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241OR Rock-Trac/Teraflex 2-Low/Novak Cable Shifter Install

I know you can go to jeep to get your pcm reflashed if you have a tj with a 241OR in order to fix the speedo. I wonder if you can do the same with the newer XJ's?

see the problem isnt the speedo being off. the problem is there is no connection for me to even get a speedo reading at all... without redoing the tailshaft
 
You got it.

040600_104500.jpg


this has the stock output on it still. would have to be replaced with the 1310s (i think)


I have been down this exact road with the XJ. I had a normal 241 out of a JK, non rubicon/standard 2.72 reduction (still have it in the shop). Its exactly like your picture. There is no way to get a speedo signal from this case. I called PLENTY of folks that would know how (including JB), and they all told me I was wasting my time unless I wanted to do a lot of guess work.

It WILL bolt into the XJ once you swap to 1310's, and work just fine. In fact, its like a BEEFY NP231. The case is twice as thick as the 231, and everything inside of it is stronger... you just cant hook up a speedo to it. The JK's have speedo pickup in the front wheel/axle area, so there is no need for the VSS in the Tcase.

Since not having a speedo hooked up, it was throwing a VSS code, and that wouldn't allow me to pass inspection. I had to pull the JK Tcase out, and put in a 241OR (with the 4:1 reduction, out of a TJ rubicon), and my stock speedo hooked right up, code went away, and the inspection people were happy.

~ James
 
I have been down this exact road with the XJ. I had a normal 241 out of a JK, non rubicon/standard 2.72 reduction (still have it in the shop). Its exactly like your picture. There is no way to get a speedo signal from this case. I called PLENTY of folks that would know how (including JB), and they all told me I was wasting my time unless I wanted to do a lot of guess work.

It WILL bolt into the XJ once you swap to 1310's, and work just fine. In fact, its like a BEEFY NP231. The case is twice as thick as the 231, and everything inside of it is stronger... you just cant hook up a speedo to it. The JK's have speedo pickup in the front wheel/axle area, so there is no need for the VSS in the Tcase.

Since not having a speedo hooked up, it was throwing a VSS code, and that wouldn't allow me to pass inspection. I had to pull the JK Tcase out, and put in a 241OR (with the 4:1 reduction, out of a TJ rubicon), and my stock speedo hooked right up, code went away, and the inspection people were happy.

~ James

Yeah im bummed because the thing is so much burlier then the 231 (and i hate to lose the 4:1 i have now)... but without extensive work ($$$) i cant make it work :tears:
 
Yeah im bummed because the thing is so much burlier then the 231 (and i hate to lose the 4:1 i have now)... but without extensive work ($$$) i cant make it work :tears:

Hey Pyro, can you do me a favor and take a picture of the tag on your case? It should look something like this:

np242_tag_view.JPG

Try to get close enough so the lettering is legible.

Thanks,

Scott
 
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see the problem isnt the speedo being off. the problem is there is no connection for me to even get a speedo reading at all... without redoing the tailshaft

i was talking in general, trying to see if someone has experience with it.
 
Ok with all the talk of speed sensors, does anyone have an answer on how to connect the 3 wire VSS connector on the tcase to the 2 wire connector on a 91 4.0/AW4?

Craig

Not quite sure on this. Would you happen to have a FSM? If you could figure out what each of those two wires are, I imagine you could connect it somehow. What color are the two wires?

IMG_9918.jpg


what will you look at on the tag?

I mainly wanted it to for my database, and to make sure it was 4:1. Keep us updated on what you decide to do with your case. I'd like to know. :thumbup:

Scott
 
Has anyone held a 241 SYE tail housing up the the JK 241 tail housing to see if the bolts line up to see if that route might work. Also JB Conversions has NEW JK 241 4:1 RocTracs on sale for $1299!
 
Has anyone held a 241 SYE tail housing up the the JK 241 tail housing to see if the bolts line up to see if that route might work. Also JB Conversions has NEW JK 241 4:1 RocTracs on sale for $1299!

SOB!!!! :passgas: I must have a knack for picking up a good deal, and then finding a better one literally days after.
 
I swapped the 241OR in my XJ a couple weeks ago with Seiler's help. My speedo was reading about 15% fast like Seiler's. So, I ordered the dakota digital speed calibration box this week since it is the cheapest option, and installed it yesterday. Someone linked the SGI-5 dakota digital unit earlier in this thread, but here it is again.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....tegory_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd126.htm

They're in SD, so it only took 2 days to get mine since I'm in CO. I did talk to one of their techs to make sure it would work, and he told me there shouldn't be any problems. So away we go. Installation is straight forward. Much like the Superlift TruSpeed.

- Splice into the speed sensor signal.
- From the tc to the interface input (didn't need to connect the speed
sensor gnd).
- From the interface output #1 to the ECU.
- Connect to a good ground.
- Find a switched 12V source in your fuse panel. I used #17 per the Superlift instructions using a single auxilary fuse holder from autozone.

My dipswitch settings are:

DS#1 - ON
DS#2 - OFF
DS#3 - ON
DS#4 - OFF

I calibrated mine while driving using a gps, so I didn't do the calculations (even though they are easy). A quick drive down the road, hitting the down buttons a few times, and I'm spot on again.
 
I don't have a FSM. The wires are black and white.

4518227677_3f9e7036dc.jpg


Craig

Put a meter on the 2-wire connector to find out what wire is what. You know for sure at least one of them is the signal. I'd be willing to guess the other is power. The black wire on the 241 is the speed sensor ground, so you should splice in a ground wire to connect to the chassis somewhere.
 
I swapped the 241OR in my XJ a couple weeks ago with Seiler's help. My speedo was reading about 15% fast like Seiler's. So, I ordered the dakota digital speed calibration box this week since it is the cheapest option, and installed it yesterday. Someone linked the SGI-5 dakota digital unit earlier in this thread, but here it is again.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....tegory_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd126.htm

They're in SD, so it only took 2 days to get mine since I'm in CO. I did talk to one of their techs to make sure it would work, and he told me there shouldn't be any problems. So away we go. Installation is straight forward. Much like the Superlift TruSpeed.

- Splice into the speed sensor signal.
- From the tc to the interface input (didn't need to connect the speed
sensor gnd).
- From the interface output #1 to the ECU.
- Connect to a good ground.
- Find a switched 12V source in your fuse panel. I used #17 per the Superlift instructions using a single auxilary fuse holder from autozone.

My dipswitch settings are:

DS#1 - ON
DS#2 - OFF
DS#3 - ON
DS#4 - OFF

I calibrated mine while driving using a gps, so I didn't do the calculations (even though they are easy). A quick drive down the road, hitting the down buttons a few times, and I'm spot on again.

Good to hear Cam. I'm glad it all turned out OK. :thumbup:

Scott
 
Put a meter on the 2-wire connector to find out what wire is what. You know for sure at least one of them is the signal. I'd be willing to guess the other is power. The black wire on the 241 is the speed sensor ground, so you should splice in a ground wire to connect to the chassis somewhere.


Thanks for the info. I'll have to give it a try this week and get back to you.

Craig
 
I wanted to say thanks to all of you for all of the great information on this thread. I am in the process of figuring out what I want to do with my truck and this thread helped a great deal.

I was going to upgrade my current transfer case but feel the extra money is worth it to get the 4:1 ratio.

Seiler (as well as everyone else) thanks for the thread and all of the info!
 
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