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4.7's and a AW4

It's not that easy! When I'm towing on a steep downhill grade, I will shift into 1-2 for a hold in second, I would lose that!

That's a good point. :thumbup: I would advise against it in that case if you tend to do that a lot.

BTW, how much weight are you towing? Do you feel the power of your stroker is enough/more than enough for what you do? Just curious. :guitar:
 
That's a good point. :thumbup: I would advise against it in that case if you tend to do that a lot.

BTW, how much weight are you towing? Do you feel the power of your stroker is enough/more than enough for what you do? Just curious. :guitar:

I just got back from my week at Nascar. It's the first time out with the trailer and my new '17 stroker. What a dis-apointment, it's faster than cr** by itself, but with the heavy load the AW4 shows it's late/soft shifts. I have seen only one company that list performance transmissions (2500$) and I was thinking of a "shift kit" as they are much more common and I would be interested in what gains I would receive. It's a 2k, btw!

My trailer weighs about 3500# and has elec brakes. I haven't had the new motor on any major trips yet, but the with AW4 in the past it will just gain speed in anything but 2nd. Engine braking just doesn't exist, I wonder about a "lock-up" tc switch?
 
I installed the trans go kit in my AW4. Went with 1st gear hold and all "hot rod" shifts. Engine/tranny are not in yet

This was a tranny I bought used off Craigslist for my 4wd swap. XJ was 2wd originally.

This may be a stupid questions but what DOES control shift points. I thought in an auto, when the tranny sees less power input it shifts. Which is why if you ease off the gas as you accelerate it will upshift, but if you stay in it all the way it will shift at redline or peak power.

I'm hoping to make power to or north of 6K rpm with my 4.7 stroker. Flyin' Ryan is doing my tuning. I wonder if he can adjust shift points or if it's not a concern, OR maybe I need to just run the RAD-designs baja shifter.

As long as your engine is "pulling" hard enough it should shift at peak power right? Or is that all in the TCM?

These guys are modifying my TQ converter to a 2800 stall http://www.importperformancetrans.c.../aw4-high-stall-converter-rwd4x4-od-5432.html

Also does anyone know if the stock Tach needle will just pass 6K rpm? I know the speedo just keeps going past 100, will the tach do the same thing?
 
AW4 is controlled entirely by the TCU activating solenoids based on sensor input--there's no hydraulic logic at all (other than firmness, controlled by the throttle valve cable). Disconnect the TCU and the transmission will not shift.
 
I received my VB gaskets today(hope they're the right one's). I think I will go ahead with the 1st gear hold. The whip lash in 4low with a 4:1 transfer case is not tolerable either! Just before my stroker build I upgraded to WJ/KJ brakes, I'm pretty confident they will hold up(I got by the last time). I don't think I'll get to it this weekend, but we'll see!
 
I'm curious why you want such a high stall speed? With the 4.0's low end power/torque curve you would lose a 1/4 of your performance!

It's a 4.7 stroker with a custom Lunati cam
Dur @ .050 233 intake and 241 exhaust (262/270 advertised)
.546 lift intake / .571 lift exhaust

Running 33's and 5.13 gears

Lunati suggested a 2800 stall, stock is actually around a 2200 stall
 
-4.7L
-11:1 static CR
-Harland sharp roller rockers
-The ported head in this thread + matched intake
-70MM throttle body
-Doug thorley header, ported a bit by me to help the exhaust ports match up a bit better. 3" outlet/open no muffler or cats
-Custom cam from comp cams. Something in the neighborhood of .590 intake, .600 exhaust, duration @ .050 of 224 int/230 exh on a 113 LSA. This is a rough estimate after talking with them. Not sure on final numbers, might be a little less duration.I'm honestly striving for 350 HP on 93 octane.

Your build sounds interesting! What crank, rods, and pistons did you use?
 
Your build sounds interesting! What crank, rods, and pistons did you use?

So since that quote there have been a few changes.

It will actually be 11.3:1 now. And it's a custom Lunati Solid cam, not a comp cam hydraulic.

Scat Crank, bushed scat rods from Russ with no balance pad, really helps with main girdle clearance.

Racetec forged pistons with a 17cc dish.
 
I just went through the aw4 and installed a TransGo shift kit and drilled out the separator plate for hot rod shifts. I did not install the 1st hold feature because I have a RadDesigns rail shifter which does this electronically. It sounds like you want more control of when your trans shifts, the rail shifter might be something to look into. I have a DPDT switch wired in that switches between auto and manual shifting, and a SPDT switch wired to the TCC to select between TCC on, off, or auto
 
I just went through the aw4 and installed a TransGo shift kit and drilled out the separator plate for hot rod shifts. I did not install the 1st hold feature because I have a RadDesigns rail shifter which does this electronically. It sounds like you want more control of when your trans shifts, the rail shifter might be something to look into. I have a DPDT switch wired in that switches between auto and manual shifting, and a SPDT switch wired to the TCC to select between TCC on, off, or auto

I should have just gone with a manual like I really wanted. Just a few times offroad I wish I had an auto anyway.
 
I just went through the aw4 and installed a TransGo shift kit and drilled out the separator plate for hot rod shifts. I did not install the 1st hold feature because I have a RadDesigns rail shifter which does this electronically. It sounds like you want more control of when your trans shifts, the rail shifter might be something to look into. I have a DPDT switch wired in that switches between auto and manual shifting, and a SPDT switch wired to the TCC to select between TCC on, off, or auto

What does it shift like? What motor do you have? Do you tow anything?
 
What does it shift like? What motor do you have? Do you tow anything?



Rebuilt 4.0, about 30k miles. Completely rebuilt the aw4 (including valve body and HD2 shift kit) about 1,000 miles ago. New clutches, steels, sprags, o-rings, reman pump and torque converter (stock stall) etc. occasionally tow a 5x8 trailer, I probably haven’t towed more than 1500 pounds at one time

1-2 shift is VERY crisp, it will chirp the tires occasionally. The shift is practically immediate. 2-3 and 3-4 are both firm; but not as much as 1-2

If you’re asking about the Rail Shifter, you can shift at whatever rpm you like. You control the shifting, picture it as a manual without a clutch. The rail shifter bypasses the transmission control module... depending on how it’s wired in, either permanently or by a switch


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I find it almost unbelievable that there is no support for the AW4. At best is the connection to the A340. I tried to find a good torque converter, I called Hughes today since their local and I've used them many times before, Nothing



Very little support, surprisingly. I looked EVERYWHERE for a tc during my rebuild. Finally found Cobra Transmissions, look them up online. Site can be a little confusing, make sure the tc you order says it’s for a Jeep cherokee aw4. I think they may have had one with a higher stall speed but it’s been about a month since I’ve been on it.

Upgrades are available, pretty much just an extra clutch in the forward direct clutch pack I believe, and one of the sprags is upgradeable. Look up IPT performance transmissions. They may also have TCs but I’m not sure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Very little support, surprisingly. I looked EVERYWHERE for a tc during my rebuild. Finally found Cobra Transmissions, look them up online. Site can be a little confusing, make sure the tc you order says it’s for a Jeep cherokee aw4. I think they may have had one with a higher stall speed but it’s been about a month since I’ve been on it.

Upgrades are available, pretty much just an extra clutch in the forward direct clutch pack I believe, and one of the sprags is upgradeable. Look up IPT performance transmissions. They may also have TCs but I’m not sure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're right about IPT. I'm sending them my stock TQ Converter and they can modify it. I talked with them on the phone. Internet searches tell me stock stall is around 2200. IPT confirmed they can make it a 2800 for my setup and it's all boxed up ready to be sent out to them.

From their site:

"IPT is able to custom modify your converter to suit the characteristics of your vehicle. Improved bearings, lock up clutch material and furnace braised fins yield a tremendous increase in strength and durability.

*Please note that this is a modification service- you must ship your existing converter."
 
Hey guys, on the subject of 4.7's and the AW4 I have a question:

Do I really need an external cooler? What generates heat? Generally, it's my understanding the slipping of the clutches create heat. I'll likely have full control with a RAD shifter, and I have the transgo kit in with full hotrod shifts.

In theory my AW4 should run cooler right? The gears will shift quickly rather than that nice smooth "heat-causing" granny shifts. If I'm manually shifting the thing while wheeling, do I need to run an external cooler?
 
You are correct about the shift kits claiming lower trans temps, but I would still recommend a good cooler to further lower trans temps and reduce the load on the radiator! The AW4 is noted for running excessively high temps to begin with. I've run a additional cooler and synthetic fluid since mile 0 !
 
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