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How hard is it to break the welds on the welded nut inside the frame rail? Is it just tacked on or really burned in. This bolt is from hell because it will not move for anything. It's been drowned in ATF and acetone, PB, I've applied heat, I've tried every kind of pliers, monkey wrench, Vise grip that I've got.
I wasn't able to see the weld nut from the bumper hole. I think some people have come through the floor. I had to drill mine through, took a couple of hours.
how did you cut the nut off from the bottom, i dont see how a sawzall will fit in the opening? i thought about the side but its not recommended i guess.
80$ + 10 minutes tops with a bitchin tig welder and the guy had the bolt out. Makes me really wish I had 220v so I could splurge on a good welder.
I'm letting the regear shop do the other side I'm not playing this game a second time in the small garage without a welder and torch.
I would say that was money well spent. The more you can keep your rig intact the better.
If you haven't already started soaking the other side, do it. Even if you are handing the challenge off to someone else.
If it were me, I would also hand them a set of new, OEM replacement bolts just to make sure they get the right hardware in there. It may not be convenient for them to go sourcing those bolts properly.
i know new bolts are a good idea, but these are 8.something per bolt, and a nut is 6$, not a fortune, but if the stock are in fairly good condition thats a win right?
i bought 3+ 1 nut when the driver side broke. i only used the one new one for the shackle and new nut. so 2 left for the other side. I hope they dont need them haha, they are good to keep handy.
on an off note i also threw on IRO shackle to the replaced leaf and she sits very even with the new stuff.
gotta get relocators that wont give me lift down the line for 45 angle
My perspective is that $8/bolt is money well spent for the sake of avoiding a mess 10-15 years down the line. Knowing the problem that occurs once these things seize up I want some good hardware in place.
Different expectations for different rigs may come into play here though.
80$ + 10 minutes tops with a bitchin tig welder and the guy had the bolt out. Makes me really wish I had 220v so I could splurge on a good welder.
I'm letting the regear shop do the other side I'm not playing this game a second time in the small garage without a welder and torch.
You *DO NOT* need 220 to run a welder. I use a Lincoln 3200HD on 120VAC with CO2 gas and it works great.
I built my SAS S10 with it. Multipass is your friend for the big stuff. Welding a nut onto a stud to remove it is child's play, I've done it many times.
I would say that was money well spent. The more you can keep your rig intact the better.
If you haven't already started soaking the other side, do it. Even if you are handing the challenge off to someone else.
If it were me, I would also hand them a set of new, OEM replacement bolts just to make sure they get the right hardware in there. It may not be convenient for them to go sourcing those bolts properly.
My perspective is that $8/bolt is money well spent for the sake of avoiding a mess 10-15 years down the line. Knowing the problem that occurs once these things seize up I want some good hardware in place.
Different expectations for different rigs may come into play here though.
Even great quality hardware can galvanically weld itself.
Your issue isn't a need for a replacement OEM bolt (it should be obvious that the bolt that rusted in place... was OEM). Your issue is a lack of antiseize when you reinstall.
If you're not coating the shaft of the bolt with antiseize or at the least, high pressure grease, you WILL have this problem again.
Currently trying to replace my leaf springs. The front bolt is coming out but it's seized to the sleeve and pushing the bracket open. Got a friend running over a propane torch soon, what else can I do?
I had the exact issue, I used a hole saw without a pilot that had an I.D. that was the dia. of the flange head on the bolt.
Cut through the outer bracket, removed the bolt with sleeve (and bracket material), welded a large O.D. washer onto the outer bracket to get the bolt hole back, installed new bolt and went on with life.
