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rear stock shackles shot

4x4JeePmaNthINg

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
guys gotta fix the suspension,

99 xj np 242 hp30, c8.25 RE 3.5SF

my issue is how much lift can be given to the stock np242 and rear drive shaft?
i have a 1 inch TC drop that i want to get rid of ,( the brown dog motor mounts are extremely pissed) the trans cross-member is partially welded driver side because studs are broken. The stock shackles with the lift are 90 degrees . i dont have a welder and im in an apartment garage trying to solve this crap lol. :roll:

for the TC im considering a hack/tap, or advanced adapters output shaft. Claytons cross-member is removable and a long arm upgrade is possible plus the outter sides of the crossmember should be welded (so wouldnt need to drill or tap the stock crap stud holes) or cavfab if the cross-member is easily removable.

i have gears in the mail and the goal is to get her 1" higher, PROPERLY, and some bigger shoes. gotta get the basics fixed first though.

also I really enjoy the np 242 full time (colorado winter), so a 231 is not something i want to swap in. it is The, and my only DD

thank you very much for your help,
matt
 
I'm a little confused on what you're asking. If you put a SYE or hac-n-tap you should be able to adjust your driveline properly and get rid of the tcase drop. You will still have to get your driveshaft lengthened for the lift. It wouldn't be a good idea to run a stock length shaft on a lifted rig. For the rear shackles look at getting a shackle relocation bracket. Ironman has some good stuff.

http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html
 
I had a stock shaft with a 231 and 3.5 inches of lift for a few years. I just shimmed the axle to have correct pinion angle.

Never caused any problems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ok my first post reads like crap::twak:

i have a 1 in TC drop with a 3.5" lift,np242, and ALL the studs for the crossmember are fudged.

I want to remove the tc drop and am wondering if i can get away with using the stock shaft until i get the relocation brackets and hackntap+ new shaft.

Im thinking of pulling off the crossmember and drilling access holes through the floor. then drill out the TC crossmember nuts in the frame rail and feed new hardware in through the top.
 
ok my first post reads like crap::twak:

i have a 1 in TC drop with a 3.5" lift,np242, and ALL the studs for the crossmember are fudged.

I want to remove the tc drop and am wondering if i can get away with using the stock shaft until i get the relocation brackets and hackntap+ new shaft.

Im thinking of pulling off the crossmember and drilling access holes through the floor. then drill out the TC crossmember nuts in the frame rail and feed new hardware in through the top.

Have you thought of chasing the threads in the crossmember nuts to see if they can be salvaged? If not, drilling them out and tapping one size up would be the next step.
 
Gotcha, I think you could get away with it for a bit. The possible issue I see is since you are basically extending the drive shaft from the slip yoke you are reducing the contact area on the splines and there is a possibility of stripping them because of more pressure. You may also get some drive line vibes, but should be fine for a bit.
 
Have you thought of chasing the threads in the crossmember nuts to see if they can be salvaged? If not, drilling them out and tapping one size up would be the next step.

the one i drilled through is up to 3/8s and i dont know how much is left to tap into. the driver side i should be able to drill/ tap one size up from whatever they currently are.

would a simple dewalt tap/ bit be sufficient or are those crap. i dont want to get stuck breaking this crap and digging it out.
 
I tapped all mine to 3/8's but one and it's fine. I used whatever crap I had in my toolbox with liberal amounts of lube and it was fine. Just take your time.
 
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