Dual 12" puller and single 10" pusher fan install. (pics)

Yesterday afternoon I had $30 burning a hole in my pocket so I did what any jeeper would do.... go to my local pic and pull to search for goodies!

The search today was for some sort of fan to replace my stock mechanical fan. As many of you know the stock fan is run by the belt through a viscous clutch. As this clutch wears out the fan will not give adequate flow to cool the engine... and even if it is working it barely cools the hot 4.0L. Jeep acknolwedged this and added an aux fan to models equipped with A/C. Luckily I had put on of these aux fans in but it would cycle on and off when the jeep was parked indicating to me the stock mech fan was not up to the task. Also, whenever I did a water crossing the stock mech fan would spray muddy water all over the engine bay while trying to pull the engine into the rad... not very nice. Water would also kill the viscous clutch and those things become expensive if you have to keep replacing them.

So... I had to find some sort of fan in the 10" to 12" size that is less than 3" thick so it would fit in the engine bay betwen the rad and the engine.

Here's what I found.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/86564946/86565946iEwkVy

On the left is a dual 12" puller fan and both have TWO speeds!! I found this in a Nissan. On the right is a very compact 10" pusher fan that came from a Mazda. Each were $15.

Take a look through the pics for the install.

http://community.webshots.com/album/86564946DsertP

I managed to fit the dual 12" fans in the stock fan location and I also somehow squeezed the 10" pusher fan between the rad and front grill. All the clearances look good.

Testing.... since I just did this yesterday the testing is somewhat inconclusive as of right now. The little I have done looks promising. With my truck parked I let it idle and warm up... I then put the dual fans on their "low" setting and tried to make the engine overheat by revving it up to 2000 rpm for a while. As soon as I turned the fans on the temp went right down to 185 degrees and sat there. So, as of right now it would appear that the low setting is sufficient to cool the engine... that gives me the high setting AND the 10" pusher fan for backup cooling for those really hot and humid days.

The best part is.... I can now turn them off going through water so I don't have to worry about splashing all over my engine electronics!!

Cheers!

NICE MAN!!!

First link is dead tho

So let me get this right, you got RID of the stock metal fan that is hooked to the engine?

more details plz, Ive lost my fan shroud, and it splashes EVERYWHERE when i go thru water, NOT GOOD for fingers either

I fixed that first link I think.

Yeah, I got rid of the stock metal belt driven fan AND the the factory issue auxilary fan.

I put the dual 12" two speed fans in the stock location and installed the smaller 10" pusher fan in front of the rad between the rad and plastic grill.

So, the studs that stuck out of the engine to hook up the stock fan, did you just cut them off, also, did you leave the belt ran thru there, or did you get a diff size belt, if so, what size?

What nissan did the dual fan come out of?

Also, the 10" pusher fan, how necessary is that?

First the studs... I removed the mech fan and put the nuts back on the studs. I then cut the protruding portion of the studs off leaving about 1/16" sticking out past their nuts.

As for the Nissan, I'm not totally sure. It was laying in the back of a Nissan van at the wrecking yard. There were a couple others there as well so it might be a regular nissan item. Due to it's size I'd say a pathfinder or van.

As for the pusher fan... most people avoid the electric cooling fan swap as they find electric fans don't give enought air flow. I wanted to me completely sure this would work and since I was already out at the wreckers I decided to pick it up. I'm not sure if it will be necessary or not but having a little extra cooling capacity just in case one of the main fans dies isn't a bad thing in my opinion.

O, ok, cool!!

So, is there any way you can run your rig for a while without running the "pusher fan" and let me know how she runs?

I have an upgraded cooling system, including:
3 core gdi rad.
high flow thermo housing
low temp thermo

So Im just wondering if that dual fan setup would be sufficiuent, and if I can just bypass doing the 10" pusher fan...

I have already converted over to the open system from my stock closed cooling system.

I'm also running a 3-core rad.

So far I haven't done any testing with the pusher fan on. Last night with the engine at 2000 rpm and the jeep parked the "low" setting of the dual 12" fans was more than enough cooling to keep the temp right down.

It's supposed to be 33 degrees here today so I'll test it some more in the mid afternoon and post the results.

Cool, I just might have to do this, that stock fan is just TOO much!!

I think Ill end up at the local yard and try to round up some myself, how did you run the switch to run 2 speeds?

I currently have it wired up so a toggle at the dash turns the fans on to their "low" setting and the signal wire that used to power the stock aux fan kicks the fans to their "hi" setting.

So, if the engine gets too hot the fans automatically get turned on to their "hi" setting.

This isn't my final setup as it was late when I finished installing the fans and this was setup as a temporary thing.

As for a final setup my idea is to find a t-stat housing with the screw in temp sensor. My truck is an 88 so the temp sensor is in the rad and not in the t-stat housing like the newer trucks. If I get that housing I'll have two temp sensors and I can add the proper resistors to each sensor to the fans will automatically turn on at 190 degrees and then kick on to "hi" at about 210 degrees or so.
I'll probaly leave the pusher wired directly to a switch so it is strictly manually operated.

By the way... these fans take quite a few amps so be sure to run everything through a relay.

http://www.tellico4x4.com/ , thats where I got my thermo housing with temp sensor on the side, its the same for the 2.5 l and the 4 liter, and my year is 93. (just to help you out, i searched and searched and couldnt find a better price anywhere)

But on that note, im soooo stupid when i comes to wiring and such, I can run a switch, thats about it

What exactly is / how do you wire a relay?

I removed my clutch fan and the pulley. I then used plier or vise-grips to remove the studs. To put the pulley back on, I got some 5/16", grade 8, 3/4" bolts and bolted the pulley back onto the idler spindle. I spindle is threaded and I think the thread is a 24. Now, there are no protruding bolts and the bolt heads fit nice and flush against the pulley.