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35 ABS to 44 NON ABS

mojojojo

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Gresham, Oregon
so i got the swap done this weekend. Took my 90 limited from a D35 w/ABS to a 44 from an 87 w/out. i have searched and can't seem to find the answer. what is the correct thing to do with the ABS system?
 
Get rid of the entire thing and swap in a booster and MC from a 95 or 96! That is by far the best choice(also what I did with my 91). If you're looking just to get rid of the light, pull the ABS fuse.
 
mojojojo said:
i'm reading that you just can't do that with pre 91's with the bendix crap? this is what i can't seem to find a solid answer on.

You might not be able to then with that system. With the newer systems, its possible you can.

coupleaxjs said:
Whoa.... don't unplug the pump, or you will have no power breaks!

Maybe for the Bendix system, but a few of my good friends have on other vehicles with no effects on braking.
 
so what are my easiest options?

swap in a non ABS system from...what years? what all parts do i need?

anything i can do with my current set up that doesn't require re-inventing the wheel? (or wont get me killed)
 
im not sure a swap is the easiest, or best thing to do. If you dont want the abs, leave the system how it is as long as the service brakes work. The abs light will most likely come on but there should be no problems as far as the service brakes.
 
mojojojo said:
lil bump, sorry, frustrated:gonnablow , need some answers.

Sorry, me sleepy.

The best thing to do is swap in a booster and MC from a 95 or 96 because it's a bolt in. But, it's still a lot more work, since you will have to adapt the brake lines and yank the old system out. There are a few write ups and threads that already exist. I personally don't trust the bendix system. It will fail on you at some point and you will be F'd. Also the parts are expensive. But I still have all my old stuff if you need any. How much effort do you want to put into this?
 
I too am going to shout at you from the "swap out the master and booster" fence. I'm going to tell you to to use a WJ master/booster though. You can get one from an 03/04. You can get one from www.car-parts.com for about $50 shipped, it will be in much better shape than a 8-9 year old xj booster, and here's a writeup on installing it.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/

The writeup tells you to use a 1/4" spacer behind the booster, you dont need to do that, it's fine to skip that step.

Do that and rip the bendix ABS stuff out before it kills you or someone else. If you have questions or problems on the swap, PM me and we can talk voice, I've done it several times recently.
 
cal said:
I too am going to shout at you from the "swap out the master and booster" fence. I'm going to tell you to to use a WJ master/booster though. You can get one from an 03/04. You can get one from www.car-parts.com for about $50 shipped, it will be in much better shape than a 8-9 year old xj booster.

Yea, I bought mine new from the parts store, a bit more expensive, but who really wants to skimp on brakes or take the chance. I haven't tried the WJ swap.
 
I think we can tackle this swap pretty easily Rod, between cal and that other writeup I sent you, I think it'll be pretty easy.

As for the bendix system, we pulled the fuses out of it, and the brakes still seemed somewhat normal on the short test drive we did, I wonder if the pump still stays active when you do it that way...
 
coupleaxjs said:
Yea, I bought mine new from the parts store, a bit more expensive, but who really wants to skimp on brakes or take the chance. I haven't tried the WJ swap.


I like the WJ swap because the assembly is a little shorter - you don't have to move your washer fluid like you do putting in a later model XJ master/booster. The brake lines output on the driverside of the master, so you need to make new lines, but thats very easy to do. I can do the entire swap in an hour start to finish, if I have all of the parts in advance. (Somehow I *always* forget to buy nuts to mount the booster, or leave my flare tool somewhere and have to go get it..)
 
WheelinJR said:
As for the bendix system, we pulled the fuses out of it, and the brakes still seemed somewhat normal on the short test drive we did, I wonder if the pump still stays active when you do it that way...

There are two fuses, one for the ABS and another for the pump.

Disconnect the first and you disconnect the power to the ABS computer and still have power brakes.

Disconnect the other and you have standard non-assist brakes that are significantly diminshed in braking effect.

Make sure you pull the right one. And only one.
 
we only pulled the 2 fuses under the dash. does this mean i am somewhat o.k. to drive it? the pump is still working? assuming the bendix system doesn't decide to fail.
 
If you pulled 2 ABS fuses the ABS function will cease AND the pump will not work and you will soon lose pressure and have only basic non-power hydraulic brakes. You should have someone listen for the pump when you re-install the fuse. The fuse that should be pulled, is, IIRC, the ABS Batt fuse. The other needs to be replaced.

Pulling the wrong fuse can lead to some serious braking problems once the pressure is bled off from the accumulator. Make sure the pump is still pressurizing the system by putting the pump fuse back in.
 
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