• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Warn Winch Solenoid(s) availability

WB9YZU

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Madison, WI
I have a M8000 with a sticking solenoid or 2. You know the symptom, hit the button to spool in and nothing happens until you give the control box a sharp rap. I've torn the box down looking for bad contacts and have searched the web for replacement parts. The Best I can find is @ Gowinch, and they want $350 for the control box.

So does anyone have a source for replacement solenoid ?
 
Try spraying contact cleaner into the moving portion of the solenoid including the contacts. More than possible is has built up some junk in there and that is impeding the slug from moving.

I specified contact cleaner as it flashes off quickly and leaves nothing behind.
 
Also,
If you haven't already, take the solenoids off the panel and clean up the connections. Brillo pad/steel wool, contact cleaner. I put a little di-electric grease on mine when I was done.

I got a Warn 8274 for free because it was "broken" 2 hours labor cleaning lugs and terminals and made new cables for it, and it works like new.
 
Last edited:
Worst case you can always buy heavy duty solenoids at any of the auto parts stores. I'm not super-knowledgeable about winches but there are basically two kinds of solenoids used AFAIK: the old ford style (60's) and the new ford style (90's). If you take one of yours off and go to a store they'll be able to match it up, probably off the top of their head.
 
Ford Starter solenoids will work in a pinch, but they are not intended for extended duty. They are only designed to pass current for 5-10 seconds to start the car. You put them in a winch and they'll melt on the first long pull.
 
Ford Starter solenoids will work in a pinch, but they are not intended for extended duty. They are only designed to pass current for 5-10 seconds to start the car. You put them in a winch and they'll melt on the first long pull.

Even the heavy duty ones?

Really wondering. I used to sell a lot of them when i was selling parts--for winches, bags, etc. The cheap ones usually came back. Never knew whether the HD ones crapped out or not.
 
Thanks for the info guys! I am surprised I didn't find those solenoids in my web search, but sometimes you just have to put in the right words ;) I believe I used the word "Contactor" instead of "Solenoid". Figures :D

Admittedly, since the control box is mostly functional, I didn't tear it down past pulling the cover, not discovering any loose connections or corrosion, and putting the cover back on.

So the Solenoids come apart EH? They appeared to be riveted together. May have to look at that too. :)
 
Even the heavy duty ones?

Really wondering. I used to sell a lot of them when i was selling parts--for winches, bags, etc. The cheap ones usually came back. Never knew whether the HD ones crapped out or not.

I never had the HD ones come back either, but the books differentiate between constant duty and momentary. Price is about 3 times higher too, but if you can find a parts guy who can still use the catalogs, any of the parts chains can order them. Also, bus repair shops and rv shops should have them on hand.
 
Thanks for the info guys! I am surprised I didn't find those solenoids in my web search, but sometimes you just have to put in the right words ;) I believe I used the word "Contactor" instead of "Solenoid". Figures :D

Admittedly, since the control box is mostly functional, I didn't tear it down past pulling the cover, not discovering any loose connections or corrosion, and putting the cover back on.

So the Solenoids come apart EH? They appeared to be riveted together. May have to look at that too. :)


Early Ford (read 1960s) starter solenoids would fail for the contact wearing out. Being the cheap sort of individual I am, I would drill out the rivets, remove the slug and the copper disk on it and remove the contacts.

I would then unbolt the disk from the slug and turn it over, turn the contacts over and reassemble the solenoid using small bolts/nuts to replace the rivets.

15 minutes to repair to solenoid and avoid paying for a replacement.

Told you I was cheap...

So, yes, you can take a shot at repairing the solenoids. What have you to lose?
 
Back
Top