xj won't idle help

i have a 96 xj,, changed the thermostat 2day, went from a 195 to a 180.while uder the hood i decided to wash the engine.i used some engine degreaser and did like i was suppose to do.after i finished i went ahead and put some injector cleaner in the full fuel tank. i then drove to my moms house ,about 5 miles away.when i left the jeep wouldn't idle for crap and had problems staying in the proper gear[auto].what did i do??????????i've checked the vacume lines all hooked up and no leaks. what else sould i check. no engine codes are popping up.

You shorted out your throttle position sensor, its on the back side of the throttle body, change it out and you should be fine, when ya put the new one on i'd put some di-electric grease on it to water proof it, i did that on all my connections after shorting out the TPS.

Later

Had the same problem. My money is defineatly on the TPS getting wet. If you still can't get it running right after a day then I'd just go ahead and replace it... it runs about 30 bucks and is a quick and ez job.

TPS problem symptoms I had:

Idle irratic and stalling

Transmission shifting early and not down shifting

I'm with the TPS as well -- especially if you used a "gunk" or "engine brite" sort of soaking solvent to clean your engine --
You've managed to deposit a film on the internals of the TPS - time for a new one!

A little stable grease (silicone based dielectric, as mentioned above) on the seal will help to augment the performance of that weak area, hopefully precluding similar issues in the future

Well I might as well ask this..

What is the best way to clean your engine, bar removing it?

What needs to be covered up?

I clean a cool/cold engine by letting it soak a while in foamed Castrol Super clean rinsing with a conventional powerwasher using cool/cold water...
... it's been my observation that vapor (steam or aerosol) should be avoided when practicable.

Specific areas to avois are open filter elements and the TPS seal area . Most everything under the hood can tollerate the process quite well though I prefer to cover the TPS end of the TB, and the back of the o2 sensor with foil before applying any solvents (if cleaning of the TB is necessary I recommend a prompt re-lubrication of the throttle shafts with non-silicone oil - my favorites are the teflon-enhanced thicker gun oils).

Soaking when cool may take a bit more effort or cleaner, but you will greatly reduce the vapor and "hot componant drawing cool solvents through seals" issues...

why clean it at all, unless your trying to find the source of an oil leak?

thanks to all on te tps, that was it. allthough i wish it was only 30 bucks..... my jeep was built 9-96 which in jeeps eyes is a 97. mine cost 79 bucks,that was after i hassled them down from 98 bucks.still puzzled on the thermo?????it only runs at 210 regaurdless of thermo temp.

a lower temp thermo wont necessarly give you a lower operating temp. it only opens sooner. there are a few theads that discuss the difference between the 180 and 195 thermo. try a search.

btw, the 4.0 is supposed to run at 210.

Don't steam clean!!

Is very risky to steam blast any electronic engine. Too many electrical connectors and sensors that can have water infiltratration. Is not designed to resist water of that volume and pressure....esp if your vehicle has a few years on it. Spot cleaning is the only real way anymore, and only then if you are careful.

In addition, is NOT a good thing to change from the stock thermostat temp rating on any computer controlled vehicle, unless you have wasted money (at least on a Jeep) on a Jet chip or similar that actually does sometimes change that sensing parameter. You discovered that the temp will usually still rise to where it was before- just opens sooner and takes longer to get there.

I second the fact that all 4.0's run at 210. Mine has run that way since 0 miles. Asked DC about it and they told me that is the way it is designed.