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front axle options...

well, if you go with the Yota 8" rear, a Waggy front D44 would already have the matching bolt pattern. The Yota 8" is 6x5.5" too isn't it?

I've heard that stock Waggy 44 shafts are actually weaker than D30 shafts due to the way they neck down around the splines, but some aftermarket shafts would take care of that.

have you thought about alloys and HD u-joints for your D30? what exactly are you breaking? the shaft or the yokes?
 
since 44's use the same 297/760 joints as a D30, would the yokes on a D44 shaft be any stronger than those of a D30 though? running full-circle clips on the caps? Personally I'd probably just go with some alloys and HD u-joints if you're not having any other problems with the 30.

If you put some Spidertrax spacers on the 8.8", it'll match the Waggy front perfectly.
 
allthingsoffroad said:
all yokes except one... and i have ran the spicer ujoints i have an 8.8 rear but the waggy is gunna be a little wide

If you get stronger alloy shafts, then you will also need stronger U-joints.

dont full throttle asault at full clock turned.
 
ashmanjeepxj said:
If you get stronger alloy shafts, then you will also need stronger U-joints.

dont full throttle asault at full clock turned.

Right, get OX u-joints or CTMs with your alloy shafts, that is if you don't drive alot of pavement with your Jeep. These aftermarket joints weren't made for lots of street use. Don't put the the $ into a manual hub kit for the 30, you are alot better off getting a dana 44 up front then. You could also just run Spicer 760 u-joints with alloy shafts, but a busted u-joint will many times take out your shaft and if not, will stretch out the yoke/ear enough where it will have lost lots of its strength and not hold up for much longer. If you do run OX, CTMs, or Yukon super alloy u-joints, then grease them alot if you don't have manual hubs, otherwise, upgrade to a dana 44 if you are breaking, adjust your driving style, or get a smaller tire. Where are you breaking them mostly, when turning?

Troy
 
Jeepin Jason said:
since 44's use the same 297/760 joints as a D30, would the yokes on a D44 shaft be any stronger than those of a D30 though? running full-circle clips on the caps? Personally I'd probably just go with some alloys and HD u-joints if you're not having any other problems with the 30.

If you put some Spidertrax spacers on the 8.8", it'll match the Waggy front perfectly.


yes they use the same axle joint the difference is in the material around the axle joint.the inner "C" is bigger so the yoke is bigger .it can take a bigger hit with out breaking.not much more but some.
 
Wil Badger said:
yes they use the same axle joint the difference is in the material around the axle joint.the inner "C" is bigger so the yoke is bigger .it can take a bigger hit with out breaking.not much more but some.

Wrong, try again.
 
um, there's way more space around the yokes on a D30 than on a 44...

edit: but you're limited by the upper hub bolt on a D30.

DCP00712.jpg


uturn05.jpg
 
Last edited:
BrettM said:
he doesn't do the modified 760x joints anymore, and the new ones he makes are not cheap. the cheapest good joint now is the Yukon/Jantz joint.

???????? Last time I checked a D44 u joint was still the same as a D30 one and unless things have changed Bobby still makes the 300M u joints for $145. You cant beat a lifetime guarantee on a ujoint. Now idk how much yukon oints are and if they have lt guarantees or not but im willing to beat they'll break way more often then a longfield will.
CTM's are $200 btw
 
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