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Steering Confusion!

Went to Pepboys, purchased a lifetime alignment for 150 (with coupon). Turns out they couldn't adjust my tierod with it being rusted. Said they tried a torch to no avail. Lookslike I'm replacing the tierod system like it or not. Now trying to decide which tierod to use. Probably ZJ v8 or rough stuff.
Not familiar with that tierod, but if it is hollow, drill a small hole in the top somewhere in the rod and put a couple of ounces of acetone AFT mix in it and run it a few days. It will loosen it up. when you get done, you can spot weld the hole shut or just put a some RTV over it.

As a note for others, always put an ounce or so of ATF in your tie rods before assembly and that way they won't rust solid.
 
Not familiar with that tierod, but if it is hollow, drill a small hole in the top somewhere in the rod and put a couple of ounces of acetone AFT mix in it and run it a few days. It will loosen it up. when you get done, you can spot weld the hole shut or just put a some RTV over it.

As a note for others, always put an ounce or so of ATF in your tie rods before assembly and that way they won't rust solid.

i always just antisieze the piss out of the threads.
 
Plan on using Antisieze as its more tacky, and I have had good luck with it. Anyhow I receiced me rock auto order and just primed everything for paint for rust prevention. I have a can of Magic Acrylic Enamel gloss I'll brush on everything. I just bought it to spruce up a rusty old Craigslist hitch I got for $20
 
Plan on using Antisieze as its more tacky, and I have had good luck with it. Anyhow I receiced me rock auto order and just primed everything for paint for rust prevention. I have a can of Magic Acrylic Enamel gloss I'll brush on everything. I just bought it to spruce up a rusty old Craigslist hitch I got for $20

I'm not familiar with that paint. I usually use farm implement paint or Rustoleum hammered finish, depending on what's handy. Both work really well for me.
 
PB blaster didn't help get my tierod ends off the knuckles. Mixed up a batch of Acetone/ATF and they came off in minutes. Anyways I originally ordered a factory replacement stabilizer (moog ssd56) but decided I would upgrade to the ssd107 after reading some reviews. So waiting on another rock auto shipment. Rockauto has gotten my order here in two days the last two times I've ordered from them. They have a warehouse in Cleveland and I live in Youngstown. Wish I could just pickup my own orders.
 
RuffStuff is doing 20% off for Dan's Birthday. I was going to run the ZJ setup but then I started looking at where my TRE's connect to the knuckle and my passenger side if loose lately (side to side), not up and down, so either the knuckle hole is wallowed out or the TRE is wore causing it to be loose like that. Seems like my only option is to ream them out for bigger TRE's at this point???
 
RuffStuff is doing 20% off for Dan's Birthday. I was going to run the ZJ setup but then I started looking at where my TRE's connect to the knuckle and my passenger side if loose lately (side to side), not up and down, so either the knuckle hole is wallowed out or the TRE is wore causing it to be loose like that. Seems like my only option is to ream them out for bigger TRE's at this point???

No.

the only option is to pull the part off and find out what the issue is.

Most likely, the TRE is worn, not the knuckle. But you won't know till you get in there and see.

If the nut holding the TRE in place on the knuckle is tight, and doesn't move, I would say with 98% certainty the TRE bore in the knuckle is just fine.
 
No.

the only option is to pull the part off and find out what the issue is.

Most likely, the TRE is worn, not the knuckle. But you won't know till you get in there and see.

If the nut holding the TRE in place on the knuckle is tight, and doesn't move, I would say with 98% certainty the TRE bore in the knuckle is just fine.

Right, I'll get it torn apart this weekend and see what the story is. Hoping the knuckle is still in good shape.
 
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