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Double Sanden compressors!

Nice work! Same concept I used to run my York 210 compressor. I basically built a modified version of the Kilby Wrangler 4.0L bracket that just placed the York lower in the engine bay to clear the hood. Used to run ARB's front and rear.

York mounted beside stock A/C compressor and run on single serpentine belt.

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Manifold system with pressure gauge for ARB's. One of these days I will clean this up.
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Battery relocated to driverside and cold air intake installed.
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Kilby 1.75g air tank mounted in cargo area.
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I kinda want to bring this back to light and ask a question.

Why grease? Why not block off the oiler hole like it is and then run a regular motor oil in it? It wouldn't need much. I just think the grease isn't going to reach critical areas of wear whereas an oil will whip all over the place being that it is a thrash plate motor. It'll lubricate just as if it was a running AC system. Seeing as how the modification came from the minitruck realm I think I'll try oil. If it fails I'm not out very much. The JY is littered with them now.
 
The grease will liquify once it warms up. Or so the thought goes.
 
I would use a good compressor oil.
The sanden is designed to be splash oiled and most failures using grease are due to the front bearing running dry too long (the internal design has scoops and channels to aid in migrating oil into the bearing. Depending on the grease, it isn't going to liquify at all.
Then, when you replace the plug run a pipe fitting and breather on a long hose (similar to an axle breather). The Sanden service manual has the factory spec fill capacities as well. Maybe go a bit over that as it won't be as pressurized as it would in a functioning A/C system.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, I would probably use oil too, the bracket is an ingenious design though.

The factory setup is lubed by the oil mixed into the refrigerant charge, which is miscible (soluble in) it. That is why choosing the right refrigerant system oil is important, R12, R134a, R152a, etc refrigerants all use different oils from a few subsets, typically ester oil, PAG oil, etc.
 
What i've gathered is that it's around 2.5 oz. The breather sounds like a good idea also since the mechanical side is sealed off from the suction side by way of the plug.
 
I would use a good compressor oil.
The sanden is designed to be splash oiled and most failures using grease are due to the front bearing running dry too long (the internal design has scoops and channels to aid in migrating oil into the bearing. )

Good to know! I'll be giving this a long look when it comes time to start my build.
 
Is there a long term status update? I'm about to start building the oba on my pickup.
 
I plan on doing the oiler. I'm not very confident in the grease mod. I'm thinking I'll use straight 30w.
 
Picked up adjustable oil foggier from HF and it seems to work really well in my 97 pump. Key things about the setup is dont use 30wt its to thick. tool oil or even atf seems to flow very well. The big one is keeping the intake size to 1/4 and no bigger. The intake has very little suction and you need to keep the air velocity up so it will carry the oil. To do this you need to keep the ID smaller but not so small it will starve the pump. You dont need much to keep the pump happy. but DO run a air take 2.5gal or better to give the pump a little bit of down time.
 
Thanks! all good things to know. I was planning to get a few hot dog compressors from h/f to cannibalize for tanks, valves, and such.

I've got a few nooks and crannies under the bed scoped out.
 
Just ordered a pair of stainless 3 gal. tanks from chassis tech.:laugh3: Yay!

I was planning to use a 4 pass trans cooler between the compressor and check valve, any suggestions on how to connect the aluminum discharge pipe to it. As i understand, this connection will get hot enough to melt rubber.
 
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