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Radio shuts off when I use a power window

CarbonXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
columbia
it's a jeep thing, right??

I only found one other thread while searching, which wasn't updated, so I'll try to update this one if I can solve the issue.
2000 XJ, 4.0L AW4 with Pioneer head unit and Crutchfield plug in adapters, Kicker comps with adapters in doors. Stock wiring otherwise.

This started out very intermittently, and only while the accessory was on (jeep not running, key in ACC) and only when BOTH driver/passenger windows rolled up and "finished" at the same time; the radio would cut off(restart, then begin playing). When the Jeep was running there were no issues at all. then it escalated to the radio sound from the speakers would start breaking up and finally no sound (ACC on, radio still on, display fine) without the windows being used. I inspected the radio wiring at the deck, it's a Pioneer head unit with a Crutchfield adapter harness mating to the stock plugs - they all look great, and I soldered connections on install 2 years ago that are still perfect.

Yesterday, the radio would cut off whenever ANY window switch was used, regardless of ACC on or engine running, and sound cut out as well. I dont' really need to say that this is unacceptable.

Before I get to removing panels, this sounds like a ground or shorted wire issue - likely in the door jamb area. My question is, do these two circuits have anything in common that I should look for? I dont' have my FSM anymore, just a Haynes. I plan on taking the multimeter and seeing if there is a voltage drop to the radio when a window is activated, and also pulling out the wires in the door jamb for about the 37th time. Thanks for any help/ideas!
 
Known issue are broken wires in the door jambs. Start there and repair the broken ones.
 
That's a given, since I stated that I would start there, and had previously made repairs.

The main concern is what do the two circuits have in common electrically, and why would the engine running keep it from occurring?

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I had a WJ that the transmission started acting up in. The problem was broken wires in the doors. They had nothing in common but they did.

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nothing really to contribute other than guesses BUT...

engine running will raise system voltage from 12V to ~14V

I would start by checking inside the rubber boot between the driver's door and door jamb for broken/chafed wires. Next most likely would be pass. door as those two get used the most

on my '99 I had to repair both the driver's door speaker wiring and also the wiring in the hatch for the rear defog due to wires breaking from simply flexing over time. Both were broken within their respective rubber boots. Guess that the wiring originally used was a bit too stiff.
 
Mid 2000 f150s were bad about the door wiring, had one that Everytime you hit the window down the door ajar light came on. Again, multiple broken wires.

Also, many aftermarket radios will cancel the speakers or restart if they detect a short in the speaker wiring.
 
The radio goes into safety mode when the front door 12 volts from a short circuit gets into the speaker wires. Fixing the front door wire harness damage should also cure the short circuit, and the radio symptoms.
 
No broken wires in the door harness. I had previously repaired the wiring issues there.
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I have pulled the radio and every connection has been cleaned up and firmly connected. I'm going to drive with the door panel and center cover off for a while and see if I can see wires bouncing?

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Update: I could not recreate the issue at all until yesterday. that's a full 5 days of driving, checking every chance I could to recreate it, and nothing occurring. Now, suddenly out of the blue, it is doing it again, but only when the key is in ACC. If the engine is running, it does not occur. I have also noticed that now, my drivers window motor seems to be struggling to start up. Battery is new, and alternator tests perfect - I went to two places to test just to make sure of results.

There are NO broken/chafed wires in any of the door jambs, and I followed them through the kick panel as well, nothing. The only issues I found was when I wiggled the speaker side harness (Crutchfield) at the radio that the drivers speaker would cut out. I bent the pins slightly, and that solved that issue.

So, again, what do these two circuits have in common? If anyone with a 2000 FSM can find something for me, say a shared connector in the dash or some common ground point???
 
What kind of shape are your battery cables in? I just replaced my cables and battery to PDC and ground to fender and electronics are working much better. The last anomaly before my battery finally crapped out was the display on my stereo kept on going out. It still operated normally but display was not always visible. Since changing cables it works great. I assume it was either not enough amperage flow or weak grounding or both.

I had replaced the battery clamps several times knowing that it was a temporary fix and that I needed to replace cables ASAP. Just finally was able to after two years.
 
Basic troubleshooting in the correct order should solve your problem.

Start where the problem is occurring. The head unit. I don't think you stated but does the sound simply go away or does the head unit shut off completely?

If the head unit stays powered move on down the line. If it loses power pull it, recreate the problem and test to see if acc. power is present or not when using the power window.

I'd like to help further but I'd like to wait and see if you're losing acc. power or it is dropping significantly below expected system voltage.

dub
 
Last night I rolled up all the windows, washed the old girl, and now the drivers window doesn't work. All others do. Sigh, I travel for work and that leaves zero down time.

Tonight's plan is to get out and pull apart everything to test with the multimeter, and toss in the original radio to test. I did pull the Crutchfield harness, and as I look at it, I don't see where the ground from the radio connects to anything. Black Wire to the left in from the radio, loops over to the other side, then nothing! It's not modified or damaged in any way, so...
b3536f203ec7d06561321f3f7971c8f8.jpg


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Here is the other side, with the cap opened up. The pins do not connect to anything.

The big reveal will hopefully show itself once I get it apart and test for power, after I find out why the drivers side quit.
61fae613155d83cfa7f7574b522a5056.jpg


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Finally got a moment to get into this. I could not duplicate it with the original radio. My drivers window motor is now dead.

The original XJ harness power supply has a separate ground, but also grounds through the antenna. I tested what I thought was accessory power with one end to the multimeter and the other to the ground. I promptly blew fuse #6 in my underhood PDC. Wrong setting, oops. Now that I have my wits, I matched up Crutchfield harness with the original. What the Crutchfield has as a yellow (1) accessory wire, the original harness has 12.65 on it at all times. What Crutchfield has as the red (2) constant wire, the original has zero voltage unless the engine is running, and it too hits 12.65 when running.

Now, when I roll a window down and it ends, the yellow side (1) voltage does not change. The red side (2) voltage drops to 10.6 volts, however. These, to me, are backwards in the Crutchfield harness.

I have left the original radio installed, it's time to get to the 2nd job. I will try swapping the wires, test, and add a ground, test, when I can. And order a new window motor...

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New window motor installed, and finally got some fresh air!

I have installed the Pioneer radio on the 16th, but this time hooked up the unused ground from the factory harness to the dead loop of the Crutchfield harness. Can't believe I didn't notice the lack of ground almost 3 years ago when I installed.

I have not been able to duplicate the shutoff, but it's gone days being just fine and BAM it starts up again. Ongoing...
 
I'm sure this has been said, but my harness on my 98 Euro spec XJ was rubbing against the door. I has bare wires that would touch and opening the window periodically would turn the radio off when I opened or closed the windows. I'd imagine you are having a similar issue somewhere.
 
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