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Brake caliper seizes even after all new replacement parts.

Intellect

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tampa Florida
Driver front caliper locked up a few weeks ago.. replaced with new calipers, pads, and now drivers is locked up AGAIN. Pulls opposite way.. driver side steel rim is hot as a frying pan... Smells on driver side... So before i warranty out the driver side caliper and it go bad AGAIN, is there a reason this side keeps locking up??, Even with new calipers?

The brake lines are newer under 1200 miles. I did the 90s truck lines when i relifted to 5.5" back in Jan 2017. (Brand New napa)

Should i say screw it and just warranty driver caliper and buy a new driver line? I know you should always do calipers in pairs, but think its okay to just do drivers since its within like 300 miles?


Other info, before the caliper locks up, the jeep brakes squeel as if the pads are low (which they are not) for a few miles. So i sort of get a heads up lol, it did this before the new calipers too.


Ive done a few brake jobs and am not shy to them. Ive even done masters and boosters, i know steps and procedures, thus being why im so stumped, im mentally writing it off as faulty parts, but whats the odds.

In the end, just replace driver caliper and line?
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I always scrub clean the pistons with scotch pad when rebuilding. Any buildup on the od will cause excess friction and thus drag the brake. Also, even if the pistons are cleaned, if there is any pitting on the od (this happens on ss pistons), this will cause binding too. Ceramic pistons are great for this reason, but your Jeep probably has ss (I didn't see your vehicle information). Reman calipers always have old pistons, this is why I always rebuild the calipers and usually buy new pistons.
 
I have had new calipers from Napa that the piston rock over to the side and caused the same issue. So yes I would start with a new calipers.
Another cause can be groves worn into your knuckles from the brake pads. Easiest fix for that is to weld them and grind it smooth
 
I used the Chevy/GMC front brake lines for a while, and honestly think they were largely responsible for absolutely terrible braking performance. I ended up replacing them with stainless lines when I went Black Magic, so I could absolutely be mistaken.

My theory is that the banjo bolt block has either too small a diameter hole, or is not the same thickness as stock (possibly causing the copper gaskets to end up blocking the hole in the banjo bolt?). Definitely a long shot, but if your knuckles look good (as mentioned above), you might consider buying some proper SS lines.
 
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