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1996 Cherokee Country DD/WW build (infancy)

Y

YoungAndJeepin

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Nor Cal
So I bought my 96 Cherokee Country about 3 months ago for $1700. It was not well taken care of as the radiator fluid was full on brown, the spark plugs were all bridged, both pinion seals were leaking, the air filter was caked, and so on. However, the motor seems to run strong at 181k. Also, it had four different tires, 1 of which being slightly bigger than the rest. The 3 smaller tires were all bald and ready to blow :nono:. I had to drop $400 in new wrangler radials from wally world in 235/75/15. Door dings all around, bent in rear bumper, and more-stained-than-not interior but otherwise looks pretty good.

Specs:
1996 Country package
Power everything except seats, Heat, AC
Not sure if factory tow package, but it has one.
Dana 30/35 3.55
AW4
4.0 HO
235/75/15 Wrangler Radials
Red and tan/gold exterior with tan interior with the faux wood trim :patriot:
Chrome exterior trim (handles, grille, bumpers)
181k Miles
Stock Suspension (leaves literally flat and probably bent opposite on bumps)

This is my prime ride to school and work. I plan to build it up averagely and offroad when I can.

2013-11-12_14-42-19_554_zpsgkuyykjq.jpg
 
I've performed many tune up items such as
Spark plugs: champions
Air filter and Oil filter: Fram
Real pinion seal and diff cover seal
Right rear window operation fixed
And of course a good bath in the mud
2013-11-27_13-01-27_109_zpspfydizqu.jpg

2013-11-29_12-35-23_33_zpssqbrteyi.jpg

2013-11-19_16-10-12_0_zpsngi8cgqb.jpg
 
I really need shackle relocation brackets. My shackles hit the front of the mount pretty much on any bump as the leaf uncompresses and makes an ugly noise.
Looking at the ones by H.D. offroad for 140 shipped
http://www.hdoffroadengineering.com/products/xj-shackle-relocation-kit

But i should probably get a new radiator first (i have a pretty bad leak on the end cap seam)
I also have driveline vibes at 25-30 mph so i will need to do an SYE with front driveshaft soon.
 
If you plan on keeping it, spend some extra and get a full metal radiator like CSF. I switched to CSF in my 1996 that had over heating issues and never looked back. Stock xj radiators dont seem to hold up with heat all that well. But they are fairly expensive. They work great though
 
highspeed said:
If you plan on keeping it, spend some extra and get a full metal radiator like CSF. I switched to CSF in my 1996 that had over heating issues and never looked back. Stock xj radiators dont seem to hold up with heat all that well. But they are fairly expensive. They work great though
Click to expand...

I just ordered a 3 core all aluminum radiator off of ebay for 160 shipped. Not sure on the brand. It says t here is a tranny cooler built in as well. Here is the link


http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROWS-CORE...ep|Model:Cherokee&hash=item1e86023333&vxp=mtr
 
YoungAndJeepin said:
I just ordered a 3 core all aluminum radiator off of ebay for 160 shipped. Not sure on the brand. It says t here is a tranny cooler built in as well. Here is the link


http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROWS-CORE...ep|Model:Cherokee&hash=item1e86023333&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

This looks like one of the made in china radiators that all seem to be made by the same factory in china. The overall quality used to be pretty poor but I have seen write-ups saying they have stepped up their game recently. I have used these and can say they work very well. You do need to pay close attention to anti-corrosion measures though. I suggest using Evans waterless coolant. I have had good luck with that and it eliminates corrosion issues.
 
jeeperjohn said:
This looks like one of the made in china radiators that all seem to be made by the same factory in china. The overall quality used to be pretty poor but I have seen write-ups saying they have stepped up their game recently. I have used these and can say they work very well. You do need to pay close attention to anti-corrosion measures though. I suggest using Evans waterless coolant. I have had good luck with that and it eliminates corrosion issues.
Click to expand...

Yeah im sure its a cheapo but it is all aluminum , i can probably find something to pour in it and let sit for a while before install to add corrosion protection. The radiator should be here in a few days and I will post pics and info on the fitment and such.
 
fitment is alright besides the transmission cuplet style line , cut the cuplet off and just used rubber hose and clamps. no more leaks but still runs at 210 , any suggestions as to why it runs this hot?
 
I learned something new today. I thought 96 was the cut over year from the Dana 35, to the Chry 8.25. I just bought a 96 a couple of weeks ago that has the 8.25. Interesting.
 
jb98xj said:
I learned something new today. I thought 96 was the cut over year from the Dana 35, to the Chry 8.25. I just bought a 96 a couple of weeks ago that has the 8.25. Interesting.
Click to expand...

not sure but i have a 35c rear. i really wish it was a 8.25 but i have heard the 35's are well enough for 33 in tires if you dont thrash it, so unless i find a chrysler cheap enough im keeping the 35
 
YoungAndJeepin said:
not sure but i have a 35c rear. i really wish it was a 8.25 but i have heard the 35's are well enough for 33 in tires if you dont thrash it, so unless i find a chrysler cheap enough im keeping the 35
Click to expand...


That info is false. I've seen dana35s brake on 235s in the dirt. Hell I blew one up on the freeway driving home from work. Not saying it won't last for a short while but it will leave you stranded at the worst possible time. 8.25s are cheep. Find one and swap it I a few hours.
 
GordoSmasho said:
That info is false. I've seen dana35s brake on 235s in the dirt. Hell I blew one up on the freeway driving home from work. Not saying it won't last for a short while but it will leave you stranded at the worst possible time. 8.25s are cheep. Find one and swap it I a few hours.
Click to expand...

Yes I was on the edge about 33's and I've now decided to go for 31's. Am shooting for 31. 10.5 15 hankook dynapro atm rf10's. I don't need anything crazy , plus I'm in love with the tread pattern on those. Also going with the 31s, I don't need to regear both axles costing 500+ with my own labor. and I wouldn't want to risk messing up brand new gears. I can NOT afford that.

So Hankook DynaPro Atm Rf10 in 31 10.5 15 along with the 5-pack of Pro Comp 51 steelies 15x8 from quadratec is what i am shooting for. Should have all this in about 2 months hopefully. 20 hrs a week at 8/hr really sucks, but what can I do I'm still in highschool.

hankook_zps55eedc8c.jpg
 
Does anyone have any knowledge on 6 ply tires? I noticed the Dynapro ATM RF10's I want come in a 6 ply version but I'm wondering what the pros and cons are versus the standard version.
 
jb98xj said:
I learned something new today. I thought 96 was the cut over year from the Dana 35, to the Chry 8.25. I just bought a 96 a couple of weeks ago that has the 8.25. Interesting.
Click to expand...

The 8.25" was available well before 1996. 1996 is the accepted cutoff year for the switch from 27 spline shafts to 29 spline shafts in the 8.25". As far as I know, after the 8.25" was introduced in the early 90's only the models with ABS got the Dana 35
 
Yes, my model has ABS. And speaking of axles and such, I finally got around to adjusting my tie rod, as it was toed in what looked like an inch more than the front.... this caused my new walfart tires to wear 25% in <2k miles. Well, those cruds are in the rear now and the front is eye ball aligned with the surfaces of the rear tires were all 4 surfaces of each of the 2 tires on either side eclipse at the same time. I left a smidge of toe in as I have heard there is supposed to be 1/16" toe in to track straight. hopefully my tires won't wear so bad now. Now i need to adress the ball joints or something because my wheels are negatively cambered at rest and i have noticed outer tread wear on the tires which means while driving the tires are positively cambered. It seems to be all over the place, but I lifted the front off the ground and pushed and pulled on the wheels but no play at all. Confused, what is causing the off camber ?
 
Yes, my model has ABS. And speaking of axles and such, I finally got around to adjusting my tie rod, as it was toed in what looked like an inch more than the front.... this caused my new walfart tires to wear 25% in <2k miles. :hang: Well, those cruds are in the rear now and the front is eye ball aligned with the surfaces of the rear tires were all 4 surfaces of each of the 2 tires on either side eclipse at the same time. I left a smidge of toe in as I have heard there is supposed to be 1/16" toe in to track straight. hopefully my tires won't wear so bad now. Now i need to adress the ball joints or something because my wheels are negatively cambered at rest and i have noticed outer tread wear on the tires which means while driving the tires are positively cambered. It seems to be all over the place, but I lifted the front off the ground and pushed and pulled on the wheels but no play at all. this leads me to believe that the ball joints are ok? Confused, what is causing the off camber ? (n)
 
Didn't mean to post so many replies above.. Didn't notice the thread enter page 2 so I didn't think they were posting. Anyways here's a beauty shot.

IMG_20140212_221950_zpskhau9pul.jpg
 
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