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HP Dana 30 Pattern Check.

CherokeePride99

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New York
This is my first r&p install. After installing the pinion i noticed it had to be moved back but all there was behind the pinion race was an oil baffle. it was .020 so i put in .015 worth of shims.after that it was still too deep. so i removed some more and it still was too deep.so now i have no shims. is this pattern runnable or do i need to find a thinner oil slinger? i dont think i should remove the slinger all together. any thoughts fellas?

Drive

338241d1327947492-gear-contact-pattern-img_20120130_115109.jpg



Coast

338242d1327947492-gear-contact-pattern-img_20120130_115139.jpg
 
Pics no workie for me?
 
cant see the pics, but make sure that your bearing races are fully seated, along with your pinion bearings being fully seated. You shouldnt have to find a thinner slinger if everything is in properly
 
pics are working for me, but considering i was asking for help a few days ago my opinion isnt worth much. id say your hair deep on your pinion, take out .001-.002 and try again, but my pattern was a little deeper on the pinion but is running quiet. how think is the oil slinger between the big pinion bearing and the pinion, also you need to run the baffle between the large pinion race and housing as its required in a HP to keep the front bearing well lubed. the original slinger i got was .060 but my overhaul kit came with a .030" thick slinger. the pattern is very usable, but you need the baffle and the 2 slingers.
 
Oh and my oil slinger is ..060. I was gonna keep the oil baffle out but if you think it gotta be in there then im gonna have to get a thinner oil slinger. where would i find one about .030? the ones i see dont have any measurements.
 
.030" slinger came with my overhaul kit, check the net or maybe some local drive line shops and yes you absolutly must run the baffle, it holds oil for the small pinion bearing, if you remove it you will starve the small pinion bearing of oil and youll have to repete this process
 
Called randys there Yukon slinger is .031. Ordered that and a new baffle too cause the other one got damaged. I'll post more pics when I get the new slinger installed.
 
I think the factory set up some dana 30's with a thinker oil slinger instead of using shims behind the race. I just rebuilt mine and I had a .065 slinger in there with no shims. The rebuild kit came with a .031 so I used that and was able to stack shims behind the race to properly set the pinion depth.
 
That is about .003-,005" too deep. I have had to leave out the baffle behind the bearing cup on one before because it was too deep with no shims. If you can get a thinner baffle that would be good.
 
have you measured the thickness of the larger slinger, if its the factory one im inclined to say its around .060". i think the baffle is as thin as it gets at .020". i wrecked mine when i punched the old race out too, but i sanded down the old pinion race with a roll-lock disc on a air grinder to make a set up race so i wouldnt trash the pinion baffle. measure your old slinger and subtract .003" and use that as your starting point for total pinion depth shim, that should pretty much put you bang on for PD, shim your backlash accordingly to get you .006-.010"(i kept mine tight at .007") and you preload and lay some marking compound.
 
Xj jay I think your right on. the baffle is .020 and the slinger is .060. So if I use the.030 slinger and plus the baffle I will have .010 to play with. So I'll just add round .007 to the shim pack and I should be pretty dead on right?
 
Yes, .057" would be your next step, set your backlash and lay a pattern, but be prepared to have add or subtract another .001" if you want that perfect pattern you've hurd so much about.
 
I agree that your pattern looks .003-.005 deep.

Double check that everything is seated correctly...you need the slinger under the bearing on the pinion, and the baffle/dam behind the race in the housing for proper oiling/oil retention.
 
5 years later I found this thread very helpful, bought the thinner slinger and made up the difference with shins behind the bearing race. In shopping around for those shims, though, I found myself at the jeep dealership. They have a cd case full of slingers in different thicknesses in 0.001 increments. If you had a pinion depth measurement tool or trusted your math on the marked dimensions this would be the way to go. Doing this in my garage over multiple iterations I found it easier it pop the bearing race out of the housing than to pull the bearing off the pinion. Just thought someone might find it helpful to know dealerships stock different thickness slingers.
 
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