• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Dealing with a bit of windshield frame rust

clunk

NAXJA Forum User
Since I'm on a rust-proofing mission these days (dealing with a bit of floor rust, some body work from a cracked rear hatch and a few little spots here and there) I decided to turn my attention to a bit of very minor surface rust on my 1990's windshield area. I have tiny bit of rust just starting around the trim "clips" that hold the chrome trim around the windshield. Luckily, it doesn't go below the windshield, so I think I have caught it just in time. I havn't done any rust work in such a confined area, but I want to make sure I do it right.
My plan is to sand out the rust to good metal, apply naval jelly to kill the rust then seal it with a good primer/factory matched rattle can. Does this sound like the way to go?
I searched and found most people talking about rust getting underneath the windshield seal etc, and luckily that isn't my problem.
If anyone has any tips that would be great.
 
If you really want the best chance at a permanent fix, you will need to take a fairly aggressive approach.

As has already been mentioned, POR-15 is an excellent product which I've have used for years. Eastonwood also has a good product, which I don't have personal experience with.

I would media blast, then etch, then POR-15 (or similar product) with two coats. Then prime and/or top coat. POR-15 is UV sensitive, so it must be top coated if it will be exposed to UV.

One option I use that has worked well for me is to use POR-15 'clear'. That way if you believe rust is recurring all you need to do is sand off the top coat. You can then check the condition without going to bare metal.

www.por15.com

Hope this helps,
Kent
 
I used JB WELD on my Jeep before......sanded a little to rough it up, put the JB on it as smooth as i could, and hit it with a rattle can.......this was a beater Heep tho, i wasnt concerned about looks too much, but the windshield still doesnt leak to this day, and that was 4 years ago.......maybe its a lazy mans fix, or just a plain bad idea, but it worked for me....:thumbup:
 
I would also media blast, no need to etch, the blasting will take care of that, in fact you may want to "sand" the blasted metal to smooth out the surface a bit. I have used POR15, good product but I like Zero Rust better, a little cheaper and less toxic. ZR does not have to be top coated, you can leave it like it is, prime and top coat, or just "clear it, it also comes in colors.
Whatever you do, DO NOT FIX THE RUSTED AREA AND JUST PRIME IT( with ZR this OK but not with anything else,especially rattle cans) If you do you will be doing this job over again ...soon. Primer draws in moisture, whether it be paint or water.
 
Back
Top