Factory fog light switch wiring help

So my XJ never came with fog lights, but I got a panel out of another XJ that I use to have that has a switch in it for them. I would like to use this factory fog light switch to run some daylighters. I was just going to run it to the battery with a fuse and have the lights be able to come on whenever. I tried looking at the fsm to get an idea of how i could wire them up using the factory switch, im just still a little unsure. Here is what I was looking at in the fsm:



The conclusion I came to was:
1- maybe was for power
2- was the positive from the lights
3- I was unsure whether I would need to wire it to the fog light relays (if my jeep even has them? There is a plug that in my dash for for lights, but the jeep never had fog lights or a switch for them when i bought the jeep) or if this would be the positive that I could run a fused line from my battery to
4- was the ground

Anyone know if I am right in any of my assumptions or if not, how I could correctly use this switch to run my daylighters?

any help is appreciated, thanks,
Ty

***edit: just saw the sticky about posting illegal versions of fsm's. I purchased my copy (so it is not an illegal version), however I guess I'm unsure whether or not I can post that picture. If it against the rules or anything, please tell me and I will draw the schematic up in word or something and switch the pictures out. Thanks.

I'm probably wrong, but looking @ that diagram, it looks like power would go to #3, the + from the lights would go to #2 and #4 would get grounded for illumination of the switch(possibly through the dimmer) what is strange to me is that it looks like the relays are before the switch, instead of between the battery and the lights.

I could be completely missing something, as my brain is mush from some training I had today, but maybe I can give you a place to start.

I think the two relays may be to have the fog lights only enabled when a) the parking lights are lit and b) the high beams are *not* lit. You'd have to see what those BR/YL and RD/GY wires are to verify that, but I'd be willing to bet money I'm right. (vehicles equipped with fogs from the factory are required to only have the fog lights enabled when parking lights are lit or parking lights and low beams, but not high beams - and in some states they'll check for that in inspection as well.)

If you want to run daylighters, you could either reconfigure the relays to only have them active when the high beams are on or bypass the second relay completely so they could be on any time any lights are on. Or bypass both relays and just wire 'em straight up. I would definitely use a relay in between the switch and any lights though, you probably don't want 200W of power running through that switch.

You didn't post your year, but based off the pic I'm assuming 97+.

If you dig around in your dash you should find the plug for the fog light switch. IIRC it is black and there are four wires to it. Orange is the dash lights, black the ground. Violet will be your 12+, and light blue will go to your relay powering the lights. Wiring it this way you will be able to use the lights at anytime you desire just by flipping the switch. If you want the lights to come on only when you have the high beams on then you will want to use the high beam lights 12+. You can find that at the fuse block behind the passenger side kick panel. You can use either the red wire off fuse #3, or the red wire with orange tracer off fuse #16. Those are both 10A fuses and are left, and right headlights respectively.

EDIT: Sorry forgot to explain how the factory system works. The relay in the PDC (under the hood) gets it's coil side 12+ from the parking light circuit , and is grounded through the drivers side headlight. As long as the high beams are off (no 12+ on the hot side) of the lamp the current will flow through the lamp filament, and to ground. When you activate the high beams you will then have 12v on the + side of the high beams and thus on both the sides of the coil. Having 12v on both sides you don't have complete circuit turning the relay off. The 12+ for the fog lights themselves is obtained from a fuse in the PDC It then flows through the relay (high current side) where the circuit is controlled by the high beams, then back to the switch, and finely back out to the lights.

^ this EXACTLY

if you want them to only work when your headlights are on tap the lead from the instrument light fuse to the switch then to the relay then from battery to the relay to the lights.. they will work like factory except will light up with your high beams on

EDIT** damn you scooby XJ.. you posted before me LOL

thank you scooby. Thats exactly what I was looking for lol. Now i just need to get a lil time off work so I can work on it. Appreciate the help buddy

I just wired my Hella 1000's up to the OEM fog light switch (on a '98) yesterday. I'm using the Hella wiring harness which has a relay and running three wires (black, yellow, purple) into the cabin. Wired it up to the stock switch and the lights turn on and off fine, but the illuminated green LED on the rocker switch stays on permanently.

Thinking I need to switch the two 12+ wires on the Hella harness around on the switch. Suggestions?

Use a stock switch to power a standard relay and fog light wires you install yourself. If your 97-01 Cherokee was not built with optional fog lamps, adding them is not plug and play. Most of the fog lamp wire harness and the relay sockets are not there and cannot be added.

1997-2001 switch wiring should be like this -
.

I found this diagram and it helped a lot, but I'm electrically illiterate. What exactly does '12v run source' refer to? The wire coming straight from the battery or a switched 12v source like a cig lighter?

12v run source = 12 volts HOT when the key is on.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245599701&postcount=4

Use the factory pigtail for dash lights and ground on the switch, use the light blue wire on the switch to energize the relay. Pin 30 to battery, pin 87 to the lights, pin 85 to ground, pin 86 to the switch. The instructions I got with my 500s are inconsistent and unnecessarily complicated, so I can't tell you what color is which, but you shouldn't need 3 wires running into the cab.

edit- Guess Tim beat me to it.

hubs97xj said:

The instructions I got with my 500s are inconsistent and unnecessarily complicated, so I can't tell you what color is which, but you shouldn't need 3 wires running into the cab.

Click to expand...

This helps, thanks. Sounds like I have an extra wire on the Hella harness that I don't need. I had an 'aha' moment and understand better how the relay works to power the lights.

The 'switched on' power source is just to power the switch itself in order to energize the relay.

Lurch said:

I found this diagram and it helped a lot, but I'm electrically illiterate. What exactly does '12v run source' refer to? The wire coming straight from the battery or a switched 12v source like a cig lighter?

Click to expand...

depends on how you want the lights to operate. If you want them to shut off with the key, wire it to something that only comes on when the key is in the "acc" position. If you want it to only come on with other lights, wire it to the parking light circuit. If you want the lights to be able to be turned on any time, even with no key present, wire it to something that's always hot, like the yellow wire to the radio.