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Pre-Production Sneak Peak at Boostwerks Comp Mount

Did you try it like this? ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzTIV7Hu1jc

In other words, just rotating the very end housing.

Yes, I tried that first. Unfortunately the video doesn't show a close up of the End Housing matched to the Ring Gear. One of ANAKs pictures does even with the broken seal one can see the gap. It's subtle but there.
CMWU17OPT.jpg


The End housing has the same raised teeth that match lock into the Ring Gear, every other tooth.

I'm trying to think through why the winch would be engineered to lock the Ring Gear to the End Housing and Drum Support without depending on the screws for rotational torque. Sure the gap has to be filled to keep grease in and water out but is there really that much torque on it.

I suppose one could re-drill the Ring Gear or drill and tap the Drum Support. Warn probably wouldn't warranty if it ever broke.
 
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Now that I have the new selector piece from Bryson (absolutely beautiful machining btw) that winch is back up on my priority list.

I will clean everything up inside and see what there is to see with the aligning of all the important bits inside.

That gap you see in that picture is not entirely a conclusion. Knowing that I was waiting on new gaskets I did not bother to do anything about the old ones. In some places the gasket stuck to one side, in others it stuck to the other side. What you see is the thickness of two layers of gasket in a place where there is no gasket at all. At the time I was more concerned with macro level fitment issues.
 
Now that I have the new selector piece from Bryson (absolutely beautiful machining btw) that winch is back up on my priority list.

I will clean everything up inside and see what there is to see with the aligning of all the important bits inside.

That gap you see in that picture is not entirely a conclusion. Knowing that I was waiting on new gaskets I did not bother to do anything about the old ones. In some places the gasket stuck to one side, in others it stuck to the other side. What you see is the thickness of two layers of gasket in a place where there is no gasket at all. At the time I was more concerned with macro level fitment issues.



I’ll be ordering the selector adapter too. Regardless of the orientation, it looks useful.

Will be waiting for your assessment on the fit. We might be looking at a serial number change in the parts machining but Warn was aware of what I’m talking about only working every other hole.

When I get home from work tonight, I’ll tear mine apart and get pictures. Might be easier to see the issue in real time.


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VTnbYiY.jpg


This Picture is the End Cap With the raised teeth. Notice the teeth across from the mounting holes. Red=single tooth Green double tooth.

eB0reBg.jpg


This pattern Repeats every other hole or every 72 degrees. The Drum Support has the same raised teeth that match the Ring Gear below:

TPJZhoF.jpg


If rotated 180 degrees where the screws align through End Cap, Ring Gear, and Drum Support the teeth will not mesh interlocking and it will create a gap.

3GB0quz.jpg
 
Ah.

Now I see.

Nicely illustrated.

I will take a good look at what is going on with mine.

Thank you.
 
Well that blows. :doh:



Why they wouldn't just make the tooth count correspond with the hole pattern seems like dumb move.



I thought the same thing. It might be the number of notches carry a load like splines in a shaft. It would take a lot of force to shear that many notches all at once even in the castings. The math probably dictated the number of bolts versus strength. Less or more than 10 screws equal too weak. Just didn’t fit to rotate in 90 degree increments. :(


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Got the winch mounted today to see where the free spool lever will point toward the bumper. Will mount it at the 216 degree angle. This means I will need to punch a new hole in the Comp Mount and through the top of my bumper. Will also need to modify my bumper for the fair lead opening. Now that the winch is in place I can measure for new cable lengths.

Also Got the pillow block mounted. Really tightened up the steering. I can feel that it is more responsive. Had to loosen the steering box and pry on on it a little to get the pillow block on.

Before mounting the pillow block, I took a short video to see how much the steering box was flexing on the frame. Enjoy the video. https://vimeo.com/247753308
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Nice job on the video. The reference grid is a good idea.

Now you need to shoot the same thing, but with the support bearing in place.

As to the selector placement, are you running the stock bumper? I am interested in seeing your progress on this. I would like to be working on mine, but I think my rear main oil seal is going to take priority.
 
Nice job on the video. The reference grid is a good idea.

Now you need to shoot the same thing, but with the support bearing in place.

As to the selector placement, are you running the stock bumper? I am interested in seeing your progress on this. I would like to be working on mine, but I think my rear main oil seal is going to take priority.

Thanks!

Was planning on an after video it but it got dark on me. Dang Winter Solstice. Then I thought it might be boring watching a shaft turn inside a bearing. You are right though, I should shoot the video.

I built the DIY DirtBound Mojave about a year ago. Originally wanted to do a removable winch plate so it has the the receiver. Then after a getting a hernia and surgery, decided to do hidden winch. Just ordered the free-spool adapter. Once I get it and the time I can continue. It will be tricky for me to bust through two perpendicular layer of 3/16" steel at an angle. but I'm up to the challenge. Will most likely use a wobble extension to account for slight misalignment. I also have to notch the bottom of the bumper to allow cable access. That poses another challenge as the receiver bracing will have to be cut away. Thinking about making a large rectangular notch that will hinge lock up when I need the winch. Down and everything is concealed. One thing is certain, I want the comp mount more than the bumper so it may come down to making a new bumper.

For anyone still reading, here is my transmission jack. Worker perfect for me.

H5Jd2Bu.jpg
 
Necessity is the mother of invention. Looks like a solution to me.


For the hole at an angle, my technique is to drill a 1/4" pilot hole at an angle and then use a hole saw with a smooth pilot instead of a drill bit. A drill bit will want to eat its way into the angled pilot hole, but a smooth pilot won't do that. A piece of 1/4" round stock will probably work for the smooth pilot. I have a section of a long 1/4" drill bit which was dull and I cut the fluted end off it.
 
Necessity is the mother of invention. Looks like a solution to me.


For the hole at an angle, my technique is to drill a 1/4" pilot hole at an angle and then use a hole saw with a smooth pilot instead of a drill bit. A drill bit will want to eat its way into the angled pilot hole, but a smooth pilot won't do that. A piece of 1/4" round stock will probably work for the smooth pilot. I have a section of a long 1/4" drill bit which was dull and I cut the fluted end off it.

Me likes your technique. Thank you! I honestly never thought of doing that way.
 
Are you guys putting stock bumpers over top of this?


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Now that the holidays are behind me, I've had a chance to do a bit more work on it. I decided to maintain Warns original designed strength by rotating the free spool lever every other hole. Works out that 180* is not a strength option I'm willing to risk. Sadly that means cutting the beautiful hammer finished powder coated mount.

Free Spool adapter is nothing short of amazing...

aF4W48F.jpg


The angle I chose...54 degrees, out the top of the bumper.

QwpxkQb.jpg


Located hole center using a straight edge and measured down half the diameter of the adapter. (D=30mm, R=15mm). Center punched and pilot drilled all the way through with a very small drill bit, same angle as the adapter. That is some tough steel. Hot rolled?

lpuOMTI.jpg


Followed the pilot hole with a 1/4" drill checking the angle. Wasn't easy getting it started but it finally went through. Then used a 3/4" hole saw to to bust through. Thanks Anak for the 1/4" round stock guide tip. Worked great. As you can see, alignment came out near perfect. But I tagged that adapter with the hole saw. :doh: Hope my hole saw is okay!!!

nO4v3Nv.jpg


Made new power cables to extend the control box. Used 8 ton hydraulic hex crimper on tin coated copper lugs, and 2awg welding wire. Sealed in with adhesive shrink tube. Also labeled and clear adhesive shrink. Should last awhile. Made them 57" long. Control box will be mounted where the radiator overflow is now. Cables are slightly too long. Better too long than too short. Anyway, covered them in anti abrasion. Need just a little more in the second pic. Secured with a couple of straps.

d1j8n5c.jpg

e2TNuKB.jpg


Bottom of blue tape is the top surface of my bumper. Looks like the the opening will clear perfectly without getting into the grill or be too far forward. I have the DirtBound Mohave DIY. Originally built it with the receiver hitch. Cut the receiver out and notched for the fair lead opening. Welded in the slug I originally cut out for the receiver hitch. I don't like it. My front bumper now looks like crap. It warped making it difficult to get back on and now has a inward bow. Yuck! I'm going to attempt to salvage the original looks which will hide the winch opening. No pictures of the bumper, it got dark. Really!

aUYciWn.jpg
 
I am happy to hear that tip worked out for you.

Bummer about the bumper.

Thank you for the detailed pics. That gives me something to mull over.

I had hoped to make progress on my own install, but my rear main oil seal demanded attention instead. And RMS turned into front seal, timing cover and harmonic balancer, and that then turned into new timing chain and guide...The Bride has concluded that scope creep is my superpower.
 
Hey Anak, sounds like you own a Jeep!!! Just Empty Every Pocket!!! HaHa

I'll just cut the bumper in half, align it the way I want and burn it back together. I also want to beef up the shackle mounts and round the edges where I notched for the fair lead. Going to start with the steel cable but switch to the synthetic after some time. I don't want to leave any edges for the rope to rub on in a side pull. Also will have a chance to fill the bumper mount slots to remove play if I have to tug on the bumper. If then it still looks like crap, I'll start over with a new bumper but I still like the Mojave look.

Problem is I have to work in the driveway in the cold and rain. Garage has too many motorcycles and toys, I mean tools. They get the dry home.
 
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