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Long Arm Upgrade - Opinions?

Check out the B Lee's kit. several friends of mine run it with zero issues, its some what similar to the Cav-fab kits. it uses 3 bolts per side to connect to the frame. apparently there is a nutsert in the frame that needs to be drilled out and tapped and its ready to rock and roll. I have my kit setting in my basement, and its heavy as all get out!

https://bleesoffroad.com/collections/suspension/products/3-link-system

yeah.um..no
every other long arm kit on the market uses more than just 3 bolts for a reason
 
it uses 6 bolts total, 3 per side. I would have thought there would be issues with it my self. But everyone I know that has this kit has abused them way more than I ever will. One guy borderline uses his like a rock bouncer, ive never seen a front end come off the ground more than this guy.. I honestly don't know how he hasn't bent his front end yet to be honest.
 
Check out the B Lee's kit. several friends of mine run it with zero issues, its some what similar to the Cav-fab kits. it uses 3 bolts per side to connect to the frame. apparently there is a nutsert in the frame that needs to be drilled out and tapped and its ready to rock and roll. I have my kit setting in my basement, and its heavy as all get out!

https://bleesoffroad.com/collections/suspension/products/3-link-system

For not much more money, there are FAR better options on the market.
 
Am running drop brackets already and hate them. They get caught on everything... but my lift has sagged somewhat as well.


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Ok, then you wheel far worse than me.....


And from what I've seen, Most long arm brackets hang down almost as much, just not so close to the tires.
 
And from what I've seen, Most long arm brackets hang down almost as much....

I am going to have to go ahead and disagree with you there. Unless by "almost as much" you meant twice as much.

xjcadropbrackets01.jpg


DSC_0627_1.jpg


TNT

IMG_0008_001_001.JPG


CavFab

i.php
 
Wheel placement issue?
 
I am going to have to go ahead and disagree with you there. Unless by "almost as much" you meant twice as much.

Go ahead an disagree...won't hurt my feelings. :laugh: That's why all of our jeeps are different...............

I said most, cuz the ones I've looked at EXCEPT for TNT still hang below the frame 3-4". Even the cav fab one you posted, and clayton as well, hang down the diameter of the joint + ~ 1"...which means 3-4".

Their saving grace is the arm itself, which lets the vehicle slide over the obstacle, whereas the drop bracket has a much better chance of catching & hanging up.

I haven't actually measured, but I'd say my cad brackets hang below the factory mount points 4-5", but are closer to the tires than the brackets you mention. Personally, I'd rather have something hang down close to the tires than mid frame as it is easier to use the tire to keep the obstacle from sticking with good tire placement. Can't always do that, but most times you can.

That's why IF I go long arms, it will most likely be TNT, along with their matching coil spring conversion for the rear, or the Synergy 4 link front and the IRO 4 link rear.


No biggie, I just mentioned it as unless you wheel in places where they hang up all the time, it's not worth the money or the quirks that can sometimes show with long arms/radius arms.

Simply suggesting a compromise to save some money and still have a nice ride.



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Check out the B Lee's kit. several friends of mine run it with zero issues, its some what similar to the Cav-fab kits. it uses 3 bolts per side to connect to the frame. apparently there is a nutsert in the frame that needs to be drilled out and tapped and its ready to rock and roll. I have my kit setting in my basement, and its heavy as all get out!

https://bleesoffroad.com/collections/suspension/products/3-link-system



I’ve heard from several people that his kits unload like crazy on hills and handle like crap. The only people I know that have ran them have swapped them out within 6mo to a year of running them.
 
I've been happy with my Clayton radius setup. Been running it for 3 years with no issues. It's easy to convert to a true 3-link in the future as well if you ever wanted to.
 
Regarding the Clayton's kit. Yes, this... but make sure your buddy is a good weldor. Certification isn't required, but more than just posession of a welder is.



Most of the people that I know only have a welder. They don't have much experience. That's why am trying to avoid welding. But I'm still a ways away from doing this, So the hunt continues for a welder and an experienced welder.


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Well lets go there. Ironman4x4fab has a 3 and 4 link system that is bolt on AND weld on. Not only bolt on. Has to be both. Anti-dive numbers adjustable from 75% to 120%.





 
Well lets go there. Ironman4x4fab has a 3 and 4 link system that is bolt on AND weld on. Not only bolt on. Has to be both. Anti-dive numbers adjustable from 75% to 120%.










Hmmmm...now that looks interesting..................not seeing it on their site tho........



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Hmmmm...now that looks interesting..................not seeing it on their site tho........



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I saw this in the vendors section a few days ago -- there's a video but not much info

Hey Kcox506 - Marketing guy for Ironman fab -- I for one would love to hear more about this -- It certainly looks like it has potential -- How about some real details?

Might not be the right place here but...
 
That's a lot of hardware hanging on just the factory nutserts.

As I had said, its weld and bolt on only. You're most certainly correct.

I saw this in the vendors section a few days ago -- there's a video but not much info

Hey Kcox506 - Marketing guy for Ironman fab -- I for one would love to hear more about this -- It certainly looks like it has potential -- How about some real details?

Might not be the right place here but...

40" lowers, 36" uppers.

All four links in place with less than 30 degrees of link intersect

Adjustable Separation and adjustable link lengths (allows you to dial in your Ant-dive)

Barnes Enduro Joints at the frame, Clevite at the axle (any joint combo possible really)

Lower links are .281 wall DOM and Upper Links are 1.25" solid 1045 CRS.

Rear 4 link already in the works that is an extension of the front. Give it a few weeks.
 
So what is the minimum amount of lift needed to run a long arm/4 link

I assume the drivers side upper axle mount is the determining factor -- the cast mount in the diff housing

Are really good bump stops a must?
 
Most of the people that I know only have a welder. They don't have much experience. That's why am trying to avoid welding. But I'm still a ways away from doing this, So the hunt continues for a welder and an experienced welder.


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Time to learn to weld. Gain a skill and it's more or less a license to print money, or at least fix your own junk around the house. I've used welding in everything from vehicles to furniture.
 
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