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MontanaFab AW4 shift override controller

C

Charley3

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Longview, WA
It's just what I want for my 99 XJ, but I'm having difficulty finding where to buy one.

Do they still sell it?

Were there problems with it?
 
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Radesigns does not offer the type of control I want. Rad offers only manual control shifters.

I want manual control of 1 & 2 when I want it, and the rest of the time normal auto shifting. I don't want CEL errors.

The MontanaFab controller does what I want, but can't find anywhere to buy it. I'm wondering if it's been discontinued. Are there other ways to achieve what I want to do without throwing a CEL error code?
 
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Although they are not listed on their website a friend and I were able to get them within the last few months. I E-mailed them and even though they aren't listed on the site they are still available (or were recently).

He said they took them off of the site because the plug they needed for the "plug and play" version was no longer available. Because of that a few wires need cut and spliced into at the Tcm but it was easy and the shift controller works awesome! Also as far is I found when I looked it up they are the only one that doesn't throw a code on the late models.
 
The rad does let you control 1 and 2 with the rail controller. There is right up online somewhere to get it not to throw a cel. I didnt follow the write up but it was simple to clear the code by unplugging the ecu after use.
 
I emailed Montana Fab. They replied telling me their shifter mod is still for sale, but now for a lower price than before. $110 now, but it's no longer plug and play (see post #4 above).
 
That sounds like your best bet. The other kit that did what you want was called the "AWShifter" which is no longer available.
 
Charley3 said:
Radesigns does not offer the type of control I want. Rad. I want manual control of 1 & 2 when I want it, and the rest of the time normal auto shifting. I don't want CEL errors.
Click to expand...


Um ya the radesign rail shifter and switch do this.
You are able to control gears 1 and 2, you can lock and unlock the torque converter, and switch between manual control and auto control which puts you in normal auto shifting.
Literally he's the guy to talk to



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Demonoid369 said:
Um ya the radesign rail shifter and switch do this.
You are able to control gears 1 and 2, you can lock and unlock the torque converter, and switch between manual control and auto control which puts you in normal auto shifting.
Literally he's the guy to talk to
Click to expand...


But it throws CEL's and requires you to power off/on to go back to auto mode.

Or did the last time I talked with him about it.

Other companies have made products in the past that literally give you a "1/2" toggle switch for the 1/2 position and have no other effect on things. Its a much simpler $40 product that does not require installing a second shifter, 14 wires, cutting dash, etc etc etc.

I'm with the OP, I want what he's asking for. Well, I already have it, but the product I use is unobtanium and impossible to find now.

I use this product:

http://www.cherokee-jeep.com/
 
It's only obd2 that it will show a cel. Obd1 and remix it will not.
I was given the shifter and switched at nwfest and I golfed to Roy many times to understand how it works and as I said the only cel you'll get is in a obd2 system but he said after you turn it back to normal the cel will disappear after a little while


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
cal said:
But it throws CEL's and requires you to power off/on to go back to auto mode.

Or did the last time I talked with him about it.

Other companies have made products in the past that literally give you a "1/2" toggle switch for the 1/2 position and have no other effect on things. Its a much simpler $40 product that does not require installing a second shifter, 14 wires, cutting dash, etc etc etc.

I'm with the OP, I want what he's asking for. Well, I already have it, but the product I use is unobtanium and impossible to find now.

I use this product:

http://www.cherokee-jeep.com/
Click to expand...

I doubt the shift controller caused the trans to randomly go into first, its not made that way, no complicated electronics to pickup RF and do funky things.
Yes, RAD stuff is not for everybody.
Come on buddy. Uh, it's cut 2 wires. Not sure why you would say cut the dash??? So didn't you have to mount the Compushift somewhere? Drill two holes maybe? I agree it's not the perfect solution with the CEL thing but this is closing in on 9yrs of production and it gives you manual control, hold any gear, start in any gear. In a DD maybe not so important but when wheeling starting in 2nd low range or 3rd double low is nice. Shift when you want it the big thing. Just get the Winters setup and go full manual control, one shifter, compression braking in all the gears. Cover the CEL with tape. :D I know if you live in states or cities that require inspections you can't do that.
Background on the trans control is I needed something to control the trans with no TCM, I built something for me, other people wanted it, I started making them for sale. Unlike many companies I build stuff I need the if someone wants it I'll sell them. I don't just create stuff looking for a market.
 
R.DesJardin said:
I doubt the shift controller caused the trans to randomly go into first, its not made that way, no complicated electronics to pickup RF and do funky things.
Click to expand...

The issue with the trans going into first was entirely my fault, I went to hit my tc lockup switch and grabbed the auto/manual switch at 80mph on a down grade with the RAD shifter in first. Let's just say the engine rpms exceeded 8125 because I saw the PCM reset because of it. :gee:
 
My 2001 has had a Montana Fab shift controller for several years.
It's a little clunky to use but when you don't want the trans to unexpectedly downshift on a steep, slippery grade, it's what you want. It gets used a lot in the mountains.
The later model AW4s have input shaft sensors which eliminate the simple, manual switching of the solenoids, without throwing a code and putting the trans in a limp-home mode, that can only be cured by a computer reset.

Anyone know the first year the AW4s had input shaft speed sensors installed?

The older Montana Fab controllers were plug and plug, using plugs that matched the TCM'S plug. I like this feature, in case the controller dies, it is easy to remove it.
If buying a new Montana Fab controller, I would buy a multi-pin plug set and connect it to the controller and then splice it in, leaving the TCM's plug untouched. TCMs fail too.
Napa does have TCM plugs but they are very expensive, you might try find a set of Factory plugs at a wreaking yard.

I would use a second set of plugs and make a jumper, for use if the controller has problems and needs to be removed.
We like to venture long distances from the paved road and don't want an aftermarket device to cripple the Jeep, if it craps outs.
 
lazyxj said:
My 2001 has had a Montana Fab shift controller for several years.
It's a little clunky to use but when you don't want the trans to unexpectedly downshift on a steep, slippery grade, it's what you want. It gets used a lot in the mountains.
The later model AW4s have input shaft sensors which eliminate the simple, manual switching of the solenoids, without throwing a code and putting the trans in a limp-home mode, that can only be cured by a computer reset.
Click to expand...

If you use a resistor to simulate the solenoids when you disconnect them it won't set a fault or go into any kind of limp-mode.

lazyxj said:
The older Montana Fab controllers were plug and plug, using plugs that matched the TCM'S plug. I like this feature, in case the controller dies, it is easy to remove it.
If buying a new Montana Fab controller, I would buy a multi-pin plug set and connect it to the controller and then splice it in, leaving the TCM's plug untouched. TCMs fail too.
Napa does have TCM plugs but they are very expensive, you might try find a set of Factory plugs at a wreaking yard.

I would use a second set of plugs and make a jumper, for use if the controller has problems and needs to be removed.
We like to venture long distances from the paved road and don't want an aftermarket device to cripple the Jeep, if it craps outs.
Click to expand...

For a 98-01 here are the TCU connectors.
http://octopart.com/178762-1-te+connectivity+/+amp-2078160
Here is the TCU side connector
http://octopart.com/917994-5-te+connectivity+/+amp-2094026
Here is the mating side connector
http://octopart.com/175269-1-te+connectivity+/+amp-2044801
Here are the big pins, you need 10
http://octopart.com/175265-1-te+connectivity+/+amp-942645
Here are the smaller pins, you need 16

:jester:
 
sidewaysstarion said:
If you use a resistor to simulate the solenoids when you disconnect them it won't set a fault or go into any kind of limp-mode.
Click to expand...

It's been eight or ten years since there were several on the forum who were experimenting with using resistors to fool their OBDII computer.
I too was trying to discover a solution, originally only finding the pre-97 method.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAutoSwitch.htm

I don't remember anyone actually getting it to be foolproof and publishing the plans.
Search is failing to find it.
Do you have more information on this?
 
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