• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

AW4 Solenoid Replacement write-up (no 56k)

I sold a set from a 92 to a guy who installed them in a 98. The mounting bracket looked slightly different but it bolted up just fine. He commented that he had to plug in the electrical connector before bolting it into place. The dual-solenoid setup is really from a different vehicle altogether which uses the same solenoids but the mounting bracket is different - I think for that one they give you the correct brackets (more like hold-downs versus the oem having the brackets tacked onto the solenoid body).
 
Well I got the 3 free solenoids.

I replaced solenoid b and it didn't change a damn thing! :gonnablow

I thought about replacing all 3 since I was in there, but only replaced what I thought was solenoid b. I don't know how old the free solenoids are, so didn't want to replace the ones that were good. I don't know if they were not the right ones, or not good or wtf.

Want to set this jeep on fire right now.
 
You're right. I did see these....

Original_MudButt said:
FYI.... From the service manual.


CHECKING VALVE BODY SOLENOID
With oil pan removed, disconnect electrical connector from
valve body solenoid. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between valve
body solenoid electrical terminal and solenoid mounting bracket.
Replace valve body solenoid if resistance is not 11-15 ohms.
Click to expand...

lawsoncl said:
It's much easier to check them by measuring at the transmission computer wiring harness. That might catch a wiring issue between the computer and the solenoid as well. If they measure bad there, then its time to pull the pan..
Click to expand...
It does not say how to check post 98 though, so I guess I will take a shot at testing the tcm, before I drop the pan again.
 
I think the 98+ should be the same testing procedure. You can test it directly through the TCM harness. Takes about 10 seconds. I'm not sure on this year, but on earlier models, you can also test it from a connector at the firewall, too.

Do you have a DMM you can test the 2 solenoids you still have?
 
bigalpha said:
I think the 98+ should be the same testing procedure. You can test it directly through the TCM harness. Takes about 10 seconds. I'm not sure on this year, but on earlier models, you can also test it from a connector at the firewall, too.

Do you have a DMM you can test the 2 solenoids you still have?
Click to expand...
I'm going to buy an Equus 3320 from wally world today so I can test them. Never used one before, so worried I don't diagnose it correctly, but I'm going to try.

How would I go buy testing one that's out of the pan? Run a wire to battery, and a ground?
 
There's 2 tests. One test measures the resistance inside the solenoid. I believe this is the most common way to find one that is FUBAR (if the resistance is too high/low). To be honest, I can't remember what parts of the solenoid you test at, but you can always poke and prod it until you get a reading.

I haven't heard of anyone actually activating it via battery but I think it's something you could do. Not sure if there is any danger in frying the solenoid, but I wouldn't think so.

I'm sure that lawsoncl will chip in again - he seems to be a transmission expert and helped me a lot during my woes. You could also try searching my older threads.
 
Hopefully. This is really becoming a nightmare. I was hoping since the code said solenoid b, it was as simple as that - that's what the codes are for right?

Jumping between solenoids and tcu, as well as other culprits is a pita.

btw, when I was in the tranny. Solenoid a & b, both said "rostra" on them. So they were probably replaced at some point I think. Leads me to believe more problems.
 
if i were in your position, I would start off by testing the TCM and all the pins. That will get you much closer.
 
All you need to do to measure the solenoids is set the DMM for resistance (20 ohm or 200 ohm scale) and measure from the solenoid wire to a good ground. Should be in the 11 to 15 ohm range as noted. If it's an intermittent failure that you can feel, wait till it starts acting up and then measure, then measure again when it goes away.
 
kastein said:
All you need to do to measure the solenoids is set the DMM for resistance (20 ohm or 200 ohm scale) and measure from the solenoid wire to a good ground. Should be in the 11 to 15 ohm range as noted. If it's an intermittent failure that you can feel, wait till it starts acting up and then measure, then measure again when it goes away.
Click to expand...

Right - this is when you're measuring on the harness. When you measure the solenoid when it's not hooked up to anything (e.g. on your kitchen table), you can measure just the solenoid.
 
kastein said:
All you need to do to measure the solenoids is set the DMM for resistance (20 ohm or 200 ohm scale) and measure from the solenoid wire to a good ground. Should be in the 11 to 15 ohm range as noted. If it's an intermittent failure that you can feel, wait till it starts acting up and then measure, then measure again when it goes away.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Will give that a shot.
bigalpha said:
Right - this is when you're measuring on the harness. When you measure the solenoid when it's not hooked up to anything (e.g. on your kitchen table), you can measure just the solenoid.
Click to expand...
No power required to measure solenoid?

I appreciate your guys' help on this.
 
When you measure the resistance of the circuit inside the solenoid, it doesn't require power. In fact, I believe you're not supposed to try to measure resistance on a 'live' line.
 
Yeah, measuring resistance on a live wire is a good way to get a worthless reading or (worse, on an analog meter) destroy the meter.

If you want to measure current draw (probably a good idea if checking resistance comes up good and it still acts up) you would put the meter in line with the solenoid on the 10 amp scale.
 
Thanks guys. I'll get the meter after work and test the spares I have and see if I can figure out how to read it. If I can, then I'll try the tcu, and from there, drop the pan if necessary.
 
I know a guy at jeep, so stopped by to put on scan tool. Said codes were gone. Kickdown cable was a little loose. Adjusted that, then the jeep started driving fine. Took for a test drive and went back into what I think is 4th gear, and made a 'clunk'. Did not want to take off in drive after that. Got back to his shop, and when we put in drive, could hear some grinding underneath. He says he thinks it's mechanical and clutches are slipping.

I've only had jeep 2 weeks and have driven it minimally. I noticed once I got speed going, over 30 mph, the tranny shifts fine and will even downshift. I did not go buy meter to test tcm. Not sure if it will help now, since I could hear gears or something grinding in there.
 
Re-check the cable.

How did the fluid look when you drained it out? I have a hard time believing that it's bad gears - these trans' are ridiculously rugged. I suggest buying a cheapo meter and testing the circuit at the TCM
 
Also, how does it shift if you disconnect the TCM? That will generally rule out electrical vs. mechanical problems
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Transmission Not Shifting Past First Gear
Replies
2
Views
68
CBJeeper
C
R
Bound up torque converter. Aw4 pump replacement
2
Replies
21
Views
3K
RCP Phx
R
J
AW4 Problem shifting first to second when hot
Replies
2
Views
1K
cruiser54
C
A
Rough idle & CEL with no codes?
Replies
10
Views
3K
alopeks
A
my2monkeys
aw4 torque conv. clunknoise when out of trans. held in hands?
Replies
0
Views
45
my2monkeys
my2monkeys
Back
Top