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Right hand drive death wobble!

Control arm length charts are "not" for alignment purposes! They were developed to establish wheelbase and keep the axle centered within the wheel well.
Show us the print-out from your alignment!
 
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There shouldn't be need for a drop pitman arm but pics are needed for that!

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Control_Arm_Chart.htm


I have seen this chart before but it do not work for me.

At 4.5" of lift, the required LCA to get the axle center is somewhere around 16.38" which is the ones on my XJ. The upper control arms are adjustable units from JCR and are adjusted to some in the neighborhood of 15.5" +/-. I usually fine tune by adding or removing shims at the LCA's.

http://jksmfg.com/i-9056842-j-axis-adjustable-front-upper-control-arms-cherokee-xj-comanche-mj-1984-2001.html?ref=category:381151

I think some adjustable CA's or custom length arms would help you to reduce the caster. 8 degrees which is the maximum allowed for non-modified XJ's may be too much. You have to test, adjust and test again until you are comfortable/happy with it.
 
I have adjustable upper and lower control arms. I just wasn't sure if I should be making adjustments threw the upper arms after you guys kept saying to set the uppers to 15 inches.. I would only need to extend my uppers by a bit to get me to the 5.5 caster range...Or should I machine my lower arms a bit so I can collapse them a bit more to get 5.5 out of em? I didn't use the length chart to set my alignment. People suggested I set my upper control arms at 15 inches and make all my caster setting threw the lower control arms AND as I stated my lower control arms are collapsed to there shortest setting and my caster is still not in range.
 
How could anybody suggest CA lengths when we know nothing about your Jeep(like lift height). You were so ambiguous in your first post about everything! When trying to figure out DW, hard numbers are critical and you have yet to provide any useful data!
 
Im just asking is it okay for me to set my caster threw the upper arms. Alignment specs are 8.2 caster. .25 toe out. Camber is -.1. Front diff is centered and wheel base is 102 even measeured with a new John beam alignment rack. Lift is the ome ultimate making it 4.5 inches of lift. Aint tryn to piss anyone off or stirr shit up with anyone just asking for some help here. I spoke with kevin from ironman4x4 n he said i should be fine with adjusting upper but am just checking with you guys on that. Thanks again
 
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Your alignment is all FUBAR. You should have 1/8-1/16 of toe-IN, about 6 degrees of positive caster (top of knuckle toward rear of truck, use the flat at bottom of the knuckle to measure. Camber is not adjustable without specialty ball joints, and should be 0 degrees. The bottom arms set wheelbase and center the wheel in the wells. Uppers are used to make caster adjustments.
 
I have had toe in. and as per someones suggestion I tried going toe out to see if it helped the situation. If you look at the beginning of this thread everyone suggested it had to do with the way it was setup and to to set my upper arms to stock length and make all adjustments threw the lowers.
 
Your alignment is all FUBAR. You should have 1/8-1/16 of toe-IN, about 6 degrees of positive caster (top of knuckle toward rear of truck, use the flat at bottom of the knuckle to measure. Camber is not adjustable without specialty ball joints, and should be 0 degrees. The bottom arms set wheelbase and center the wheel in the wells. Uppers are used to make caster adjustments.

I have had toe in. and as per someones suggestion I tried going toe out to see if it helped the situation. If you look at the beginning of this thread everyone suggested it had to do with the way it was setup and to to set my upper arms to stock length and make all adjustments threw the lowers.

The way the XJ came from Jeep, the Upper Control arms are of fixed length with no way of adjusting them. The Lower Control arms are also fixed length. However, a bit of caster adjustment is provided on the early XJ's by the use of metal shims placed behind the control arms at the body mount. On a non modified XJ this would be sufficient to get the caster in specs.

On a modified XJ, all this OEM stuff goes out the door. However, most of us use it as a base or starting point and fine tune from there. Here is where adjustable upper and or lower control arms come into play. Most of us with 4"+ lift uses after market control arms to get the XJ to the point where it is pleasurable to drive at highway speeds. Everyone I know have installed after market control arms including myself.

Just an FYI: the lower arms on my are 16 3/8" or 16.375 fixed length purchased from Rusty'. The uppers are the JKS adjustable lengths and at the moment measures 15 7/8" or 15.875" That get the caster to a usable setting and I could make minor adjustment using the shims behind the lower control arms.

Righthanddrivexj, bring the caster to about 5 degrees and the toe to 0 then fine tune from there. I have heard that higher lift and larger tires on an XJ require less caster. My XJ is sitting at 4.5" lift with JK take off wheels and tires which are approximately 33" diameter verses the 27 or 28" tires that came standard on the XJ.
 
Your still missing a lot of of critical info, specially when trying to diagnose DW! Here is my print out on my 2K, it had only been "home" aligned for the last 17yrs. When I installed a Currie Correctlink I decided to check my work. I'm at 5.5" with radius arms and it's driving better than new right now!
Btw: I still need to take some toe back out, I screwed up when I did my calculation from inches to degrees!
jeep%20align_zpsyvtrqk8t.jpg
 
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What's the update on this ???
 
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