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1988 Renix to 1991 Chrysler conversion Renix ABS/Factory Alarm Questions

dwcjwerfner

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ottawa
Ok I have finally had enough of my Renix crap, I bought a 91 Laredo and yes now I know now I should have bought a 93 or newer Sport and I wouldn't have these problems but this is what I have to work with. I am moving the entire underhood harness as well as the fuse box and what is required to hook it all up under the dash (yes I had to pull the dash).

First of all I go to pull the harness from the Laredo to the AW4 controller through the firewall and great I have 10+ extra wires, so I follow it under the carpet and it goes to a Renix ABS controller under the back seat (right now I am hoping there is somebody who knows about this). I am obviously not using ABS and I want to get rid of all this wiring as it has nothing to plug into, of course there are also all 4 wheel connections and the connections to the pump and the actuator. So my options are to just cut all these wires off and "seal" them all up or open up the harness and remove them all which is what I am going to do. My question is is there anything else in the wiring harness that "connects" to the rest of the Chrysler system that is going to malfunction if I remove all of the ABS wiring?

Secondly because it is a Laredo it has factory alarm :cry: and what concerns me is what it will do about doors if I don't have the exact same connections as I have manual locks and that fact that I don't want to move the remote sensor in the roof, frankly I can't believe it actually still works with the remote. Does anybody know what wires I have to connect together to bypass the alarm?

Thanks in advance
dj

1988 XJ
4.0l
3-Link HP D44 Ford/Chev/Waggy Front
D44 Rear
NP231 Crawl Box
D300 Twin Stick
 
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If you got a good complete 1991 donor XJ for all the electrical for your 1988 why not swap all the harnesses from engine bay to tail lights from the 91 to the 88? I know its alot of work, but it sure sounds you have done a ton of work already....... then your 88 will be a full 1991 XJ electrically...... only thing off the top of my head in the ABS harness under the rear seat is to find and tie the 2 wires together for the e-brake indicator light on the dash to work when you pull the e-brake... also you gonna have extra wires in the 88 interiour harness that goes out to the engine bay for the abs relay yellow light and other ABS wiring....Sounds better to me to swap all the harnesses inside the XJ to 1991...then no issues with factory alarm ect..... I have a 1995 Neon for years and years as my daily beater... couple years ago the trans went out and I moved to a place that had emissions testing, I pulled off the cat, egr and alot of stuff, these cars arent worth much anyways and just to much money for a trans and the missing emmisions stuff...was gonna retire it to the crusher after 275,000 miles.... Well I found a t-boned 1998 Neon R/T with 98,000 on the clock and decent shape besides being bent in half.... I spent 2 weeks stripping the R/T to a shell, stripped the 95 to a shell and put every piece of the 98 on the 95.... now I have a completey stock 95 Neon with all 98 R/T stuff... it passed emissions, drives great, alot faster with DOHC enegine and 5 speed trans, after all said and done I spent $300.00 total... sold a ton of stuff I had left over, even repalced the timing belt, waterpump and tensioner pulley and rear main seal before I stuck in the drivetrain...... I was contemplating not to change out dash and crossbody harness, but in the end I am glad I did... since I know it is the correct harness for the rest of the car and no corners cut...... I hit the key and it fired up after all the swapping...not a lick of problems.... :)
 
I have a 91 that I am removing the abs. Years ago, I also had the factory alarm that was causing battery drain issues. I remember finding a procedure online for disabling the factory alarm module that was in the harness way up above the steering column. If the procedure isn't done correctly before it is removed, I understand that the computer will think that the car is stolen and will need to get rebooted or something at a dealership which will probably require some sort of vin authentication for the new computer. On the original thread about the abs wiring, I also will have research the best way to correctly eliminate the 20 pounds of extra wiring as I convert to the vacuum boosted conventional brakes.
 
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