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Rear Disc Brake Conversion..i know

C

Cherokeekid88

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Carolina
I know there has prolly been a few threads on this before but i really want to upgrade my brakes, they are horrible! I've seen some conversion kits from like Teraflex and they go for like 500-700 bucks and well....was wondering if you can just buy what you need to convert it over and then buy your own calipers and rotors and brake pads? cuz my drum brakes just aint cuttin it. thanks
 
yes you can, all the parts you need will come off of a zj, depending on what axel you have you may need to widen the hole, create a spacer or, they may just work, be sure to do plenty of research about this
 
It is correct that it depends on the axle but it also depends on where the parts come from. If you can find them cheap enough (the brackets from the ZJ0 then its cheap, but if not the teraflex can be cheaper. like it was in my case just cause the brackets are hard to find. look into the crown vic brakes
 
I have brackets and rotors for a setup using el dorado calipers. I am still using my calipers but got different bracket and rotors for the new axle.
TSM makes the parts I have. I'll give you the brackets and rotors for $100 plus shipping. You'll need the calipers and an e-brake cable both of an el dorado. Offer is open for anyone else that wants them, they sit in my shop and ain't moved in a bit.
...Frank
 
I am in the process of doing one now. My problen is where do I get a set of spacers? I am not sure I could trust myself to make them.
 
techno1154 said:
I am in the process of doing one now. My problen is where do I get a set of spacers? I am not sure I could trust myself to make them.
Click to expand...

I foreget to add that I am building a D44 not the CHRY 8.25
 
Use the backing plates from a D44 in a rubi. They cost about 4 bux at the dealer.


Much easier than making your own!!
 
To take up the extra thickness of the drum brake backing plate. Neededto hold the seal in and get the bearing seated in the race.
 
I bought one of these kits
( for cherokee d44) comes with everything brand new including spacer, ebrake. only minor mods of the backing plate bolt pattern ( with a round file) and minor machining of inside of rotor. you will have to get a clevis for e brake cable attachment, and get new soft brake lines. you won't find any cheaper for all brand new parts
 
XJack said:
To take up the extra thickness of the drum brake backing plate. Neededto hold the seal in and get the bearing seated in the race.
Click to expand...

No you don't. You use the Rubi retainer plates, redrill a few holes to fit, and the lip inside is the proper thickness to hold the bearing and seal right where it needs to be.

This writeup will help with the swap on a D44 - I did a lot of the preliminary work for this one and worked with the guy Kevin who did the writeup.

http://www.jeepin.com/features/cvdiscs/index.asp

I ran that setup for 30k miles and had no complaints at all.
 
OLAK said:
I bought one of these kits
( for cherokee d44) comes with everything brand new including spacer, ebrake. only minor mods of the backing plate bolt pattern ( with a round file) and minor machining of inside of rotor. you will have to get a clevis for e brake cable attachment, and get new soft brake lines. you won't find any cheaper for all brand new parts
Click to expand...


Man that is the best price I have seen to do the conversion, and all new parts.
Can you tell me why you have to file on the bolt pattern. Isn't it 5 x 4.5?
And what type of machining do you need to do to the rotor?
Thanks,
 
its the backing plate bolt pattern that is slightly off. the cherokee d44 is 2" by 3.3125. the ford explorer one is 2" by 3.5625. so you have to move each of the backing plate mounting holes outward by 1/8". about 5 minutes each hole with a round file. the center of the rotor needs to be machined about 30 thou to allow it to slip over the axle pilot. the wheel lug pattern is the same 5 x 4.5
 
vetteboy said:
No you don't. You use the Rubi retainer plates, redrill a few holes to fit, and the lip inside is the proper thickness to hold the bearing and seal right where it needs to be.

This writeup will help with the swap on a D44 - I did a lot of the preliminary work for this one and worked with the guy Kevin who did the writeup.

http://www.jeepin.com/features/cvdiscs/index.asp

I ran that setup for 30k miles and had no complaints at all.
Click to expand...

Agreed - was simply responding to the "What do you need spacers for?" I didn't see the first half of the question (where do I get spacers?)

I'm running Rubi retainer plates as well, makes life much simpler.
 
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