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HELP!!!Start then dies problem!!

JeepinJoe

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Herriman, Utah
OK, I've swapped out the following to resolve this. CPS/TPS, regrounded the TPS,pulled the ignition tumbler and tried to start with needle nose pliers, tried a different Ignition module. I've even wired the CPS directly. I need some help cause this XJ is doa in my driveway.
 
If it starts then dies, the usual suspects are the fuel pump ballast resistor, if there is one, and the ignition switch. Check for connections and continuity at the ballast resistor, which is usually on the driver's side inner fender. The 87 4.0 lacks one, and so does the 95, but it seems to have been present in most years in between. It can be bypassed too, which is of course a really quick way to test if it's the problem.
 
Does it die, if you move the switch from start to run? Does it run real rough, then crap out at idle and smoke? Can you play with the gas pedal some and get it too run at higher RPM´s? Throwing parts at it, before a good troubleshoot, rarley produces results. I´ve had a couple of pre 90, XJ´s crap out, a various times, much more often, it´s something basic and not a sensor. Ran an 87 (hard) from new, until a year ago (rolled) only replaced, plugs, cap, cables, exhaust, u-joints, some front end parts, fuel regulator, EGR and some vacume lines. Most of the troubles, I encountered in the motor control circuits, were in a connector someplace.
Have an 88 now, the dealer replaced some sensors (and gave up), I bought it and finally found an oily connector was most of the problem. Another was a bent pin in a connector, another was, some burnt wiring, to the O2, temp. sensor and knock sensor. Could be a sensor, but often it´s something basic.
Have you checked the fuel pressure? Most any kind of pressure gauge will work, with a scale going up to a little above thirty. Eye protection, safety conciderations, are important when messing with fuel system. Have somebody standing by, to kill the switch fast, a fire extiguisher handy.
I leave a jumper, tied to my balast resistor, just in case. A bad balast resistor will often let it start, but not run for long.
 
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Does it die, if you move the switch from start to run? YES!!And the new ignition switch did not solve the problem! So time for a hot wire to the fuel pump fix.
 
I had the same exact problem with my '88. Started just fine and then immediately ran out of juice. I suspected a bad fuel pump until my Dad's buddy pointed out the fuel pump relay.

Since my AC was discharged, I swapped the AC relay with the fuel pump relay and she started just fine....and stayed started.

If memory serves, the four relays are on the pass side of the engine under a black cover that is about 3" x 6". I couldn't tell you which relay is which though...that info I have long since forgotten.

Good luck.
 
Not so fast! If it runs in start and dies in run, with the other parts you've replaced, I expect it is the fuel supply. The fuel pump gets power from one source in 'start' and then switches to a different power source in 'run'. Look at your 'run' circuit, starting with the fuel pump relay.
 
This also was the culprit on a friends. The relay is in the bank of for relays on the passenger fender. I can't remember what one is what right now. they are all Identical units and is seems like the farthest ahead was the fuel pump, but not certain.

gw204 said:
I had the same exact problem with my '88. Started just fine and then immediately ran out of juice. I suspected a bad fuel pump until my Dad's buddy pointed out the fuel pump relay.

Since my AC was discharged, I swapped the AC relay with the fuel pump relay and she started just fine....and stayed started.

If memory serves, the four relays are on the pass side of the engine under a black cover that is about 3" x 6". I couldn't tell you which relay is which though...that info I have long since forgotten.

Good luck.
 
The fuel pump relay, is usually the second from the rear. The 30 pin is always hot and runs through a fusible link at the starter relay.
 
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