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durango alternator

russxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
high point nc
I have used the search box but have not found the info. What year durango am i looking for and will this swap work on my 90. Also which year yj bracket will work to move the alternator up? Any info will be a great help. Thank in advance!!
 
durango alternators fit the H.O. quite well, but are regulated differant... you want an internally regulared alt.


on my renix, i run a CS-144 where my A/C compressor used to sit, with a 770k6 belt.
 
thanks for the info. the yj bracket is not a have too item. I just remember reading about it moving the alternator higher up on the motor. help keep it out of the water and mud a little bit better.
 
if you pull the bracket off the 4.0, you can mock it up on the work bench. use the idler pulley a fan clutch to align the alt pulley in and out. i reused the stock bottom mount bracket, 2 new bolts, and 2 spacers/washer stacks. i had to make a real simple bracket... basically 2 3/8ths holes about 2" apart, then grind down the metal to clear the alternator.
 
I have used the search box but have not found the info. What year durango am i looking for and will this swap work on my 90. Also which year yj bracket will work to move the alternator up? Any info will be a great help. Thank in advance!!

You have a 1990, therefore RENIX. This means you have a Delco CS-130 alternator, which is internally regulated.

This means:

- Try to find a higher-output CS-130 or install a CS-144 - either of which can be found in various GM donors. I haven't worked up a list just yet.

- Take your unit to a local shop and have it upwound - any competent shop can handle that for you without looking. The shop I use will crank out a 140A CS-130 for $1/amp, and they're rock solid.

- Install the later Nippondenso alternator. However, this will likely require modification to the alternator mounting - since the ND frame is, as I recall, larger than the CS-130 - and require the addition of an external regulator (Prestolite makes a good solid marine-grade external regulator, if you like. I think it's better than the Chrysler regulators.)

At least in this thread there's some doubt as to whether the later ND is a drop-in (it isn't,) I usually have to go through far more work to correct these misconceptions...
 
Is there anything wrong with the Delco alternators- and is it an easy swap? I have an HO (nippo alternator), but the local boneyard is littered with GM cars with the CS-130 and CS-144.
 
NOTHING 'wrong' with cs-130/144's, just that they wont work on your rig without a lot of work. renix = internally regulated, h.o. = regulated by the ecu.
 
right, the RENIX setup used GM alternators, the HO setup used Nippon-Denso alternators, totally different non-compatible non-interchange, you can upgrade within a type but cannot change to the other type without significant modifications
 
NOTHING 'wrong' with cs-130/144's, just that they wont work on your rig without a lot of work. renix = internally regulated, h.o. = regulated by the ecu.


An internally regulated alternator is the easyest alternator to switch to, everything that is need to make it work is already in the alternator. A single wire alternator, two wire or even a three wire internally regulated alternator is a piece of cake to put to work. You (OP) would not have a problem there. However, to change from the ND to a CS (AC Delco) alternator would require a change of alternator brackets and possibly,....depending on the alternator chosen will require some re-working of he wires.

Having said all that, Why would you want to change brand of alernator? I personally would not that. I upgraded to a WJ V8 alternator.
 
Some of the gm alternators put out more amperage than the stock unit, and v8 Grands are pretty rare at the local pik-a-part.

If I were to run the GM internally regulated unit, since the ND is regulated through the ECU, isn't going to set off a check engine light, right? (my XJ is a 96)
 
Nothing wrong with the Delco - I'd take a CS or SI series over an ND any day of the week!

However, it should be noted that "relieving" the PCM of the job of regulating the alternator's output will throw a persistent code and CEL/MIL (something like "Generator Field Not Switching," usually) and this will cause you to fail periodic inspections, if you are subject to such. It can also mask other faults - therefore, I wouldn't suggest doing it unless you had relatively unfettered access to a "code reader" - and used it every month or two, to see if there are any other codes hiding behind the one you always have.

This also applies if you use an ND alternator - but wire in a separate voltage regulator instead of using the PCM regulator circuit. Forewarned is forearmed.

RENIX doesn't care - if you use an externally-regulated alternator with an external regulator, so what? That doesn't pose a problem for RENIX controls. Therefore, you could adapt the mounting to accept an ND and use, say, a Prestolite external marine voltage regulator - but you'll still have to modify wiring, and I don't consider the ND to be as durable as the Delco (I've got experience with both in industrial applications - which is about as harsh of a "regular use" environment as you can get...)

Have a Delco "upwound" by a competent shop poses no particular trouble, you can even get kits of internals to do it yourself if you like. I leave that up to you (with the caveats explained above.)
 
While there are serviceability benefits to switching to a Delco generator (upgrades are easy and they're everywhere in the pik-a-part), I don't think it's worth the trouble to try to figure out a way to keep the PCM happy and whatnot. Well, the stocker works ok for now, but maybe I'll snag an alternator out of a v8 Grand if one shows up in the yard.
 
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