• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

What is your " To Do List" before SF2012?

Be nice to the new guys.

DJ, Sierra Fest is an annual trip that we do in the Sierra Chapter. It usually consists of about 30 rigs that meet at the base of the Deer Valley trail to camp and wheel. It is a really good time and great excuse to get out of the house and wheel a couple of trails. This year we will run the first portion of the Deer Valley trail (my personal favorite) and Slickrock.

Most people get up there on Friday afternoon and setup camp (we don't break camp until Sunday). There is usually a Friday night run up to the top of Deer Valley. Then on Saturday we will run Slickrock trail which is only a few miles away. On Saturday night there is a BBQ dinner and a raffle. On Sunday we break camp and either go wheel another trail or just head home. Some guys show up on Weds or Thurs to get some extra camping time. I'll probably be going up on Thurs but Weds is possible.

Feel free to send me a PM if you have any more questions.

Josh
 
Last edited:
In his defense he is from the Red River chapter. Meaning, he doesn't know what Sierrafest is, but he did click the Sierrafest forum.............

i know, i was just busting his chops. it's all in fun. :eeks1:
hopefully he can join the party, sierrafest is may favorite run of the year!
 
Looks like I might still have stock geared axles under my rig still when Sierrafest rolls around. :( D30/ 29spline 8.25. I picked up an aussie locker for the front, but dont wanna waste my time throwing it in a stocked geared disco D30. I do have a d35 with chromos and a lsd....hmmm..... I would almost perfer to run open then a d35 haha. Unless I mounted on my 31s for the trip..
 
you should throw the aussie in real quick . it'll be fine with stock gears. allen runs it with 37s on stock shafts, so you should be fine. a huge difference with a flocked front. i thought it was in the reqs that you cant run a d35 ? or was that last years con run?
 
Well it looks like the rig is ready to go, now just pack it all up & some gas. We will see you all Friday afternoon.
 
I guess I'll be doing a little more work on mine. Tried to get a frontend alignment and found a few issues.

One of the new chevy tre's is loose and needs replaced.

I made my trackbar with Currie Johnny Joints...wrong way to go. They flex under load and cause a deflection similar to bump-steer, without the bumps. It just decides it wants to go right or left on a whim when traveling on a straight stretch. Corners load the ends one way or the other so it handles turns just fine. So I need to get rid of the Currie's and go to heims instead. I should have listened to Jes and started with them instead of the Currie's. I was hoping for a little less road noise. Oh well, live and learn.

My steering box has a sloppy sector shaft..no surprise there. The steering shaft is getting worn out at the slip area, no surprise there either.

It's driveable so there isn't anything that will keep me from goin to SF. But still have stuff to do to get a good tight steering Jeep again. Luckily the alignment shop told me he wouldn't waste my money tring to align it. So he gave me the list of stuff to fix and said he'd align it after I get that done.
 
I made my trackbar with Currie Johnny Joints...wrong way to go. They flex under load and cause a deflection similar to bump-steer, without the bumps. It just decides it wants to go right or left on a whim when traveling on a straight stretch. Corners load the ends one way or the other so it handles turns just fine. So I need to get rid of the Currie's and go to heims instead. I should have listened to Jes and started with them instead of the Currie's. I was hoping for a little less road noise. Oh well, live and learn.

unless there is something wrong with your JJs, the bump-steer is not from them. a good JJ does not have any slop in it.

pics of your setup would be helpful
 
unless there is something wrong with your JJs, the bump-steer is not from them. a good JJ does not have any slop in it.

pics of your setup would be helpful

That's what I figured, and the reason I went that route. But, while sitting on the alignment rack they had me watch while they cranked the wheel back and forth, and you could see both jj's deflecting as the wheel was moved back and forth. Both jj's are new, shipped directly from Currie and have less than 300 miles on them since I put them on this axle. It doesn't follow groves in the road and I can hit bumps/dips in the road at speed and it doesn't get any bump-steer from that. It's hard to tell from the poor pic, but the tb and drag link are parallel. The tb bracket on the frame is braced and does not move at all. The bolt at each end of the tb are of the proper size (7/16" grade 8) with no slop there. The only movement noted was from the jj's and an up/down play from the left tre on the tierod. :dunno:

CIMG1465.jpg


CIMG1463.jpg
 
well, your TB is considerably shorter than your DL, which will give you some darting and bumpsteer. but you will probably only notice that when the suspension is cycling fully.
also, the play in the TRE is not good and replacing that will go a long way to helping.
make sure your camber is within spec as well.

as far as the JJs go, that is not something that should be happening. make sure that you are not pre-loading the johnny joints, at ride height, you should be able to loosen the bolts and turn them by hand. if not, then you need to re-center the axle with the springs off, your control arms may need to be adjusted. once the axle is centered, then adjust your TB until the bolts go through the holes and there is no pre-load on the joints.

even heims will wear out if you put pre-load on them like that.

if you have worn them out, all it takes to rebuild them is a piece of allthread, some sockets, a couple nuts, and replacement bushing halves from currie.
 
I just need the throw on the SOLID Diff covers and I am ready...... well there is a lot more I would love to do but at some point I need to get out there and learn how to wheel better.
 
gotta get my registration back from the DMV, theyve had my $$$ for a bit now but still no mail. big surprise, even mail for the DMV takes 5x longer than it should :banghead:
 
Got my new tre today. As usual the service at WFO Concepts is incredible. One call to them yesterday and they had the new one on it's way the same day with a return shipping label included in the package. Hopefully at least my tierod and drag links will be tight.
 
I need to get my winch installed. No clue how. The shop that is supposed to install it has been too busy to fit me in. (I'm welding a winch plate to the front bumper)

-Reinstall my mechanical fan, the e-fan setup is not reliable enough
-Maybe change my trans fluid
-Lube suspension joints
-Maybe change rear brake pads
 
Just got my SOLID Differential Covers and I need to install them. What gear oil should I use? Thinking 75-90 but I have never changed it before. I have a Truetrac so I don't need an additive.
Yes, I have read some posts on the subject but there were no definitive conclusion that struck me as being correct.
 
paint new roll cage stuff.
maybe pull doors off, maybe not
raise rear shock mounts to accommodate new rear shocks.
hi lift and shovel/axe mounts on the cage somewhere on the roof
 
Just got my SOLID Differential Covers and I need to install them. What gear oil should I use? Thinking 75-90 but I have never changed it before. I have a Truetrac so I don't need an additive.
Yes, I have read some posts on the subject but there were no definitive conclusion that struck me as being correct.

Its a helical type limited slip, no additive needed. Generally if you hear otherwise its from someone who thinks all limited slip diffs are viscous type.
 
Back
Top