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OEM Factory parts vs. Aftermarket parts

montanaman

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Western Montana
I just wanted to say that I've found some parts should be replaced with the original factory parts. I'm not saying all parts should be dealer only ... but some of them should be. These days, a lot of Jeep dealerships sell parts online for below-MSRP prices. Here's one that has a good combination of low price and low shipping: http://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/

Here's my experience:

Parking brake cables: I bought some aftermarket cables from Rock Auto, and they were terrible. The first winter on the vehicle, they froze up completely. Montana winters are 5 months of snow on the ground and often sub-zero temps. Water had gotten inside the cable housing and locked up the cable after sitting out at night. I finally broke down and bought the dealership cables and was amazed at the difference ... much better. The cables are covered in plastic before inserted into the housing, and most importantly, there were little seals on each end to prevent water/dirt from getting inside the housing with the cable. Also a heat shield for where the cable passes over the exhaust. Trouble-free performance ever since.

Thermostat: When I put in a new motor, I replaced the t-stat. My aftermarket t-stat kept the engine temp yo-yoing up and down all winter long. The t-stat would open up, and a flood of cold coolant would come into the engine and the temp gauge would take a serious dive. Then the t-stat would close up and the temp would spike ... repeat forever. Then I tried another aftermarket t-stat recommended on here, and the temp didn't bounce around because it opened a little at lower temps, but I noticed it took a lot longer for the engine to come up to operating temp ... not good. Finally, I installed the factory t-stat, and i like it. It warms up much faster, with steady temp performance.

Temp gauge sender: When I swapped my instrument panel from idiot lights to gauges, I had to replace the temp gauge sender. I tried a sender made by Nippondenso because it was cheaper (it was the one they recommended for the year of the new gauge panel), but it was way off. I replaced it with a factory sender for that same year of gauge panel, and it works perfectly.

Fan Clutch: When my 20-year old Factory fan clutch died, I replaced it with the Hayden 2625 model recommended here, and it died in about a year. Then I put on a dealership fan clutch with no problems. With the hood up, I can rev the motor with my hand and hear the fan roar like the Hayden never did.

Radiator: This is one where the aftermarket was better than the original. I upgraded my radiator with a CSF all-metal, 3-row radiator, and I'm totally happy with it. I'm pretty sure it's all brass. Definitely no plastic or aluminum. I've run it in the Mexico desert in summer at 115 degrees with zero problems. Needle almost never crossed the center line. A lot of the factory rads have plastic tanks and/or only 1 or 2 rows. I don't know if Mopar makes an all-metal 3-row, but if they do, I'm sure it costs a fortune.

A lot of the other repairs I've done with aftermarket parts have worked out fine, but I just thought I would share these experiences with you. I don't mean this as a negative post. The Naxja forum has been really helpful over the years, and I post this only because I want to return the favor in some small way.

.
 
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I have yet to buy a single dealer jeep part except for roof certs for the roof rails in 12 years. I have had many bad parts in the aftermarket, especially for my GM-Saturn and Ford, and I had to buy a Saturn dealer part and JY OEM part this year. No dealer parts for the Ford the Ford yet.

I have had the same exact experience with 2 CSF 3 row radiators on 2 renix jeeps, one is about 9 years old already. Many sources claim to sell 3 row radiators, but they are only 2 rows!!!!! You can tell by the core thickness spec!!! The 3 row is nearly 2" thick.

Great topic!!!! I have learned to be very picky about the part brand and aftermarket source!!!

How should we qualify an AC/Delco part from Rock auto? The Old Renix rigs used GM columns and who knows what else parts
 
I always buy and always recommend genuine Jeep parts. Cheap parts are cheap for a reason. Too many threads over the years detail long/frustrating/expensive searches for a mysterious "problem" that was fixed with genuine Jeep parts. I would consider ACDelco parts to be among the best replacement parts.

Something I never buy are "rebuilt" water pumps. They seem to last about 1/2 as long as the Jeep ones, so the added cost of the Jeep part is worth it.
 
Napa brand brake parts are now on my list of things to never buy again. Just got finished redoing the rotors, calipers, pads and hoses on the front of my '00. One of the pads that seats in the caliper piston had bent clips and one of the caliper pistons had a chunk breaking out of the side.

What happened to Napa? They used to have good stuff.
 
I always buy and always recommend genuine Jeep parts. Cheap parts are cheap for a reason. Too many threads over the years detail long/frustrating/expensive searches for a mysterious "problem" that was fixed with genuine Jeep parts. I would consider ACDelco parts to be among the best replacement parts.

Something I never buy are "rebuilt" water pumps. They seem to last about 1/2 as long as the Jeep ones, so the added cost of the Jeep part is worth it.

About 25 years ago I went to a dealer to get a new part becuase all the aftermarket rebuilts were crap, they told me new ones were m=no longer made NLA, so I went to a local rebuilder that did truck parts.

I also could not buy a new gas tank for my 78 Dodge wagon and had a very special high tech process done by a radiator shop that used the old gas tank to make a poly lined, inside and out side tank. Thus rebuilt.

I only use rebuilt if I must. I think our steering gear boxes are only available rebuilt?

I see no problem with after market body parts or used ones. But when I can I always use new parts, and then I am picky about the manufacturer and source. But I still use 98% non OEM-new parts due to the absurd cost at times.

I did find a Ford Tempo head lamp, new form a dealer once for less than the junk yard wanted in 1998 LOL.

I don't ALWAYS do anything LOL. But I ALWAYS consider alternatives, LMAO.:rolleyes:
 
I always buy and always recommend genuine Jeep parts. Cheap parts are cheap for a reason. Too many threads over the years detail long/frustrating/expensive searches for a mysterious "problem" that was fixed with genuine Jeep parts. I would consider ACDelco parts to be among the best replacement parts.

Something I never buy are "rebuilt" water pumps. They seem to last about 1/2 as long as the Jeep ones, so the added cost of the Jeep part is worth it.

I have found rebuilt water pumps to be lucky to last 3 months, a good Bosch Jeep water pump will last for a decade or more. Durajunk new water pumps for jeeps are lucky to survive 6 months.
 
Napa brand brake parts are now on my list of things to never buy again. Just got finished redoing the rotors, calipers, pads and hoses on the front of my '00. One of the pads that seats in the caliper piston had bent clips and one of the caliper pistons had a chunk breaking out of the side.

What happened to Napa? They used to have good stuff.

I wonder the same thing about Autozone. I never had problems with their parts until about 10 years ago, then they gotten progressively worse since then, but so have all the other store parts.

I got a brand new jeep brake drum from the Zone in 2008 and the drum was a 1/8" off center on the drum surface, how could an inspection operation or machinist not see that??? That was the first time I had a problem. The next one on the shelf was perfect and 8 years is still working great after 80,000 miles.

By biggest fear with huge dealer prices is are they starting to put China junk in the boxes now as well.

What about parts from our Jeep 4x4 parts sponsors here? I never anything bad about their parts? In fact I fixed an 89 transmission leak thanks to one of them being the only place at the time that I could find the tail cone bushing and shaft seal, about 6-7 years ago.
 
Napa's echlin electrical parts are manufactured by BWD/Standard/Intermotor parts.. BWD's quality has dropped off in the last five years or so.
 
Napa's echlin electrical parts are manufactured by BWD/Standard/Intermotor parts.. BWD's quality has dropped off in the last five years or so.


I have noticed that the Murray T-stats are made in Israel and they are top notch!!!! Running them on 3 jeeps (one is a nissan diesel engine), a Ford and a Saturn. Never had one fail yet.

O'Rielys and Autozone have been carrying them the last time I bought them. But I had to ask for them by brand.
 
Just gonna revive this old thread to add another experience.

Heater Valve: I replaced my heater valve a while back with aftermarket (Four Seasons brand, but all the aftermarket valves are the same). It was total shite. The valve never flowed well, even when opened up as much as possible, and the heat was mediocre during the worst of the Montana sub-zero winter temps. Then I noticed it leaking after about 6 months. Total Chinese crap garbage -- waste of my time & money.

A Naxja member was giving away some old parts, and I got his heater valve for the $ cost of shipping + extra that I added. I thought it would be OEM, but it turned out to also be aftermarket, and the little vacuum motor wasn't holding vacuum at all. So that was a bust.

So ... I broke down and bought an OEM Mopar valve (PN 56005900) from https://www.moparwholesaleparts.com and just installed it today. The heat is very hot again ... huge difference. The build quality is much higher too. The vacuum motor is metal casing instead of plastic, and the whole thing is just more solid and tight. I push in the rod and hold my finger on the vacuum fitting and the rod stays in rock solid. Take my finger off and it pops back out again. Just how it is supposed to.

Water Pump: I replaced my water pump about 2 years ago with an AC/Delco pump from Rock Auto. The one I got was really good. Very heavy, very tight on the spin, and well-machined surfaces where the hoses slip on. I'm very happy with the one I got. But today I looked at the images on Rock Auto, and I noticed the AC/Delco pumps are much cheaper-looking now. No machining where the hose connects, which means trying to seal the hose against a textured cast steel surface. I'm afraid AC/Delco is going downhill, racing the Chinese to the bottom.

I swear ... I do backflips now trying to stay away from Chinese Junk. It's the worst crap in the world ... it's like they don't even do a simple test of their products before putting them on the market. I sure as hell don't want that garbage on my XJ.
 
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Now you tell me, weeks after after I bought 2 of them :( , one for a spare and one for the 87 jeep I am prepping for DD use.

"heater valve a while back with aftermarket (Four Seasons brand, but all the aftermarket valves are the same)" " It was total shite"

I may just reuse the old one since it is still OK.
 
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What year was yours? Odd, that site says it only fits 93-96 jeeps?

https://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-control-valve-56005900

Just gonna revive this old thread to add another experience.

Heater Valve: I replaced my heater valve a while back with aftermarket (Four Seasons brand, but all the aftermarket valves are the same). It was total shite. The valve never flowed well, even when opened up as much as possible, and the heat was mediocre during the worst of the Montana sub-zero winter temps. Then I noticed it leaking after about 6 months. Total Chinese crap garbage -- waste of my time & money.

A Naxja member was giving away some old parts, and I got his heater valve for the $ cost of shipping + extra that I added. I thought it would be OEM, but it turned out to also be aftermarket, and the little vacuum motor wasn't holding vacuum at all. So that was a bust.

So ... I broke down and bought an OEM Mopar valve (PN 56005900) from https://www.moparwholesaleparts.com and just installed it today. The heat is very hot again ... huge difference. The build quality is much higher too. The vacuum motor is metal casing instead of plastic, and the whole thing is just more solid and tight. I push in the rod and hold my finger on the vacuum fitting and the rod stays in rock solid. Take my finger off and it pops back out again. Just how it is supposed to.

Water Pump: I replaced my water pump about 2 years ago with an AC/Delco pump from Rock Auto. The one I got was really good. Very heavy, very tight on the spin, and well-machined surfaces where the hoses slip on. I'm very happy with the one I got. But today I looked at the images on Rock Auto, and I noticed the AC/Delco pumps are much cheaper-looking now. No machining where the hose connects, which means trying to seal the hose against a textured cast steel surface. I'm afraid AC/Delco is going downhill, racing the Chinese to the bottom.

I swear ... I do backflips now trying to stay away from Chinese Junk. It's the worst crap in the world ... it's like they don't even do a simple test of their products before putting them on the market. I sure as hell don't want that garbage on my XJ.
 
What year was yours? Odd, that site says it only fits 93-96 jeeps?

https://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-control-valve-56005900

Yeah ... that's weird. The first thing I did was look it up in my 1991 Jeep factory parts manual. It gave me that part number. Then I did a search for that number online and bought it. It was a perfect replacement for my existing valve. I'm 99.9% sure the year grouping is '91-'96. There are sellers on Amazon and eBay selling this Mopar part number, and they all say it fits '91 to '96. I don't know why the Mopar websites say 93-96, because it's definitely the right part for my '91.

Your '87 takes a different valve -- only 3 hose connections, instead of 4. I went to the Rock Auto website, and looked at a pic for the Four Seasons valve for '87, and it didn't look bad. All-metal construction at least. I hope it works well for you. If you decide to keep and install it, let us know how it performs on extremely cold days. As for me, I'd prefer the 30-year-old OEM valve over a new imported replacement.
 
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I had a feeling this would start the whole "keep/discard the heater valve" debate LOL.

Ok ... this is off-topic, but here's why I decided to keep using a valve. I don't have AC, and Montana summers can get over 100*. I understand very well how the air flow schematic works on our rigs, but even though there is no air flow through my heater core when the heat system is turned off, that would still be an extremely hot item inside my cab on my side of the firewall. No matter how well it's blocked off, it can only add to the temp inside. There's not much insulation around this thing. When it's 100* outside, I just prefer to have a cool heater core inside my jeep 2 feet from my legs, instead of one that's 210*. If I had AC, I wouldn't care so much.

Just my 2 cents worth.
 
I had a feeling this would start the whole "keep/discard the heater valve" debate LOL.

Ok ... this is off-topic, but here's why I decided to keep using a valve. I don't have AC, and Montana summers can get over 100*. I understand very well how the air flow schematic works on our rigs, but even though there is no air flow through my heater core when the heat system is turned off, that would still be an extremely hot item inside my cab on my side of the firewall. No matter how well it's blocked off, it can only add to the temp inside. There's not much insulation around this thing. When it's 100* outside, I just prefer to have a cool heater core inside my jeep 2 feet from my legs, instead of one that's 210*. If I had AC, I wouldn't care so much.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Agreed.

I've put a NAPA Premium Gold battery (great battery BTW) and a NAPA fan clutch into my rig. Honestly though, I think the last fan clutch just stopped working because the bimetallic strip was full of grease and crap which prevented it from expanding and contracting properly. *shrug* That was probably a year or more ago. No issues with it since. I've been using a Stant thermostat and cap for probably over two years now and they both work great. I think the only parts I've gone to O'reilly's for have been battery cables, starters, clutch kit, some brake parts, a CKP sensor, a blower switch (lasted about a year before it cooked itself again. NAPA Echlin one in it now) and a slave/master cylinder system. The main reason I went to O'reilly's is because my buddy used to work there and would hook me up with the military discount even though I'm technically a vet. :D I won't even mess around with VatoZone or Advance, and I've started to move away from O'reilly's these days too. Everything else has been NAPA, dealership, or aftermarket stuff.
 
Ah, did not know the newer ones had 4 tubes. Yes mine has three tubes. My 85 diesel has a hand operated in and out Brass home depot gate valve under the hood, LOL. Super simple, LOL.

I looked at my new four seasons 3 tube Renix heater coolant feed Vacuum valve, and it looks great, and works fine using your tests, but it is plastic on the valve body, and hard to tell it is plastic, looks like metal. It blends in with the tube so well it looks like one metal part, tube and valve. Only place I see a possible issue is the shaft seal on the operator arm. But if they used a compressed o'ring on the shaft it may out live me? The OEM is probably the same on that seal.

You had me worried. The flow on mine is awesome, just blowing into it.... And the vacuum holds fine.

Yeah ... that's weird. The first thing I did was look it up in my 1991 Jeep factory parts manual. It gave me that part number. Then I did a search for that number online and bought it. It was a perfect replacement for my existing valve. I'm 99.9% sure the year grouping is '91-'96. There are sellers on Amazon and eBay selling this Mopar part number, and they all say it fits '91 to '96. I don't know why the Mopar websites say 93-96, because it's definitely the right part for my '91.

Your '87 takes a different valve -- only 3 hose connections, instead of 4. I went to the Rock Auto website, and looked at a pic for the Four Seasons valve for '87, and it didn't look bad. All-metal construction at least. I hope it works well for you. If you decide to keep and install it, let us know how it performs on extremely cold days. As for me, I'd prefer the 30-year-old OEM valve over a new imported replacement.
 
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