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How to torque connecting link nuts and bolts

phred

NAXJA Forum User
Hi everyone

I'm replacing the bushings on my sway bar and connecting links with polyurethane and have some questions about torquing the bolts and nuts.

The FSM lists a spec of 27 ft-lb for the nut on the end of the connecting link that attaches to the sway bar. I can get only to about 20 ft-lbs before the nut runs past the end of the threads on the passenger side link. I wondered what the click was I was getting with each revolution of the nut and finally figured out the nut was just spinning around the shaft. Should I replace the connecting link and nut or just back the nut back until it is fully threaded and match the driver's side link to it?

Then for the lower end of the connecting link, the torque for the bolt holding it to the axle bracket is 55 ft-lb. I torqued it to about 40 ft-lb but the bushing was getting so distorted that I quit to see what I could find out here. The bushing is squishing out on one side of the bolt head and it just doesn't look right to me.

Thanks for any assistance.

---------------------------------
1990 Jeep Cherokee 2WD
 
Figured out both problems.

The nut on the top of the link was not cinching up because the threads were stripped out of the nut and off the threaded end of the link. Got a replacement at the salvage yard and took care of that.

The other problem is more annoying. Turns out the metal tube that goes inside the rubber bushing at the lower end of the sway bar connecting link has about half the wall thickness of the OEM version. No way will it hold up to the 70 ft-lb torque specified by the FSM. When I finally got it back out the metal looked like macaroni. Thank you Daystar.

Anyone know of a brand of bushing that uses thicker walled metal inserts?

Thanks.
 
Here's the answer I got from Quadratec on Daystar bushing torques. Nice people. I'm posting this for anyone else who installs their own polyurethane bushings so they will know that the factory torque specs don't necessaryily apply and to be careful. I can't be the only person who will ever run into this situation.

--------------------------
Allen,
I'm sorry for the confusion. The factory torque specs are just that, for
factory parts. The industry standard for Polly products is you tighten them
down until they just start to distort, then back off one half turn. I apologize that Daystar did not include this information but they may assume everything to be professionally installed, as do most vendors. Again, I apologize for this problem and I'll have another set shipped to you to complete your vehicle.

----- Original Message -----
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:25 PM
Subject: Quadratec Online Form


> On 2004-11-02 at 23:16:48,
> The following information was submitted:
> >From Host: 172.195.5.4
> Model = XJ
> Year = 90
> Comments = Hi -
> I bought Daystar brand bushings for the swaybar and the connecting links
for my 1990 Jeep Cherokee. When I attempted to torque the bolt that holds
the lower end of the link, the metal bushing inside the rubber bushing
collapsed at about 40 ft-lbs. The factory spec is 70 ft-lbs. When I
compared the Daystar metal bushing to the original, I found that the Daystar
metal was only about half as thick as the original. No wonder it collapsed
at less than factory-spec torque. At a minimum, Daystar should have given
torque specs for their part in their instructions. They did not. The real
solution would be for Daystar to provide a part that would hold up to the
factory torque spec so that this would not happen. I am not happy with the
result. I am now running with an old original bushing on one side, and a
Daystar replacement on the other, torqued to about 45 ft-lbs. I'm worried
that the bolt will get loose on the low torque side or that the imbalance
will cause the Jeep to handle strangely.
>
> Would appreciate some help on this.
>
> Thanks.
 
Man, is that a BS response if I ever heard one. If there are no instructions with a replacement that is incapable of accepting factory-specified torque values, how the heck would a "professional" know how to install it any better than a shade tree mechanic?

More to the point, the factory torques them on so they won't loosen up and back off. If Daystar's S.O.P. is to tighten until they start to crush then back off half a turn ... what prevents the nut from backing off?
 
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