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Will this D44HP work?

RWKHausSupply said:
Much much better hub kit, one that doesnt have a "fuse" that fails when pushed. Not to mention no plastic parts and sticks out about 1/2" or more, less that then old outdated warn counterpart.

And those can be had for $275 plus shipping.
Click to expand...

I've been goofing around on your website building stuff! K good to know I was thinking about these as well. Had read the warns aren't the greatest. I used them on my old K5, they worked ok but that was a pavement princess that never saw dirt.

Thanks for the rest of the info. Pretty sure TnT is the only place that makes the truss for the swap.
 
trippled said:
Yes. A lot of people that used this ram cut the mount off the ram housing and rotated it 90 to get the lines in a more optimal location. Pretty easy to do. Big thing is making sure it's parallel to the tie rod it's pushing on. Other option is a PSC ram with swivel ends but cost about $200.
Click to expand...

Cool, will probably dig into that a little more once I get the rest of the axle in place.
 
Seiler said:
Sorry if I skipped over this detail, but do you plan to keep them full width or narrow?
Click to expand...

No worries, haven't mentioned it yet but will keep them full width.
 
Same axle I'm going to run. You mentioned BOM said 78 F250, but pretty sure that would be 8 lug.

Are those chevy flat top knuckles?

Only downside I have for this axle is it is so damn heavy!

I just got my 5.13 (with 33's for now, might run 35's but if I originally planned to run 35's I'd have gone 5.38's) gears in the mail and true trac. I'm running a Detroit in the rear. I opted to buy a whole 3rd member from Quick Performance for the 9". Just have to drop that sucker in when it arrives.

Not sure what tire size you plan to run but I would consider running more gear than 4.88
 
The_Punisher said:
Same axle I'm going to run. You mentioned BOM said 78 F250, but pretty sure that would be 8 lug.

Are those chevy flat top knuckles?

Only downside I have for this axle is it is so damn heavy!

I just got my 5.13 (with 33's for now, might run 35's but if I originally planned to run 35's I'd have gone 5.38's) gears in the mail and true trac. I'm running a Detroit in the rear. I opted to buy a whole 3rd member from Quick Performance for the 9". Just have to drop that sucker in when it arrives.

Not sure what tire size you plan to run but I would consider running more gear than 4.88
Click to expand...

The axle was stripped when I got it so no way to know 100% if it 8 lug at the time. I know there where a few f150 that where 5 lug with leafs.

Pretty sure they are chevy knuckles again it was what the guy had. I personally don't think the axle was that heavy, but that was moving it around stripped. In any case it's the upgrade over the D30 and not the overkill of a D60.

I'm thinking about getting a whole drop in for the 9. That is the ones thing I really like about that axle. I'll have to see cost wise if it will be a huge difference from doing a drop in or have someone build me one. Trying to get air lockers so the more I can save on other crap the better!

I'm going to run 35's. I have 4.11's for my 33's and while they aren't terrible they aren't great, especially with the rig loaded going up the hill. If I was trailering and just building it for off road I would go higher, but since i still want to keep it streetable I think 4.88's will do fine. I'm also considering tossing a turbo in there. So we will see.
 
Luke95 said:
Fullwidth is amazing. I managed to fit 37s on a zj with 3 inches of lift.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I debated on it, I like the narrow track I currently have and it makes it a lot easier on some trail here but I think with going up to the 35's it will be better to keep the COG low. Plus it just looks awesome...party1:
 
I too thought a 44 was great till I popped hubs like candy and then cracked my Detroit. I then built a Dana 50 35 spline as a stand In till I can find a super sixty.

b34bf9f41a06eaff92b874dcb2a5a463.jpg
this is my full width 50/10.5 on factory f350 rims. It fits pretty nice and should work great on the trails.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
smokeyyank said:
The axle was stripped when I got it so no way to know 100% if it 8 lug at the time. I know there where a few f150 that where 5 lug with leafs.

Pretty sure they are chevy knuckles again it was what the guy had. I personally don't think the axle was that heavy, but that was moving it around stripped. In any case it's the upgrade over the D30 and not the overkill of a D60.

I'm thinking about getting a whole drop in for the 9. That is the ones thing I really like about that axle. I'll have to see cost wise if it will be a huge difference from doing a drop in or have someone build me one. Trying to get air lockers so the more I can save on other crap the better!

I'm going to run 35's. I have 4.11's for my 33's and while they aren't terrible they aren't great, especially with the rig loaded going up the hill. If I was trailering and just building it for off road I would go higher, but since i still want to keep it streetable I think 4.88's will do fine. I'm also considering tossing a turbo in there. So we will see.
Click to expand...

one of the beauties of these axles, and my reason for running them, is that you can run deeper gears (deeper than 4.88). This my last plug for lower gears (higher numerically). I would run at least 5.13's with 35's.

I recently did business with East Coast Gear supply for my front 5.13's and true trac. I highly recommend them. They threw everything in a flat rate for me to save on shipping (I live in Alaska). The ring and pinion was in there banging around freely and were damaged. I complained in an email with pictures of damage on the weekend and had shipment confirmation for the new parts Monday morning.

I have not received my 3rd member from quick performance yet. Pricing was reasonable for me, but shipping was still $150. Seems silly because it's so easy to rebuild on a bench, but I have way too many things to do on my rig.

http://www.quickperformance.com/Complete-Center-Sections_c_558.html

I chose relatively stock parts for the 3rd member. Didn't upgrade the housing because I couldn't afford to do that too.
 
The_Punisher said:
one of the beauties of these axles, and my reason for running them, is that you can run deeper gears (deeper than 4.88). This my last plug for lower gears (higher numerically). I would run at least 5.13's with 35's.

I recently did business with East Coast Gear supply for my front 5.13's and true trac. I highly recommend them. They threw everything in a flat rate for me to save on shipping (I live in Alaska). The ring and pinion was in there banging around freely and were damaged. I complained in an email with pictures of damage on the weekend and had shipment confirmation for the new parts Monday morning.

I have not received my 3rd member from quick performance yet. Pricing was reasonable for me, but shipping was still $150. Seems silly because it's so easy to rebuild on a bench, but I have way too many things to do on my rig.

http://www.quickperformance.com/Complete-Center-Sections_c_558.html

I chose relatively stock parts for the 3rd member. Didn't upgrade the housing because I couldn't afford to do that too.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks for the info. I've been looking at East Coast to see what they can offer. Will probably try working through a vendor here and see what I can come up with. I know rwkhaus can get some pretty good deals.

What are your RPMs with 5.13's for highway? I looked at grimmjeepers site to get an idea, but like to hear personal opinions on it.
 
Mine is a build in progress. I just have enough experience to know I like to go a little higher numerically, or in the high end (red area?) on those gear ratio charts. Not low or in the green middle area, but the higher area.

So because it's a build and not on the road yet I only have what the calculator tells me. With my AW4, 33's that actually measure 32" on the Jeep (this is my experience) and 5.13's, I will be around 2600 RPM @ 65 MPH in overdrive.

With the same scenario, but with 35's that might measure to an actual 34" if you're lucky you would be just under 2500 @ 65
 
Cool, well maybe 5.13s it is.
 
Cool, thanks for all the replies. I know on my 4.11's when I ran 31's it was a awesome, lots of low end and going up the hill wasn't an issue. Then when I moved up to 33's I just wanted more. Since this won't be a daily 5.13's may be the best bet. My concern is just when driving on the highway it would just kind of suck, but with the added weight of gear and everything at altitude the more power the better.
 
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