- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Still fighting this issue. Have found two bad rear brake parts, the main one being the wire cable that pulls on the part that the brake adjust clicks against that was no longer keeping things tight (worn and stretched), and thus the keeper's were not clicking and keeping tension on bottom of the pads. That was identified when a keeper fell out out and was rattle inside the drum after a panic stop at 60 mph on the freeway to avoid IDIOTS.
Also finally welded the gauges in the upper pad rail of the front drivers side rail. Those substantially improved the braking, in fact I did 3-4 panic stops from about 50 mph and got the front two rotors up to 370 *F and the rear drums up to 170 F very quickly for the first time ever. Usually only one of four wheels was hot.
The pulsing of the brake pedal is about 70% reduced, but is still there at 20 mph with very mild application of the brakes. If I was not looking, I might not notice it.
The brakes work great at about 1.5" of pedal travel, but if I Press hard enough the pedal still travels to 1" (or less) from the floor with no extra brake action the last 1.5" of pedal travel. After the first 1" of travel, the next 2" I can toss folks out the windshield now :laugh3:, but the last 1.5" before the pedal gets 100% solid, does nothing more for the braking.
I am going try one last 4 wheel bleed again in case the knuckle gauge or mall adjusted keepers were limiting the ability to get air out of the lines. But I have little hope that will do it.
I may buy a complete MC/VB from say rock auto and try the complete swap since the VB is the only thing I have not replaced.
I still have not tried replacing the Combo valve, But I seriously doubt it is the issue. I have bled it many times. And I have not lost any brake fluid all year from the MC.
If I find air in either rear wheel cyl again, I may go buy dealer ones...
Also finally welded the gauges in the upper pad rail of the front drivers side rail. Those substantially improved the braking, in fact I did 3-4 panic stops from about 50 mph and got the front two rotors up to 370 *F and the rear drums up to 170 F very quickly for the first time ever. Usually only one of four wheels was hot.
The pulsing of the brake pedal is about 70% reduced, but is still there at 20 mph with very mild application of the brakes. If I was not looking, I might not notice it.
The brakes work great at about 1.5" of pedal travel, but if I Press hard enough the pedal still travels to 1" (or less) from the floor with no extra brake action the last 1.5" of pedal travel. After the first 1" of travel, the next 2" I can toss folks out the windshield now :laugh3:, but the last 1.5" before the pedal gets 100% solid, does nothing more for the braking.
I am going try one last 4 wheel bleed again in case the knuckle gauge or mall adjusted keepers were limiting the ability to get air out of the lines. But I have little hope that will do it.
I may buy a complete MC/VB from say rock auto and try the complete swap since the VB is the only thing I have not replaced.
I still have not tried replacing the Combo valve, But I seriously doubt it is the issue. I have bled it many times. And I have not lost any brake fluid all year from the MC.
If I find air in either rear wheel cyl again, I may go buy dealer ones...