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How bad is this idea: Mount winch control to engine?

Anak

Stranger
NAXJA Member
The relay module for a winch is certainly subject to vibration if mounted to the bumper. How much worse is the engine?

I ask because this is too easy. It has to be wrong.

[FONT=&quot]Remove existing bracket from relay box and reverse it. Everything bolts right up using the AC compressor bolt. The hole in the bracket is even the right size for the AC compressor bolt. However, I would probably drill a new hole 1/2" closer to the bend.

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If this is such a bad idea I can probably fab up a bracket mount welded to the battery tray (Dirtbound), so this is not an option of last resort. It is just so easy.


And it keeps all the cables nice and short. Probably about 16" to the winch:


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I did something similar to that on my YJ. Never had a problem. I also had the solenoids mounted on the firewall of another XJ I had. I never had a problem. Just keep everything properly routed. Also if you need to run longer cables go to the next larger wire gauge.


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Firewall mounted would not worry me. That is just another form of body mounted.

I am more concerned about the difference between high energy, low frequency vibrations (body mounted) vs. low energy, high frequency vibrations (engine mounted). Or some such mumbo-jumbo.

IOW, with this be the death of the coil windings? Or some other such problem?
 
Thank you for the link.

This sounds like it might actually be a viable option.
 
I think you are overthinking this.

I also think heat would be a bigger problem. If there is airflow in that area, heat should be a non-issue.
 
Not as close to the winch as the A/C compressor but I ditched the window washer bottle for my solenoid box.

So far I have had no problems and have not missed my windshield washing capabilities. Plus you could add a new body XJ style washer bottle on the fender to replace the one under the hood.

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I've got my winch solenoid box mounted to the body inside the engine compartment, which I know is not the arrangement that you're asking about. I got real tired of having to open the hood to plug in the controller cable, so I hard-wired a switch on my center console. Again, not the issue you're raising, but my unsolicited advice is that if you put the solenoid box under the hood, go ahead and deal with the controller issue at the same time by wiring a switch or moving the plug to the exterior. (Knowing you, you've probably got a plan for that already.)
 
(Knowing you, you've probably got a plan for that already.)


:D

Even have the switch from OTRATTW and the plate to go in place of the coin tray from Prime 4x4.

However, I am not going to tear into that phase until I get some of these other things wrapped up first. I have this winch mount project, frame stiffeners and an axle swap all going on at once. And it bloody keeps raining. Whisky Tango Foxtrot. This is SoCal. It is not supposed to rain in January. Who ordered all this water? :twak:
 
Engine vibration will be a harder life than body mounted. Even firm engine isolators dampen a great deal. Now whether your box vs. another brand is up to a slightly harder life is anyone's guess... I'm sure they're built pretty damn rugged. On the other hand, making a custom bracket isn't hard and it'd be a huge PITA to need the winch and find your control was failed. If it were me, I'd go to the extra effort up front to avoid that potential even though the risk is probably low.

-Joel
 
If you open that box you'll find that it's just 4 old school starter solenoids. They are pretty robust. I wouldn't worry about it the littlest bit.
 
Were those old school starter solenoids ever mounted on the engine itself?

As a GM guy I modified several of the cars in my family to use that Ford style solenoid to deal with the heat soak issues that the GM starter mounted solenoids would have. The GM solenoid was engine mounted, but it was another animal entirely. I can't recall ever seeing a Ford solenoid mounted on an engine. All I can picture in my mind have been on the fender/inner fender. But I have never been a Ford guy.

Yes, I know I am probably overthinking this. But I don't think that is a bad thing. I don't often find examples of regret for overthinking, but I have certainly seen plenty of cases of the reverse. And it doesn't cost much to do some extra thinking.
 
Were those old school starter solenoids ever mounted on the engine itself?
Not that I have seen: Inside fenders, or maybe the "firewall." I have seen different solonoids that were designed to operate on a horizontal axis, or a vertical axis.
 
Correction.

It is "CDO"

The letters are in alphabetical order, as they should be.

:twak:
 
That is a different battery switch from what I have seen. Do you have any information on the source? Or a part/model number?
BTW, your winch install is a large part of the inspiration to go this route.

The battery switch is a Blue Sea PN 9006.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Switch-Batt-Mini/dp/B005FD2PPU

The plug for the winch's remote control is located in the front bumper.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/2659762669/in/album-72157604557867782/
The cord is long enough to reach the driver's seat or for standing aside the Jeep.
In the cord, between the relay box and winch's remote plug, I added a 4-connector, male/female trailer light plug, located under the hood.
I leave it disconnected, when not in use, to prevent someone from hot wiring the winch and burning it up. All it takes is a piece of wire stuck in the two of the remote plug's holes. Kids will be kids.

For a stealth installation, it has worked well. In the nine years since it was built, not once has anyone I know about ever spotted it. When covered with the license plate, it's invisible.
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