Replacing tie-rod ends & what else?

99 XJ Limited
Automatic
4WD
190k miles
all stock daily driver

Hi all,

Recent troubleshooting here led to realization I need to replace my steering box bracket, as well as the tie rod ends.

My googling tells me that while I'm there, I may as well replace ball joints too. I've never greased or maintained any of it, so I don't doubt its time.

I believe I have to remove wheel hubs to do ball-joints, so might as well do axle u-joints? ie am I 70% of the way there already?
If I do axle u-joints do I need to do drivetrain u-joints at the same time?

Also, as for parts, I believe I have the list of items I need for steering box bracket, TRE, u-joints and ball-joints. Hoping for a sanity check/education:

• JCRoffroad steering box spacer
• I also need replacement bolts for the spacer. google says 3x (grade8) 7/16" - 14 4in
• Spicer-706944X ball joint set of two (upper and lower) x 2 (inner and outer)
• Spicer-5-760X-U-Joint-Kit x 2 (left/right axle)

Tie rod ends - I read mixed reviews on Moog, but I can't find Spicer. Moog on Rockauto shows:

• MOOG DS1238 - right outer, right hand thread
• MOOG ES3095R - Right Inner, right hand thread
• MOOG ES3094L - Left outer, left hand thread
• Moog ES3096L - Left inner, left hand thread

I don't think I need the actual rod or adjusting sleeves right? They don't look worn, bent or rusty and I'm assuming they can be removed and reused without issue. I'm going stock to stock, and I don't offroad at all. It's my DD.

Tools wise, I know I will need various pullers/BFHs/etc. Will worry about this once I know what I will be doing.

For now I am trying to scope what all I should replace, and what makes sense to do now while I have the front end apart. :dunno:

Thank you all (as usual) for your help!

All the specialized tools can be "rented" at AutoZone etc. shops. You pay for them, use them and bring them back for a credit and it doesn't matter if you break a tool, they'll give you another to use.

Probably a good idea to soak the adjusting sleeves and bolts with PB Blaster for a day or two before you dive into this. Some anti-seize on the threads will pay dividends in the future. You don't need to dip the threads into anti-seize, just a thin brushed-on line down the threads will do. I know from doing my tie-rod ends and stuff recently that the Moog DS1238 is some cheap, Chinese, Federal-Mogul/Moog off-brand, but I've had really good results with Moog's American-made stuff in the past. While you're under the Jeep, check the other bushings (sway bar, sway bar links, etc.) and give the track bar a good shake. (Death wobble SUCKS!) It should be nice and solid. I wouldn't worry with the rest of the U-joints (for now.) When you get the angry sparrows, you'll know. Also budget for a trip to the alignment shop to re-set toe, at a minimum. I have access to a really nice Hunter alignment rack at the school, so guess what I used? Man, I'm gonna miss that thing...

Tie rod ends are one project.

Ball joints are another project.

Unit bearings & u-joints are another project.

If doing ball joints you may want to look at the unit bearings & u-joints at the same time because the hubs have to come out to do the ball joints.

MOOG quality has gone downhill over the years. I have had MOOG ball joints fail in 27,000 miles.

I would use Spicer ball joints & u-joints and Timken or SKF unit bearings. I have NAPA steering parts in mine, the more expensive ones, not their lower line which is MOOG.

Thanks folks.

Looks like I'll stop by NAPA for my TREs. Will hold off on the other stuff for now.