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Broken bolts

TerryDean

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pittsburg, TX
I'm installing new shocks and a 2" budget lift. The rear end is hanging in my garage right now. The project was going well until I took out the bolts that hold in the bar pin at the top of the rear shocks. ALL FOUR heads broke off with little torque applied, comparatively.

Here's what I've tried - A backout bit. That broke off in the bolt. I then bought a square backout - it's starting to twist and not really move the bolt. I've tried tapping but I can't get the hole drilled with a brand new bit.

The only thing left to try is to torch it before trying the square backout again, but that will take a few days probably at the rate things are going so far.

Does anybody have any further suggestions?
 
I see that you've got a relatively low number of posts, so I'll be nice before the search nazi's show up.

For future reference:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php
that link will answer 95% of your questions in short order.

A quick search for broken shock bolt returned a few pages, here's the notables from page one:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=911759&highlight=broken+shock+bolt

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=907901&highlight=broken+shock+bolt

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=901511&highlight=broken+shock+bolt
 
TerryDean said:
Thanks for the quick reply, and for not blasting me. Not searching is a hard habit to break.

it's a kindler gentler NAXJA, at least today it is.
normally, I'd have given you hell.
 
I did the same thing when i went to replace my rear shocks. You can get an easyout from Sears and that should fix it but i did not learn about that until i paid some place to fix it. I got screwed, they charged me more to get the bolts out then it cost to buy the 2" lift.
 
I would not recommend an easy out. If you're going that route just drill it out.

When an easy out breaks you're hosed, they're made of hardened steel.
 
Here's an update.
2 nuts broke their weld via my crappy little impact hammer.
1 broke out via big hammer and pry bar
1 was hammered, pryed, impacted and finally was drilled larger and larger until the remnants of the last bolt were gone enough that I *should* be able to get a nut on there evenly once I pick up the nuts/bolts. This last one was a m-f'n b'ch to get finished.

Now - I'm on to my shocks. This is a learn-as-I-go-hope-that-the-truck-doesn't-fall-on-me experience. I'm about to search now for previous threads, but does somebody have any suggestions on getting the dog bone and bushing assembly through the eye of the shock?
 
lots of lube and some cursing, a Large c-clamp might be helpful.
Place c clamp over the end of the eye, use a socket that's the same size as the rubber bushing, but larger than the bar pin.
Use the clamp to push it through, like a makeshift ball joint press.

It's not the safest method, somethimes things fly out.
 
That's pretty much what I've been doing with the vice but was finding it difficult. I guess that this, like many things in life, can not be done without a lot of lubrication and cursing.

Wish me luck.
 
if you are removing your rear swaybar while doing the BB, you can use the swaybar mount thats on the ubolt plate as a bar pin eliminator and just use a bolt through the shock instead of messing with the bar pins , they will probably break down the road anywho ... just an option ,for what its worth
 
are you pulling the leaf out completely or just leaving the main leaf attached?

The front leaf hanger bolt likes to be a PITA, there's a bunch of threads on that one, with pictures of how to cut the frame to get a wrench on it.

Might want to find some new centering bolts if you didn't get them with the AAL.
Socket head screws work well, I'm not sure what size XJ's use, I know the MJ is a larger centering bolt.
 
The AALs did come with new centering bolts.

I am leaving the main leaf in place.

I considered griniding the current center bolt heads off, but I know that you're not supposed to scar your main leaf in any way so I'm aprehensive about that.

Any experience with removing the leaf pack and taking it to a shop? How much would they usually charge?
 
You don't need to take the leaf off the vehicle! Those bolts are a bitch too!
Leave the main leaf attached. Just remove the axle, and the center pin. Remove the other leafs, put the AAL in place, use a C Clamp to hold the leaf pack together and get everything lined up. Put the new center pin in, and put the axle back in place. Done.
 
not gonna lie, when the AAL went in mine, the bolt got cut. Just make sure you've already put a clamp on eash side.

With care, you can cut the blot without messing up the leaf.
That's your call though, mine was out of the truck, so it was easy to get at with a grinder.
 
What about the clips? Should my factory ones go back on or will I need new ones? I am going to remove the bottom leaf from my factory pack in order to add my AAL.
 
I went and got new ones at the parts store, mine were terribly rusted and not salvageable.
 
87manche said:
I would not recommend an easy out. If you're going that route just drill it out.

When an easy out breaks you're hosed, they're made of hardened steel.

An easy out will not break if you dont force, you just got to take your time and use some wd40 to keep the bit cool.
 
Lukipela said:
An easy out will not break if you dont force, you just got to take your time and use some wd40 to keep the bit cool.

I don't believe anything short of God's hand itself would have budged those bolts. I have regretably went mudding in iron ore a couple of times. That stuff is harsh to the underbody. Gives everything a nice gritty layer of rust.
 
Lukipela said:
An easy out will not break if you dont force, you just got to take your time and use some wd40 to keep the bit cool.

and make sure you're drilling straight and true, that's something difficult to do when you're inside the fender of a jeep.

i've just resorted to drilling out all the bolts that get in my way.
I drilled out the shank of a tie rod end the other day. Fun stuff there.
 
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