ENGINE STALLS!!!

okay were to begin...

I put new cam, lifters, pushrods, timing set, valves alternator... to many things,

I ran it for like a week it was running great, then it stalled as I was driving one day. I waited a minute it started right up and drove great. couple days later samething happened I had to wait like 20 min or so then it fired right up. People told me it could be my distributor... I had already changed the cap the plugs and wires. So I changed the distributor plate that the rotor sits on, and also I changed the ignition module, it started up thought it was fixed.

drove it for like 10 min and it stalled, hasnt started up again and today I just changed the crankshaft position sensor on top of the bell housing. that didnt do it either? the check engine light comes on. I waited and counted the blinks to find the code, it read 55.

in my book that code means:

END OF CODE OUTPUT trouble code sequence complete?

I have no idea what that means and what is going on with my XJ. its a 95 4.0l

anyone?

Somehow, you're not getting the code. A 55 is normal for no codes. Try it again or get a code reader or a scan tool and extract the code; if the check engine light came on, there is at minimum a stored code.

Post the exact code number here for comment.

While you're at it, check for spark by pulling a plug, grounding it, cranking and visualing the spark. Looking for a strong, blue, snapping spark. Verifying spark is my job #1 for a no-start.

If you have strong spark, try spraying a bit of starting fluid into the intake. If it starts and runs momentarily, you have a fuel delivery problem, not a spark problem.

A fried cam sensor can also result in a no-start, although more rare than a crank sensor. It can be tested with a manual and a meter.

But you really need those codes..........

is the check engine light coming on when its not running? i couldnt tell from your post, but if so that is normal. hows your ignition coil? i agree with birchlakexj for checking for spark. ignition coils do very wierd things. if you have no spark, pull the connector off the ignition coil and hook a multimeter up to it. if you have 12V turning on and off while cranking, you got a bad coil.

trippled said:

if you have no spark, pull the connector off the ignition coil and hook a multimeter up to it. if you have 12V turning on and off while cranking, you got a bad coil.

Click to expand...

Please explain more. If your 12V tuurns on and off at the coil, doesn't that mean that your voltage supply to the coil is bad? :shhh: