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This is a fantastic writeup up, one that I'm going to duplicate on myXj soon, but I have a dumb question that I need some clarification on - what is the purpose of having a shut off valve? Wouldn't you want to have this system flowing constantly?
Since the filter is mounted on the low side of the cooling system, a shutoff valve makes filter changes more convenient, otherwise you might get drenched in coolant. I use non-toxic coolant, but I still don’t want to make a mess and lose good quality coolant. The shutoff valves are not needed if you are mounting the filter at the highest point in the system.
Yeah, it was a mess. I'm sure the coolant filter will do a good job of keeping the system clean. I put a transmission and power steering filter on all my rigs. They are easy to change and fairly inexpensive.
Any problems with the inline trans filter? I don't care for the idea of cutting a steel line and replacing a section (two technically I guess) of it with rubber hose and clamps. Running PSI is around 80-90 and can get up to 200PSI at higher engine rpms. Seems like it would be a weak link for a possible leak. I can't believe two dinky little hose clamps would last for a long time.
The Magnefine is specifically designed to be used as a transmission filter. They have been used for years on many applications without ill-effects. I haven’t had any issues with the magnefine on any of my vehicles.
Any problems with the inline trans filter? I don't care for the idea of cutting a steel line and replacing a section (two technically I guess) of it with rubber hose and clamps. Running PSI is around 80-90 and can get up to 200PSI at higher engine rpms. Seems like it would be a weak link for a possible leak. I can't believe two dinky little hose clamps would last for a long time.
Every auxiliary trans cooler I've seen has similar hose clamps. The pressures you're talking about are inside of the transmission, not in the cooling lines. If the whole system was under pressure, it would just blow out of the filler neck!
Does anyone know which direction the coolant is flowing in the 5/8" heater hose? The filter base has "in" and "out" marked on it. Does it really matter?
Does anyone know which direction the coolant is flowing in the 5/8" heater hose? The filter base has "in" and "out" marked on it. Does it really matter?
Got mine installed yesterday, I didn't have room down where the OP put his because of my shackle bracket, so I made a simple bracket that is attached between the AC.. tank thingie (the technical name is lost in memory) and the coolant reservoir mount. The little valve is from NAPA, I used that instead of all the brass, far less expensive and less "busy". I got the one valve they had in stock ("I've had that on the shelf for years, look at the dust on it") and ordered another. One of them wants to seep a tiny bit of coolant past the packing nut, tightening helped but I may be replacing it.
Pardon me if I missed this in the post, but where exactly is it tied into?
I have a coolant filter on my diesel truck and had to make sure I tied into the correct places to keep a pressure difference for flow to occur.
I have only had my XJ for a few months and will be doing a coolant flush and fill this spring. I'd like to install this at the same time.
Thanks
In my setup, I am pulling from the heater core hose. The coolant gets filtered before entering into the heater core. I have no data to prove if there is a temperature drop, but I would like to think that the coolant by-pass acts as a "cooler" sort of speak. The temperature reduction is probably marginal, but it could be noted as an added benefit. I've been using my setup for 1.5 years with no problems. I'm now using the Donaldson filter. It's peace of mind knowing that the cooling system (with new radiator) is spotless and the life of the heater core might be prolonged.
Ok, just to clarify... The inlet of the heater core tees into the inlet of the filter, the outlet of the filter tees into the outlet of the heater core?
Sorry to ask but there's just too much going on in the pictures for me to tell. Also, could the outlet of the filter be dumped into the reserve bottle and flow through filter still occur? If so, it'd be nice to tap a fitting into the bottle so you could monitor coolant discharge from the filter. Seeing a decrease in flow would mean your filter is starting to clog.
pipewrench, there are several different ways to incorporate the filter into the system. I took the easiest route that I found which was cut the hose that runs to the heater core and reroute the hoses. If you look at the pictures on the front page, you will see that the hose runs straight to the filter's inlet and another hose runs from the filter's outlet back to the heater core. There are no Tee's involved.
If you change the coolant filter annually as recommended by Donaldson, then you wont need to worry about filter clogging.
Ok I gotcha now I think. So is it correct that yours is not a bypass setup? Theoretically if the filter clogged you would lose flow to the heater core? (Even though that's not a concern with regular changes like you said)
Thanks!
Ok I gotcha now I think. So is it correct that yours is not a bypass setup? Theoretically if the filter clogged you would lose flow to the heater core? (Even though that's not a concern with regular changes like you said)
Thanks!
The reason why I call this a by-pass system, is because the heater core draws it's hot water supply from the water-pump by-pass and then returns the water to a lower pressure area. It's a by-pass in terms of a bypass system in which a clogged filter would not starve the engine of coolant. A clogged filter would mean that you would lose heating potential during the winter months.
