Longer and Much Stronger Wheel Lug Studs Upgrade

Tally_XJ · Mar 20, 2011

Built2Flex said:
I never heard of someone over 30 years of experience not hear of that before. At the garage I work at it's a regular thing. I've never experienced warpage from doing this.

You have now . . .

Built2Flex · Mar 20, 2011

Tally_XJ said:
You have now . . .

Touche'. Et tu Tally_XJ...et tu.

markaboo929 · Mar 20, 2011

...almost there myself 27 years-but oh wait I now do work on Semi's Volvo/Mack dealer-I have never used heat either just a Hammer-AND I lubricate my wheel studs-GM says not to,BUT have you ever broke wheel studs due to them rusting and being Seized? I have I used to work/live in Mass-I ALLWAYS use the coper anti-seize made by 3M I have NEVER had one wheel get lose or wobble on the studs-I even used to re-check the wheel torque every 2 weeks-I gave up after 3 months of doing that they just never lost torque!!!!
http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html
Let the debate begin!!!:speepin:

HoneyBadger · Mar 20, 2011

Built2Flex said:
It is not easy. Usually they require heat and a lot of force to remove. Nothing a 20 ton press can't handle. But if you're attempting at home...good luck. Need more than just a BFH.

A manual u-joint/ball joint press will remove or install any wheel stud from brake rotors, hubs, unit bearings, etc. A hammer works too in a pinch. Doesn't even need to be a BFH. I've never had to use a hydraulic press and I've installed and replaced hundreds of wheel studs. It's not like we're talking about a stud that's 20 inches long. The mating surfaces are generally less than a few CM.

techno1154 · Mar 20, 2011

Tally_XJ said:
I hope this was you making a sarcastic remark?? I have never ever ever in 30 years needed more than a hammer to remove a wheel stud. And I have never ever used anything more than a 1/2" air gun and a sacrificial nut to pull the new ones through.

Were you working on a semi-tractor or something??

X2

Only on new studs tightened with a toerque wrench that the nuts needed re-torqued. I am sure that an impact wrench that step could be eleminated. Big trucks are a different story. I have never worked on one but I have seen heat used to remove the wheel nuts.

In short, I will not use heat on the XJ axle. No matter hoow stuck the wheel nuts are, I am sure a good fitting wrench, a breaker bar and maybe a cheater bar would get them loose,...but then again I have never had one stuck so hard the a 1/2" breaker bar would not remove it.

Tally_XJ · Mar 20, 2011

techno1154 said:
X2

In short, I will not use heat on the XJ axle. No matter how stuck the wheel nuts are, I am sure a good fitting wrench, a breaker bar and maybe a cheater bar would get them loose,...but then again I have never had one stuck so hard the a 1/2" breaker bar would not remove it.

We aren't talking about the wheel lug NUT here. Just the wheel studs. We were talking about using just a hammer to drive the stud out of the axle hub flange after the wheel nuts and wheels have been removed.

OverlandZJ · Feb 6, 2013

Thanks guys.. i needed the part numbers in this thread.

rabies · Apr 28, 2014

dorman studs x20 is $60 on ebay
napa studs x20 is $40 from napa.

i think il just buy steel cragar wheels and call it good

BasslicksXJ · Feb 14, 2017

I know it's an old thread, but for those of you looking for them, they're $15.20 + shipping on rockauto.com for 20

montanaman · Feb 14, 2017

Tally_XJ said:
The rear drum setup uses a stud with a knurl diameter of .618" thousandths. This may make it difficult to pull the new studs through but I think it will work.

Hydraulic press or BFH.

Longer and Much Stronger Wheel Lug Studs Upgrade

Tally_XJ

NAXJA Forum User

Built2Flex

NAXJA Forum User

markaboo929

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HoneyBadger

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techno1154

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Tally_XJ

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OverlandZJ

NAXJA Member # 101

rabies

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BasslicksXJ

NAXJA Forum User

montanaman

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