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Durango Alternator Swap Compatability

bulfo4

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New mexico
Does anyone know what years of Durango alternators are compatible with which years of XJs? Is there a list anyone has put together?

For mine, I have a 1996 4.0L HO and I'm looking at a 2002 Durango with the 5.9L which should be the 160amp alternator (12329 at Autozone)
 
It's not plug-and-play since the connector block is different. It can be made to work though, basically you would need to convert the connector block on your jeep to the two-pin connector on the later model jeep/dodge vehicles (the two small ring terminals go to the two pins, and the other two ring terminals are just grounded to the shell).

You'll also need to phyically clearance your stock alternator brackets to fit the larger alternator.
 
Jeep ran Denso alternators from '91 and up. All Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep Denso alternators are externally regulated, so the 2002 Durango alt will work in your jeep, from a strictly electrical perspective.

However, there are some physical issues you need to consider. The back of your '96 alt looks like this: http://www.sparkplugs.com/services/...tImages/3/211-0129_E.JPG&width=300&height=300

The back of the 2002 Durango alternator looks like this: http://www.sparkplugs.com/services/...tImages/3/210-0484_E.JPG&width=300&height=300

You'll notice that the B+ post on the Durango sticks out the side, instead of sticking out the back. That's because the Durango uses a different, higher-capacty rectifier to handle the higher amperage output. So don't try to swap your '96 rectifier to the durango alternator. Also, you have a different terminal for the other two wires. I'm sure you can just bolt your B+ wire to the side terminal on the Durango alternator. And you might be able to swap your 2-wire terminal from your '96 into the Durango alternator. Swapping the 2-wire terminal would at least involve cutting the rear cover on the durango alt. Another option is to convert the wiring on your Jeep to fit the new Durango alternator.

So ... you will have some challenges with the wiring hookup. It can be done ... I'm sure there are writeups somewhere, but I don't know off the top of my head. If you decide to mount the Durango 160 to your '96, please post pics of how you did it ... that would be a big help to the rest of us.

The Durango alternator is also fatter, so you'll need to grind your alternator brackets to accommodate that.

Another option you might want to consider: The 1998 Grand Cherokee had 136 AMP alternators as an option on their 4.0 and 4.7 liter motors, and standard on their 5.9L V8s. I believe the Denso Part number for the GC 136 amp alternator is 121000-4170.

The back of the GC 136-AMP alternator looks like this: http://www.sparkplugs.com/services/...tImages/3/210-0151_E.jpg&width=300&height=300

You'll notice that the only difference in the wiring hookup between your '96 XJ and the '98 GC is that the B+ insulator is clocked differently. You might be able to simply unbolt and turn that insulator, or swap the insulator from your XJ. Either way ... it's an easy fix.

The GC 136 alternator is also fatter, so you'll need to grind your mounting brackets.

Another thing to consider: you should also upgrade your charging wire harness to #2 welding cable to efficiently handle the extra amperage. See this thread here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1069291

Hope this helps.
 
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Might I also recommend that you swap the pulley from the XJ alternator to the ZJ alternator... By using the ZJ pulley the alternator will turn slower which will require the engine speed to be increased to get the same charging rates.
When I did my alternator swap many years ago... I unscrewed the B+ copper stud and swapped the insulator from the XJ alternator to the ZJ alternator so that the cable will be clocked properly.
You can remove both the steel and aluminum mounting brackets and fit the alternator and identify how much will need removing from each bracket. The rear aluminum bracket will require more removed than the front steel bracket.
Other than these fuse minor modifications; the GC alternator is a plug and play.
 
IIRC the 96 uses the ECU as the voltage regulator, correct? I am looking for a swap for the Renix era vehicles that have the internal regulators.
 
Yes.... the 91-01 XJs which use the Denso alternators are externally regulated and controlled by ECU.
Somewheres in the past year there was discussion about what vehicles had the higher rated Delco alternators that were a plug and play for the Renix vehicles.
Maybe this will help...

Delco-Remy: 1987-1990 12SI

94 amp Delco-Remy 12SI

1987-84 Buick
1987-84 Cadillac
1987-84 Chevrolet
1987-84 GMC
1987-84 Oldsmobile
1987-84 Pontiac
1987-84 AMC
1987-90 Jeep

*note 12SI's come in three clock positions, 3, 9 and 12.

85-105 amp Delco-Remy CS-130 (130mm Stator)

1990-88 Buick Estate Wagon 5.0L
1990-88 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD) 5.0L
1990-88 Chevrolet Caprice 5.0L
1990-88 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser 5.0L
1989-88 Pontiac Safari Wagon 5.0L

85-105 amp Delco-Remy CS-130(D) (130mm Stator)

1994-2000 Most GM vehicles

*1994 to 1996 GM used both the CS-130 and CS-130 D.

Improvements over the CS-130 Alternator include:

· More open design for better air flow
· Larger bearings
· Dual Internal Fans to increase air volume
· Regulator and Rectifier located on the outside, away from stator and rotor heat.

140 amp Delco-Remy CS-144 (144mm Stator)

1987-2002 Many GM Vehicles
1996-94 Buick Roadmaster 5.7L
1996-93 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD) 5.7L
1996-93 Chevrolet Caprice 4.3L, 5.7L
1996-95 Chevrolet Impala 5.7L
1995-92 Chevrolet Lumina APV Van 3.8L
1995-92 Oldsmobile Silhouette 3.8L
1995-92 Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8L
 
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I was/am having alternator issues, haven't finished hooking everything up yet to see if I solved my issue.

I was looking for an alternator for my 98 Cherokee 4.0L. I searched my make and model at Autozone and came up with two choices:
13199 - 90 amp
13469 - 120 amp
I changed the make and model to a 98 GC 4.0L and came up with the same part numbers as above.

The 136 amp alternator is only listed under the 5.2 and 5.9:
13387 - 136 amp

I was amazed to see the large jump in core charges between them. Good luck.
 
Yes.... the 91-01 XJs which use the Denso alternators are externally regulated and controlled by ECU.
Somewheres in the past year there was discussion about what vehicles had the higher rated Delco alternators that were a plug and play for the Renix vehicles.
Maybe this will help...

Delco-Remy: 1987-1990 12SI

94 amp Delco-Remy 12SI

1987-84 Buick
1987-84 Cadillac
1987-84 Chevrolet
1987-84 GMC
1987-84 Oldsmobile
1987-84 Pontiac
1987-84 AMC
1987-90 Jeep

*note 12SI's come in three clock positions, 3, 9 and 12.

85-105 amp Delco-Remy CS-130 (130mm Stator)

1990-88 Buick Estate Wagon 5.0L
1990-88 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD) 5.0L
1990-88 Chevrolet Caprice 5.0L
1990-88 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser 5.0L
1989-88 Pontiac Safari Wagon 5.0L

85-105 amp Delco-Remy CS-130(D) (130mm Stator)

1994-2000 Most GM vehicles

*1994 to 1996 GM used both the CS-130 and CS-130 D.

Improvements over the CS-130 Alternator include:

· More open design for better air flow
· Larger bearings
· Dual Internal Fans to increase air volume
· Regulator and Rectifier located on the outside, away from stator and rotor heat.

140 amp Delco-Remy CS-144 (144mm Stator)

1987-2002 Many GM Vehicles
1996-94 Buick Roadmaster 5.7L
1996-93 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD) 5.7L
1996-93 Chevrolet Caprice 4.3L, 5.7L
1996-95 Chevrolet Impala 5.7L
1995-92 Chevrolet Lumina APV Van 3.8L
1995-92 Oldsmobile Silhouette 3.8L
1995-92 Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8L

The Delco SI is not a "direct" swap - you'll have to change the regulator plug on the wiring harness (adapt or change outright - adapting is better.)

The CS144 is a better swap than any SI - most CS144s will drop straight in to the wiring. I haven't worked up a donor list yet, but what's here looks pretty good.

NB: The Delco will not drop in and swap for the CS or SI - you will need to add a voltage regulator! Conversely, the Delco (CS or SI) will not drop in for the ND - not without modifying the wiring (for the internal regulator) and throwing a persistent code (the PCM will see that its own regulator isn't doing anything, and think that something is wrong. Currently, no known workaround.)

(Sorry, but I have to answer both of those little questions FAR too often!)

I've worked up a more comprehensive list of donors for the ND up through 160A OTS - I don't think I've posted it here, but you're likely to find it at JeepForum, CherokeeForum, CherokeeTalk, and maybe CherokeeTech. I intend to fully codify it and put it up on my site as part of a pending reorg. Note that the apps listed are UNCONFIRMED - so if you try one and drop it in, please let me know so I can change the status for future reference.

@CharlesS - I know I asked this a couple of days ago in another thread, but I want to make sure this gets covered - could you give semi-detailed (at least) instructions on how to swap the ND pully? It's not immediately apparent to most people, that I recall... Thanx!
 
could you give semi-detailed (at least) instructions on how to swap the ND pully? It's not immediately apparent to most people, that I recall... Thanx!

The easiest way to break the pulley loose is to hold it in your hand while hitting the nut with an impact gun (this is how the local place does it too). A strap-wrench can also be used to immobilize the pulley, and then you can probably use a regular ratchet to get the nut to break free.

There is also a small hex recess in the center of the shaft, which you can use to make a tool--take a deep-well socket and hold it with vice grips, then stick an allen wrench through the hole in the socket, and hold the allen wrench still while turning the socket. This guy (good rebuild writeup) made a tool by cutting a socket in half and welding it to a bar

001-2.jpg


006.jpg
 
Just put the pulley in a vise with rubber sleeves on the jaws and then blip the nut with an impact; the nut spins right off.....
Remove the pulley, install other pulley and reassemble in the reverse order....
 
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The Delco SI is not a "direct" swap - you'll have to change the regulator plug on the wiring harness (adapt or change outright - adapting is better.)

The CS144 is a better swap than any SI - most CS144s will drop straight in to the wiring. I haven't worked up a donor list yet, but what's here looks pretty good.

NB: The Delco will not drop in and swap for the CS or SI - you will need to add a voltage regulator! Conversely, the Delco (CS or SI) will not drop in for the ND - not without modifying the wiring (for the internal regulator) and throwing a persistent code (the PCM will see that its own regulator isn't doing anything, and think that something is wrong. Currently, no known workaround.)

(Sorry, but I have to answer both of those little questions FAR too often!)

I've worked up a more comprehensive list of donors for the ND up through 160A OTS - I don't think I've posted it here, but you're likely to find it at JeepForum, CherokeeForum, CherokeeTalk, and maybe CherokeeTech. I intend to fully codify it and put it up on my site as part of a pending reorg. Note that the apps listed are UNCONFIRMED - so if you try one and drop it in, please let me know so I can change the status for future reference.

@CharlesS - I know I asked this a couple of days ago in another thread, but I want to make sure this gets covered - could you give semi-detailed (at least) instructions on how to swap the ND pully? It's not immediately apparent to most people, that I recall... Thanx!
Here is what I went with after scouring the jy looking for an alt off the list for my renix. The last 2 post.
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97740
 
once I had the right part mine was plug and play besides the bracket clearancing..

I have a 01
and used a 160 amp alt.. (id have to look through my receipts to remember what year 'rango) I'll dig through when I get home and find the year and part no..

I did a wiring main upgrade to 2ga
and headlight harness w ecode housings and h4's
all together . I'm very happy with it..
 
once I had the right part mine was plug and play besides the bracket clearancing..

I have a 01 and used a 160 amp alt.. (id have to look through my receipts to remember what year 'rango) I'll dig through when I get home and find the year and part no..

2001-2003 Durango alternators are plug and play with 99-01 XJs. But *Only* if you get the alternator from the 5.9 liter Durango. The 4.7 liter motor has the B+ terminal sticking out to the side, like in the pic I linked in my first post above. You can probably still use that, but the 5.9 Liter Durango alternator is directly plug and play with 2001-2003.

Will still have to grind out XJ brackets for clearance.
 
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What is the alternator swap that has the most amperage for a 98 Cherokee? The back of my alternator looks like this:
image.asp


I have the part number for the Grand Cherokee 136 amp, but wanted to see if there was an option between the GC or the $400 200 amp alternator from Powermaster or Mean Green or the eBay specials. Thanks.
 
The easiest way to break the pulley loose is to hold it in your hand while hitting the nut with an impact gun (this is how the local place does it too). A strap-wrench can also be used to immobilize the pulley, and then you can probably use a regular ratchet to get the nut to break free.

There is also a small hex recess in the center of the shaft, which you can use to make a tool--take a deep-well socket and hold it with vice grips, then stick an allen wrench through the hole in the socket, and hold the allen wrench still while turning the socket. This guy (good rebuild writeup) made a tool by cutting a socket in half and welding it to a bar

Awright - I might be getting my wires crossed. I was under the impression that the ND pully was pressed onto the shaft, rather than retained with a nut (like on the Delco.) Anyone who's been swinging wrenches for more than a fortnight can usually sort out a Delco pully swap - I thought it was something different...
 
I have the part number for the Grand Cherokee 136 amp, but wanted to see if there was an option between the GC or the $400 200 amp alternator from Powermaster or Mean Green or the eBay specials. Thanks.
Not anything off the shelf to my knowledge. BTW the 136 was included on several vehicles under different option codes, so the junkyards will often have them for different prices. Here is the spec sheet, look on car-part.com for different models that have a 136

vdn11361204.jpg
 
2001-2003 Durango alternators are plug and play with 99-01 XJs. But *Only* if you get the alternator from the 5.9 liter Durango. The 4.7 liter motor has the B+ terminal sticking out to the side, like in the pic I linked in my first post above. You can probably still use that, but the 5.9 Liter Durango alternator is directly plug and play with 2001-2003.

Will still have to grind out XJ brackets for clearance.

Agreed. I dropped a 160a from a 2003 5.9 into my '99 XJ. Other than the physical fitment issues, the alternator was plug & play. I opted to use the durango pulley with one empty rib on the outer edge. I didn't really need the extra amps, I just couldn't justify paying the same price for an alternator with half the amperage.
 
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