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  #196  
Old April 18th, 2016, 06:18
jnewell jnewell is offline
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Re: Soft brake peddle cause

Thanks, Arnie. I just popped off the switch. Question for you: I also opened the front of the valve body (which didn't tell me much). I assume there's nothing sacred about opening up the front of the valve body and then reassembling it? It's not like this is a factory-sealed assembly...?
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  #197  
Old April 18th, 2016, 06:56
XJ-ARNIE XJ-ARNIE is offline
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Re: Soft brake peddle cause

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Originally Posted by jnewell View Post
Thanks, Arnie. I just popped off the switch. Question for you: I also opened the front of the valve body (which didn't tell me much). I assume there's nothing sacred about opening up the front of the valve body and then reassembling it? It's not like this is a factory-sealed assembly...?
no your good. its just how it all goes together, and that is where the spring is located to change the brake bias front to rear.
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  #198  
Old April 18th, 2016, 07:48
jnewell jnewell is offline
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Re: Soft brake peddle cause

Yet another stupid question. I'm pretty sure that the combo switch thinks I had a rear brake circuit failure (because of how I did the first bleed). I assume that I need to wriggle the valve toward the front of the vehicle? I'm having trouble getting it to move with the paper clip (in either direction).
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  #199  
Old April 19th, 2016, 05:59
XJ-ARNIE XJ-ARNIE is offline
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Re: Soft brake peddle cause

Another guy on here did it with a small nail, even held it in place while he bled with the nail If you read back a few pages in this tgread, everything you need to know should be in here.
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  #200  
Old June 13th, 2016, 18:10
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Ecomike Ecomike is offline
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Re: Soft brake peddle cause

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Originally Posted by davesdetail View Post
I like Your idea too! The way I did it may or may not work for everyone.
If you want to make a brass tool, the thread is a M10x1.0
I want that T-shirt! Lol
I just checked the thread on mine, the spare one have pulled out of JY, and the thread is 3/8 x 24tpi, US not Metric. Iwas shoping for a brass bolt...and checked the thread
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Quote=8Mud: "Go ahead and put up the best fence you can build, I'll bet on some Mexican with a few dollars of nails and a pile of scrap lumber."
34 MPG , '85 2WD Cherokee Pioneer with custom installed, 64 hp, 2.2 L Nissan SD22 Diesel 5 spd Manual; & 4 Renix XJs, '87 Wagoneer 4.0, 4WD, 89-Cherokee, 4WD, '87 Cherokee 2WD, & '89 Cherokee Pioneer 2WD, all 4dr. #2091
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  #201  
Old August 17th, 2017, 11:13
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Ecomike Ecomike is offline
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Re: Soft brake peddle cause

Still fighting this issue. Have found two bad rear brake parts, the main one being the wire cable that pulls on the part that the brake adjust clicks against that was no longer keeping things tight (worn and stretched), and thus the keeper's were not clicking and keeping tension on bottom of the pads. That was identified when a keeper fell out out and was rattle inside the drum after a panic stop at 60 mph on the freeway to avoid IDIOTS.

Also finally welded the gauges in the upper pad rail of the front drivers side rail. Those substantially improved the braking, in fact I did 3-4 panic stops from about 50 mph and got the front two rotors up to 370 *F and the rear drums up to 170 F very quickly for the first time ever. Usually only one of four wheels was hot.

The pulsing of the brake pedal is about 70% reduced, but is still there at 20 mph with very mild application of the brakes. If I was not looking, I might not notice it.

The brakes work great at about 1.5" of pedal travel, but if I Press hard enough the pedal still travels to 1" (or less) from the floor with no extra brake action the last 1.5" of pedal travel. After the first 1" of travel, the next 2" I can toss folks out the windshield now , but the last 1.5" before the pedal gets 100% solid, does nothing more for the braking.

I am going try one last 4 wheel bleed again in case the knuckle gauge or mall adjusted keepers were limiting the ability to get air out of the lines. But I have little hope that will do it.

I may buy a complete MC/VB from say rock auto and try the complete swap since the VB is the only thing I have not replaced.

I still have not tried replacing the Combo valve, But I seriously doubt it is the issue. I have bled it many times. And I have not lost any brake fluid all year from the MC.

If I find air in either rear wheel cyl again, I may go buy dealer ones...
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Quote=8Mud: "Go ahead and put up the best fence you can build, I'll bet on some Mexican with a few dollars of nails and a pile of scrap lumber."
34 MPG , '85 2WD Cherokee Pioneer with custom installed, 64 hp, 2.2 L Nissan SD22 Diesel 5 spd Manual; & 4 Renix XJs, '87 Wagoneer 4.0, 4WD, 89-Cherokee, 4WD, '87 Cherokee 2WD, & '89 Cherokee Pioneer 2WD, all 4dr. #2091
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