ZJ V8 steering pump, Durango box, and hydroboost?

SBpunk said:

Not really concerned with the tapping its the turning radius. Both Durango boxes I've put on my MJ's have had a pretty significant reduction with the turning radius. There's a writeup around here on how to rectify it but its been a few years since I looked into it.

Click to expand...

You remove a snap ring from near the input end of the main bore and machine or grind off some bumps inside the aluminum end cap at the front end of the main bore. This allows the same degrees of rotation as a standard box. You will also need to move the mounting points away from the frame rail a little further to compensate for the bigger chunk.

ftwelder said:

You remove a snap ring from near the input end of the main bore and machine or grind off some bumps inside the aluminum end cap at the front end of the main bore. This allows the same degrees of rotation as a standard box. You will also need to move the mounting points away from the frame rail a little further to compensate for the bigger chunk.

Click to expand...

I shoot you a PM don't want to hijack if you're ok with it?

SBpunk said:

I shoot you a PM don't want to hijack if you're ok with it?

Click to expand...

sure,

ftwelder said:

You remove a snap ring from near the input end of the main bore and machine or grind off some bumps inside the aluminum end cap at the front end of the main bore. This allows the same degrees of rotation as a standard box. You will also need to move the mounting points away from the frame rail a little further to compensate for the bigger chunk.

Click to expand...

While I am doing this, I'm installing a weld-on spacer/reinforcement plate from C-ROK, as I had great experience with them on my last XJ way back in 02. I elected for the stock width piece, even though they make one specifically for the Durango swap.

I did this so, if the Durango swap doesn't work out for me, I can still use a stock box. I will install some hardened washers between the inner side of the reinforement and the box, should have no problem.

In all reality, I probably should have just gone with the Durango reinforcement plate, as installing the stock box roughly 1/2" inboard of its stock position wouldn't hurt anything, especially with the sever beefing-up that is going to be present when I've welded that onto/through the unibody, and then welded RoughStuff reinforcement plates fore-aft.

SBpunk said:

I shoot you a PM don't want to hijack if you're ok with it?

Click to expand...

If that's about the particulars of doing the clearancing of the Dakota box, could you guys please post the info here as well? Pics if you got 'em.

burntkat said:

If that's about the particulars of doing the clearancing of the Dakota box, could you guys please post the info here as well? Pics if you got 'em.

Click to expand...

Are you taking about adding in the washers to push it out to clear the unibody?

If so all you need to do is add a few washers to get it to clear. I don't have any pics of mine but its pretty straight forward. Hindsight from doing mine I would have figured a way top actually weld the exact amount needed to the spacer instead of using washers.

No, clearancing the inner parts.

burntkat said:

No, clearancing the inner parts.

Click to expand...

at the end of the box, there is a dome shaped aluminum cover, approximately 3-4" in diameter. there is a retaining ring holding in. look for a small hole in the steering box near the ring and stick a punch in there to knock the ring out of the groove. then the cap should come out. there are some stops on the inside of that domed cap, you just grind them smooth so they no longer inhibit your turning radius.
Keep in mind not all the boxes have the stops. you should turn the input shaft and count the revs and see if it has the stops or not. It should turn something like 3 1/2 times IIRC, but it's been like 5 years so i'm likely wrong.