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#7 fuse on 1984-9188 AMC style fuse panal

Sullie

NAXJA Forum User
Location
el paso tx
I own a 1988 XJ, I am going to put the symptoms of my Jeep in bullet format and hopefully someone can help me.


o when i turn the key over the 10 AMP fuse for the #7 (Parking lamps,
Headlight warning chime/ buzzer, instrument panel light dimmer) keeps
blowing

o no parking lights or brake-lights when key is on and brake is depressed

o left turn signal works intermittently, right works regularly.

Here is a picture of the highlighted fuse i am referring too
2rzri48.jpg


Here is a picture of my fuse box
2zi7xj9.jpg
 
Last edited:
I just noticed that the previous owner on the, #6 fuse (Brakes/ Hazards) has a 30 AMP fuse in it when it calls for a 15 AMP. Im going to replace this with the right size fuse, but would that cause the #7 fuse to blow?
 
Do you have wiring diagrams for your Jeep?
 
That fuse shouldn't blow the other fuse. But it would be good to put it back to standard.

Is your jeep standard or automatic ? This problem reminds me of my 85 fuse box ruined by years of a leaking clutch master.

For the brake lights check the switch on the pedal those switches like to melt the plug. Most of the early xj I see have those plug wires cut and spliced.

What's the radio wiring look like? Had someone mix up the ground and it would blow the interior and dash fuse.





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So i spent all afternoon tracing wires to ignition to the break lights.

This connection going from the fuse box to the ignition switch has power go from the 3 wire side (Black/ yellow wire), tracing wire further down it goes to the brake light switch with the (blue/ yellow wire).
11lm0kn.jpg
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the (blue/yellow wire has no power going to it.
5by15j.jpg
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further more everytime i depress the turn my lights on the #7 fuse blows and i tried to jump the power wire to the brake light switch and it kept blowing my #13 fuse.

yes i have a manual transmission
1988 jeep Cherokee xj

PLEASE HELP
 
Your brake light switch is fried.

Your running lights sockets are likely corroded.

Wiring may be chaffed.

Grounds are bad.

You still have your C101 which needs to be eliminated.

Your connectors are corroded..............headlight harness right behind front headlight.




There is no shop manuals shared here but they are given out like candy on other forums, look around.




Sorry, but you are going to have to go through your wiring, it's a mess.








I too have the 88...........you're just going to have to dig in.
 
I just don't understand how I can be getting power from fuse to connection , but not from connection to brake switch. My switch is good, did a continuity test on it and it passed
 
Ok, I dont know what i did but the breaklights are now working, however now the turn signals and reverse lights arnt working lol, talk about chasing grimlins.
 
I have the electric troubleshooting guides, might even cover this year but I'm out of town working for the next week so my library of books are out of reach.

Honestly I think you've got damage to your fuse box from leaking fluids, but more than that there is something shorting out the park lights,
brake lights I'd think Is in the switch or plug.

I start by looking at the headlight harness and tail light harness, seems like something is corroded or frayed.
Nothing should cause the ignition to on to overload the park lamps on its own. Something has to be powering on too or be making a connection.
When my radio was wired wrong the radio would blow the instrument lights when the head lights were turned on. My problem was one of the previous owners cut the plug and wired it by hand, guy I bought it from tried to help out by putting my radio in and got a ground wrong.

Check the headlight switch too those like to melt in the right conditions. But shouldn't be dependent on the ignition switch being on.
I have no clue about the c101 plug these jeeps have but they cause all kinds of problems, just follow the knowledgeable advice on that one.

It's going to be a pain to sort. Might keep it in the back of your mind to look out for a dash harness and maybe headlight harness for your year just in case trouble shooting doesn't work out. I've found it easier to scrap the old failing electrics and install good condition harness over trying to recondition it. My case was extreme from decades of previous owners cutting n' splicing and leaking fluid.






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Reverse lights are a switch on the passengers side of the transmission. Not sure what route it take through the jeep. Were they working before?

When my fuse box was screwed I'd swap the flasher relay things around and some times get the turn signals working. Do the hazards work?


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does anyone have a picture of the reverse light switch thats on the transmission, i got all the lights working except the reverse which, i will look at the reverse light switch( is there a continuity test i can do on that to make sure shes ok, if so how?) and the rear service lights.

correct me if im wrong but the rear red service lights should come on when i turn on my head lights, i looked at my headllight switch, she looks ok, is there a test to make sure?
 
If you have the 4.0 you'll have Peugeot ba10, that switch will be on the drivers side two wire plug probably . If it the 2.5 it'll be the ax5 and that's plug on the passenger side with two wire plug

If you have a fuse labeled transmission it may be for the reverse lights.

The rear lights are on a harness the plugs in behind the quarter panel, those plugs can become surprisingly messed up.


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so i got under the jeep today to look for the brake-light switch which i was told was on the drivers side since i have a straight 6 4.0L, right?

here is a picture of what i found, is this it? i was told it was a two wire connection, the only connection that is close is a 4 wire connection that leads to this...
2lxcaci.jpg
 
Doing some research this does look like switch in question, now how do I do a continuity test on this sensor with a multi meter
 
there may have been a stub harness. 4 pin connector but only 2 are populated. should be Black w/Yellow wire and Brown wire.

Black with yellow will be 12v feed

test would be no continuity in any gear but reverse. reverse will show continuity
 
there may have been a stub harness. 4 pin connector but only 2 are populated. should be Black w/Yellow wire and Brown wire.

Black with yellow will be 12v feed

test would be no continuity in any gear but reverse. reverse will show continuity
I plugged my multimeter into they black,yellow and brown wire with meter on 20v but got no reading...
All my fuses look good. Anything else it could be

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