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Heater "T" Housing Source?

desertred

NAXJA Forum User
I'm looking for a replacement/alternative for the "Tee" fitting in my heater hose arrangement. The only source that I have found is Team Cherokee
here. 50+ bucks (shipping included) just seems a bit outrageous for this fitting.

Does anyone have another source for this item or an alternative setup? I've searched Rock Auto and the major auto parts stores but, unless they are calling it by some weird name, they don't appear to carry this item.
 
Where is this "t" located as they haven't been on any XJ I've owned!
 
Yes, RENIX. Sorry, I should have specified that it is for an 88 4.0. Basically, the Tee ties the heater hose from the water pump to the heater core and the down hose from the coolant reservoir together.
 
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Just get a brass plumbers T.
 
No, the heater control valve is a separate item. If you go to the link that I posted in my original post, there is a diagram (second picture) that displays the heater hose setup. I am referring to item #8 in that diagram. The heater control value is item #3 and available from multiple sources. I'm looking for item #8.
 
Here's what it looks like:

heatervalvesmallru9dm0.jpg


I'd just use some brass barbed fittings and some heater hose. You should be able to make one for half the price.
 
Any issues that someone with more metallurgy knowledge than me (very little) might be able to share regarding the use of copper or brass with coolant (corrosion, plugging, etc.)?

Radiators have been made from copper and brass since the very beginning of the water cooled internal combustion engine.

Only reason they are made from anything else these days is to reduce cost and/or weight.

If you can supply me with some basic dimensions and can wait a week or two, I can make you one from stainless for just the cost of shipping.
 
Good point (oh, the things we tend to overlook). :eek: Thank you for the very kind offer, but I scoped out the local home supplies store the afternoon and think I can solder a copper fitting together for $20-23. I would be doing this in conjunction with a radiator hose and T-stat gasket replacement (both leaking) and with unseasonably nice weather here, I would like to get that done this weekend.
 
One thing to consider is how to bead the ends to ensure the hoses don't slide off. You could use some barbed fittings for the hose connections.
 
Yep. The home supplies stores have a stubbed copper elbow meant for PEX type tubing. It's not barbed as nicely as a brass of PVC type fitting, but a clamp can squeeze the hose over the raised portion of the stub that may do the trick. I'm just hoping that the pipe diameter is close to the size of the current Tee fitting. I won't know for sure until I get the old one off. Heading for the project zone now.

Link to stubbed elbow.
 
I think I have an extra, used of course. I'm in Golden.
 
After pulling to current T fitting off, it was in a lot better condition than I anticipated. The rust was just surface rust, so I cleaned it up and all is well. The stubbed elbow I linked to above would not have worked, as the raised portion is to small for the heater hose.

The bad news is that my T-stat is still leaking after installing a new housing and FelPro gasket - even worse than the original leak. :mad:
 
I did away with that thing yeeears ago on my 88. Different radiator, couple of longer heater hoses, open system. Works much better. Heater core always hot. Gets rid of the pressure bottle and heater valve altogether. Coolant flow through just like 97+ model, much more efficient. Of course if you're intent is keeping it all original, there's the rub.
 
I did away with that thing yeeears ago on my 88. Different radiator, couple of longer heater hoses, open system. Works much better. Heater core always hot. Gets rid of the pressure bottle and heater valve altogether. Coolant flow through just like 97+ model, much more efficient. Of course if you're intent is keeping it all original, there's the rub.

Did the same thing and never looked back.
 
Any issues that someone with more metallurgy knowledge than me (very little) might be able to share regarding the use of copper or brass with coolant (corrosion, plugging, etc.)?
Just dont use coolant with OAT in it. Green coolant is ok, and shouldn't have OAT additives (OAT additives degrade copper long term). As stated above, the heater core should be copper in your '88 as well.
 
i always have trouble keeping the thermostat housing from leaking. i usually just gently tighten the bolts until it stops leaking. assuming the thermostat is properly mounted.
 
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