WJ Conversion

Getting ready to start my WJ knuckle/brake/OTK steering conversion.

I'm planning on using the RuffStuff builder kit with 1 ton Chevy misalignment ends and high angle ends for the pitman arm.

I have a Rubicon Express frame side track bar bracket and a RuffStuff axle side offset track bar bracket.

Beyond those parts, I have:

JKS flange spacers
RuffStuff weld in taper bungs
New 2001 hub bearings
new rotors/pads
New WJ Spicer ball joints
Rebuilt Akebono calipers

I'm expecting to have to drill the rotors for 5x4.5 bolt pattern but otherwise, I can't think of anything I'm missing.

Anyone see anything glaringly wrong with the above plan of action? Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Colin

Iron Rock sells pre-drilled rotors for this swap

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10375.html

I was looking at those. Thanks for the advice.

I have a set of new rotors I planned to drill. I'm not concerned with drilling the rotors, I just want to ensure they space right without having to run spacers on the calipers.

I'd suggest hitting up stinkyfab racing as they have all the parts and great people to talk to about planning the wj swap. Plus they're a vendor here


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Checked out Stinkyfab - I placed an order for their sway bar relocation brackets and drop brackets and a drilled pitman arm.

Normally I would have made something myself, but with a new kid, free time is at a premium and these items seem like they'll solve some issues quicker than I would on my own.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Use off set tie rod or hiems or you will have interference problems

I went with Chevy offset 1-ton and a high angle end for the pitman arm.

I run 16" Rubicon wheels so I'm hoping clearance wont be an issue.

Looking like I'm going to tear into it this weekend so we'll see...

Might want to hit up Andy @ Ironman4x4fab.com he is a sponsor of the club and has extensive experience with a wj swap.

Nvd

Getting started keeps getting delayed with other projects and the kiddo, but I finally got around to drilling the knuckles.

I drilled the tie rod holes to 7/8" and will be using the Ruff Stuff split inserts. I drilled the drag link hole to 1" and will be using a Ruff Stuff weld in insert on the knuckle side.

I ended up checking into Stinkyfab racing at the recommendation of Demonoid369 and ordered a pitman arm that is pre-tapered for a 1-ton end. This way I don't have to drill and weld an insert into it.

I went with the taper drilled pitman arm for a few reasons. Mainly speed, convenience and a few reputable sources suggested not using an insert on the pitman arm due to the varying angles and stress and the lack of material left after drilling for the insert.


I was getting ready to throw the knuckles in the BBQ grill to heat them to prep for welding, but I ran out of propane and the wife was home so I wasn't able to sneak them in the oven.

I'll pick up more gas tomorrow and burn in the JKS spacers and drag link insert. While out, I'll grab some sand to drop the knuckles in so they cool uniformly.

Note on the JKS spacers - I wish they wouldn't paint them so I didn't have the wire wheel it all off to prep for welding. JKS recommends welding the part, so I'm not sure why they paint them..? Maybe so they don't rust before the customer has a chance to use them.

That's basically why they paint them. It's dumb but keeps people from composing about rusty parts lol
I'm glad to see you're getting this going.
I still want to do the wj swap on mine but I'm not sure how a warn hub kit would work out with it.


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Started burning in the spacers and ran out of wire 3/4 of the way through hub number one.

Had to dump the pre-heated hubs into the sand bucket without completing the job.

Sooner or later, this will get done!

No pictures? How did you preheat them? How much heat?

I've never had to preheat them. they get sandwiched between the unit bearing and spacer, they barely even need to be welded. I just stitch weld it and forget it. Never had an issue.

I bolied mine in. Not with the unit bearings. Preheated them to 350. Welded and peened them. I let them cool in a bucket of dry sand. Over kill? Yes.

Also painted them with VHT

Ghost said:

No pictures? How did you preheat them? How much heat?

Click to expand...

No pictures yet. I might take a few once I start tearing down the axle and getting some more substantial work knocked out.

I used my BBQ grill to preheat the knuckles to 450 for about 45 minutes. Then I moved them from the deck to the garage with a welding glove praying I wouldn't drop them.

I looked around online and saw that people were having a hard time sourcing the longer unit hub bolts. I grabbed at set at pick-n-pull but in case anyone else comes across this issue; Parkrose Hardware on Sandy Blvd has them.

I got 6 10.9 grade, M12-1.75 90mm bolts with a partially threaded shank and high-torque flange. Basically the exact bolts Jeep used from the factory for $3.57 a piece.

I was totally content using the used bolts from pick-n-pull, but for under $22.00, I figured why not, I'm replacing most everything else anyway.

The other snag that came up - Autozone doesn't have any ball joint presses for rent currently...

Got the knuckles welded and painted.

Installed a steel steering box spacer

Installing the Stinkyfab sway bar drop brackets tomorrow and possibly burning in the JKS mini skids for the lower control arm brackets.

I have IRO upper control arm bushing replacements joints to install too. I just need a bushing press and no Autozone in the area has one available.

I'm thinking of trying my luck with the Harbor Freight item for lack of a better option.

Got an 01' Durango master cylinder to toss in.

I'm thinking I might do a Durango steering box while I have everything apart. Not having to pull the Pitman arm on my XJ box will be a definite bonus! I tried getting it off about a year ago and it wouldn't budge before it broke my Pitman arm puller.

I wouldn't go Durango box.