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Rear leaf sliders - Install

Update:

Got the old mount cut off and made repairs to the floorboard and subframe. Picked up a pair of Chevy 52's and swapped the mains onto my existing Rubicon pack. Fabbed up a new front spring hanger from 3/16x3 flat bar.

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For placement, I left about 3/4" from the back of the slider slot (for "wiggle room") and measured 52" from there to a spot on the frame to find where my front bolt needed to be. Figured that would be the best way to make sure the bolt wouldn't bottom out on the back of the slider. Here's where I'm at now, after getting one spring installed: (sorry, not much progress, but been busy with 'life' and gathering other parts, lol)

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Should have plenty of room in the slider now. The new Chevy locator pin should help me hang onto some wheelbase and I also discovered I've got 3 adjustment holes in my current spring perches, so that's another inch I get to keep there...

Current "we'll see how it looks" points will be how pinion angle is affected and seeing just how much lift gets lost when it's back on all fours.

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so, ive never seen sliders in action, in person. but my first thought is...

right now the spring is just suspended, essentially full droop. it will compress with the weight of the vehicle on it. then it will compress further when articulated. do you plan on only using the rear half of the slider? i dont see the weight of the axle and tires pulling the rear of the leaf much farther forward on full droop.
 
so, ive never seen sliders in action, in person. but my first thought is...

right now the spring is just suspended, essentially full droop. it will compress with the weight of the vehicle on it. then it will compress further when articulated. do you plan on only using the rear half of the slider? i dont see the weight of the axle and tires pulling the rear of the leaf much farther forward on full droop.
My thought is, yes, the spring will spend most of its time toward the back of the slider... for a few reasons. 1: the roll cage mount is welded to it in that area, so it'll help take 'weight' off of the frame... 2: that's the area where the factory shackle was (as far as front to rear), or as close as I can get it... and 3: it helps keep wheelbase as long as possible.

The spring should never exceed 52", center to center, spring eye to spring eye, since that's the length of the main leaf. I left about 3/4" at the back of the slider slot when I measured for the new front spring mount placement, so I should have no worries about it overextending... even at full compression. When flexing, I'm foreseeing the weight of the vehicle pushing the spring down further than gravity can, like in the pic, so it'll need that extra room in the front half of the slider.

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Update:
Went wheeling with the new set-up over Memorial Day weekend. I did, in fact, lose a few inches of lift in the rear... so much that the rear now sits lower than the front, where this was the opposite before the slider install. However, I was still able to get around the park without high-centering too much (not enough to get stuck). My remedy will likely be to find some higher-lift springs, then swap the Chevy 52's onto the new pack to keep the length I need. Judging from the mud (or lack thereof) that the slides kept pushed away, they only used about the last 2" of the slot, so ideally, I could find a shop that could re-curve the springs to a higher lift and make their length just a tad shorter at the same time, essential forming them into a 'tighter' U-shape. Other than that, I did have to shave about 1/8" off each of the metal bushings that come inside the plastic slides because they allowed the slides to float off of the slot tracks. Easy fix. At the end of the day, I couldn't be happier with the way they performed! No wobbly stuff went on back there and the sandy soil didn't seem to abrade the slides much at all, if any. Most importantly, everything held up all weekend without failure, lol! I'll admit, I didn't hit anything REAL hard, but I did get on the throttle a few times and gave the new, full spool a workout (which I also love)... but the rear suspension never felt 'abused' during those times. Now, I know that most folks probably won't go through quite as much fab work just for sliders, but I do highly recommend them (Here's a Liquid Iron Industries plug). Latest pics to follow...

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Oh yeah, and I gained some wheelbase in the process. Ended up having to add 4-1/2" to my rear DS. Pinion angle was pretty high to begin with, so it stayed acceptable with the new main leaves and higher rear spring eyes.
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Update: Took 'er out again for this past Black Friday and still have zero issues with the sliders themselves. The "plastic" slides were a concern with the sandy soil at the park we ride at.. I expected it to be pretty abrasive.. but (knock on wood), they're staying nice and tight to date (granted, they've only been out twice since the install).

One of the guys I wheel with just got himself some new leafs from dpgoffroad.com. They deal with OME springs iirc and they will basically build you custom leaf packs based on your vehicle, load and riding style. I'll likely be letting them know my application & measurements to see if they can whip something up for me, so I'll definitely keep this post updated with that as it transpires. Until that happens, I've gotta get my DD and tow rig back up to snuff, then the XJ will be getting the Eaton e-locker installed in the front D30.. DEFINITELY looking forward to that!!

Anyone have any experience with DPG Offroad or OME's "custom" leaf packs?

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I did not catch what spring length you are looking for but I'm running d150 van springs. 3" of lift stock pack and longer rear from center pin. I chose these of the chevy springs to shift the axle back.

Also, what's in the next shop bay? A tubbed dead sled.
 
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