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Exhaust manifold problems.

What would you get instead?

The APN exhaust manifold from www.ineedparts.com. I have installed two of them, they fit and work.

As suggested already you may experience some slight interference between the intake and exhaust manifold, a minute of so of grinding and they will fit.
 
***UPDATE***

So I checked under and sure enough, the intake manifold was gapped and not seated correctly on the little positioning stubs.

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So I removed the intake & exhaust manifolds and lined everything up outside the vehicle and determined it just won't work and returned the POS exhaust manifold for a different type of POS manifold.

Installed both parts and followed the torque sequence per Haynes manual.

71d5cd14e408fe4bbd77be1539a4dc18.jpg


And it went in just fine, this time seated properly.

Now I have a new problem 😫.

Rough idle, rough accerlation. Idk where to start trouble shooting. Stumbles at the red light or cruising at 60 mph at 2k RPM. Seems to be lacking power. Never had this before head gasket problems


Here's a list of parts changed:
·Intake manifold
·exhaust manifold
·fuel injectors

All parts that removed are normal for a head gasket repair.

-Already cleaned the IAC sensor.
-Already checked spark plug wire sequence
-Thinking I may have crossed the fuel lines by accident
-Maybe a vaccume leak
-Maybe improper seated fuel injector


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Check engine light on, any codes yet?
 
Check engine light on, any codes yet?



That shit has probably been on for years. Had it diagnosed in Jan, came back with 02 sensor.

Have not had codes ran since problems started last night. Tried doing the "key trick" and no codes popped up.

Will take to advanced auto zone today.


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Check engine light on, any codes yet?



Okay, on the way to the auto store, my check engine light flashed three times.

Did some research. Apparently it means critical misfire.

Codes pulled:
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire.
P0455 evap emissions system gross leak

Engine also takes a long ass time to start. I'm thinking this has something to do with my new fuel injectors or the way I installed them.


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Last edited:
Those are nice manifold's w/ the expandable bellows.
Do you still have the factory injector's and seal's?
Misfires are usually a injector problem, agreed on that.
Deal w/ the 0455 after you cure the misfire, could be a valve, low compression or carbon build up to.
You changed a lot of stuff there and imo that can cause "unforeseen" problems to arise.
Or what I like to call a "shit blizzard", sounds like your on the right track though, only two codes to deal with is a good thing, did you ever correct the o2 sensor issue?
 
Do you still have the factory injector's and seal's?


Sure do.

213d46ab4349b1cad7ddab21137dc405.jpg


They're in great shape!


So what are you suggesting? Swapping them back in to see if that's causing the problem?

What else should I be checking?

Also, when. It's running, I can't tell if I hear an intake leak or if it's just the engine sounding like shit due to misfire. I sprayed carb cleaner around the vaccume lines and intake, no effect on idle...

I removed the fuel rail again and swapped #1 injector with #2 and reinstalled everything.

Also I read somewhere to reset the PCM by holding the negative and positive batt cables together for 30 secs. I forgot to turn headlights on and off to finish PCM reset. so I think all I did was reset CEL.

Here's a link to that: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/injector-swap-4-0l-92149/

I started the Heep back up and No CEL yet, but still runs like a fat chick (horribly). Just as bad as before.

did you ever correct the o2 sensor issue?


Negatron. Weird that it didn't pop up when I ran these codes today. I just ordered both 02 sensors and will replace them this weekend.

Tomorrow I check spark plug/wires and anything else you wise strangers suggest.

Shall I do a compression test? Fuel pressure test? I'm just shooting in the dark at this point. I blame ISIS.
 
Last edited:
Do you have a compression tester?

That's easy and costs nothing -- will rule out that one of the new valves is stuck open...



I can probably rent one. It's on my list of things to do.

For now I swapped:

Injectors 1 and 2
Spark plugs 1 and 3
Spark plug coils 1 and 6

To see if the problem follows any of those items. Driven for about 10 miles. So far no CEL. Still running like shit. I can smell my cat converter burning.

Also have two o2 sensors waiting to get installed. That will be tomorrow if they feel like coming off.

Will probably also do compression test tomorrow.


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Sure do.

213d46ab4349b1cad7ddab21137dc405.jpg


They're in great shape!


So what are you suggesting? Swapping them back in to see if that's causing the problem?

What else should I be checking?

Also, when. It's running, I can't tell if I hear an intake leak or if it's just the engine sounding like shit due to misfire. I sprayed carb cleaner around the vaccume lines and intake, no effect on idle...

I removed the fuel rail again and swapped #1 injector with #2 and reinstalled everything.

Also I read somewhere to reset the PCM by holding the negative and positive batt cables together for 30 secs. I forgot to turn headlights on and off to finish PCM reset. so I think all I did was reset CEL.

Here's a link to that: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/injector-swap-4-0l-92149/

I started the Heep back up and No CEL yet, but still runs like a fat chick (horribly). Just as bad as before.




Negatron. Weird that it didn't pop up when I ran these codes today. I just ordered both 02 sensors and will replace them this weekend.

Tomorrow I check spark plug/wires and anything else you wise strangers suggest.

Shall I do a compression test? Fuel pressure test? I'm just shooting in the dark at this point. I blame ISIS.

Hey, sorry forgot about this thread. Wise strangers do that though.

Yeah that second injector from the left is toast, throw that in the round file.
Personally I would go to my local boneyard and find some out of another Heep. However the others look better than what I got and my engine has 186k and is running good.

How many miles are on the bottom end of engine?, I know you put a new head on but didn't see anything about mileage.

Compression check would be a good idea, fuel pressure check would be a good idea, checking wires and making sure there in the proper location would be a excellent idea.

O2 sensors are really important to, anything obd2 relies on them heavily. One thing I would like to add about o2 sensor replacement is, if the vehicle has a lot of miles on it or even age can be a factor IE: almost 20 years old, you may want to consider there is a problem w/ the connector's.
"Universal" 02 sensors come with a new connector for the ecu side and the new sensor(you'll be putting on a new connector in other words), but that's time consuming to install, I prefer to just butt splice them on. That way you know the connection is not a issue.

Also, from what I've noticed with my 2k disconnecting the battery is a bad idea, it gets angry!. Runs like crap low power, mileage sucks, starts hard blah blah. I know when you do disconnect the battery it takes a long time for the o2 sensors to re-arm themselves which is why it runs crappy, you got a 99 though so maybe different, lots of changes in 2k.

Either way not having a cel w/ the complaints you have sucks! you basically are just shooting in the dark, how do you know where to start?

Check the compression, put new wires, cap and rotor on check the routing. New o2 sensors(just cut the plugs off and butt splice them, that's hi performance!) and let everyone know what happens:cheers:
 
Fuel injector wires are in proper order

Replaced coils, distributor cap, and rotor.

Replaced Both o2 sensors.

Haven't gotten a misfire code. Still getting P0455 evap large leak.

Still runs like aboslute shit. Takes 7-10 seconds to start. It does idle better, but still feels/ sounds like a misfire despite no codes. Possibly fuel starved engine.


***FUEL PRESSURE TEST***

Took 3 ON-OFF cycles to get it to 45-50Psi before starting the engine.

At idle:

46 PSI (Minimum of range)

e1fe0728cab4a1bb2a3a1140b14ff245.jpg



5 min after shutting vehicle off:

8 PSI. Manual says should be no less than 30 PSI.

d19afa3347a5ae403593aaeeb752e415.jpg


It appears I have a leak. I need to figure out how to isolate between the fuel rail and rest of system. The test kit I have doesn't have a T adapter.


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Disconnect the injector connectors.
Remove the fuel rail from the cylinder head, leave the injectors in the rail with the clips on.
Move rail/injectors so they are pointing away from the engine.
Turn the key "On" then back off after 2 seconds.
Inspect the outlet of the injectors and where they go into the rail itself for raw gas.


Frank Z, you da man. I did exactly what you told me but put some paper towels down first. GUESS WHAT!?

Found the problem.
f441f122abad420298c20fed8c31b628.jpg


#2 injector spitting gas.

Oh lawd, I feel so much better now.



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