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Tube bending tips/tricks??

AzRick

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix
I just picked up a new NE5 tubing bender (the upgraded version of the Model 3 bender), and an 1.5", 5.5 CLR die, from MTech supply in Mesa. WooHoo :clap:

I plan on building a 6 or 8-point internal cage for my new 88 XJ project. I am confident in my fabrication skills, as I've built my own steering, suspension and pretty much everything else on the 2 XJ's I've owned, as well as all the welding on FlexyJoes rockkrawler coilover kit, and numerous little jobs for friends.

The problem is I've never touched, or even seen a bender in action before.

I'm pretty sure I know what I want the end result to look like (placement of spreaders, etc...), and I'm pretty sure I know what I need to do to build a safe roll cage (lots of trianglation, mounting points, etc...).

What I'm looking for is any tips or tricks anyone might have for me about measuring, bending, cutting or notching, or any other info that might be helpful to me, or others who may be looking to do the same thing. With the cost of steel these days, I'd like to keep waste to a minimum.

Thanks,

Rick
 
JD2's directions are also good!Mines set-up if you just want to play!Measure 20 times,cut once,bend once!!!!!!Also get a piece of "Uni-strut" and tube clamp to set your angle finder on.
BTW,if you bought the manual model your gonna need something real stout to anchor it to!
http://www.jd2.com/Help.htm
 
Last edited:
Rick,

Best thing for you to do is bring that bender to Texas and let me keep it for you! :D


hinkley
 
the pirate method is all right at most in my opinion, but a great way to start.

Get a degree ring for the bender...the make shift angle finder they use is just on eye sight, and a degree ring will make it that much easier and accurate.

I did that method for one of my hoops, and just found it to be a pain. I found the whole layout worthless, and stopped going to it.

I just lay it out on paper, and do my calculations there, check my calcs with measurements again and throw it in the bender when everything matches correctly. As long as you measure correctly and know what calculations to make (basic trigonometry most of the times, 3d bends will take a little heavier trig, but still not hard), you will be fine without laying anything out on the ground.

The only thing worthwhile to me is pirate's first step....knowing how much room it takes to complete a bend.

Once you work with it, you will make up your own method quicker than you think.
 
If you ask me....this whole post is just :next: :moon:

And None of the welds have broken on my junk either.....:) I do think that If he were to give the bender to hinkley, he should be able to use all of his tools/ equipment whenever needed......:)
\

Joe
 
I used the Bending Tube 101 instructions for all of my cage and bumber. That system worked very well, and a degree wheel is not needed. A couple of adjustable stands are important, and a level, to keep the tubing level to make the second and third bends. The homemade angle finder that the instructions say to use works very well. You have to get used to the tube springing back a small amount, but the adjustable angle tool does the job.

Have fun. You gonna be ready for Nov? :)
 
Hey Rick, what do you think the chances are of me coming over and watching/helping/whatever. I'd like to learn alittle before I get a bender. I'll bring the beer. I'm the guy that rode with Joe on axle alley when you guys had your old rigs.
James
 
URF uses the Bending 101 method as well.
I think the most important thing to do is think. Think which way you're bending and when you remove a work piece from the bender remember how it was oriented. That way, when you're ready to do somemore bending on it you reinsert it the right way. I messed up a couple tubes by reinserting the work piece backwards in the bender.
 
As far as the notching goes, Mtech Supply has a notcher that notches from
0-60 degrees for $180.00. Harbor Freight has one that notches from 0-60 degrees for $40.00 and then there is the Tube Coping Calculator (free).
If you use the calculator you enter in the sizes and the degree you want and then print the drawing out and wrap it around the tube.
Tube Coping Calculator
 
Like Jes said, go slow and think. Be sure to put arrows on the tube you're bending to show the direction of the bend before you start......VERY IMPORTANT! The chalk drawing on the floor and the hand made angle tool is all you need.

If you're going to get a notcher, spend the money for a good one or don't bother. I broke the Harbor Freight one I got, and couldn't replace the part, so I had to buy another one. A big waste of money for two cheap notchers that I ended up not even using. Careful cuts and some grinding will get the notching done.
 
Mark Hinkley said:
Rick,

Best thing for you to do is bring that bender to Texas and let me keep it for you! :D


hinkley

Wouldn't it be better for you to hop in that fancy house on wheels, drive to Phoenix, and give me the privilege of watching the master fabricator in action??? I could probably get Joe to show you around the town in your spare time here......:)


Thanks for all your tips everybody, I do appreciate it.

I was thinking of getting the harbor freight notcher, but I'm glad I didn't after reading Richard's reply. I guess I'm just gonna do it the old-fashioned way.

If I can get everything together this week, I may get started this weekend. One of my wheelin buddys is an electrician with a ton of conduit bending experience. He's gonna help, along with Joe.....it could be interesting......

I'll definetely be ready for JV in November.

Rick
 
Rick XTRM XJ said:
Wouldn't it be better for you to hop in that fancy house on wheels, drive to Phoenix, and give me the privilege of watching the master fabricator in action??? I could probably get Joe to show you around the town in your spare time here......:)


Thanks for all your tips everybody, I do appreciate it.

I was thinking of getting the harbor freight notcher, but I'm glad I didn't after reading Richard's reply. I guess I'm just gonna do it the old-fashioned way.

If I can get everything together this week, I may get started this weekend. One of my wheelin buddys is an electrician with a ton of conduit bending experience. He's gonna help, along with Joe.....it could be interesting......

I'll definetely be ready for JV in November.

Rick




:party: Rolling house on wheels......nice...funny too....:)


Joe
 
I had good luck with the HF notcher, I did squirt it down with wd-40 everytime though. Its certainly not the best piece around, but I have done probably 50 or so notches with it. I certainly think it beats the old grinder method. It also did well on my 2in 1/4 wall suspension arms. Richard is just too hard on cheap chinese tools. :) Richard your HF must not be to good, I have yet to have an issue with returning stuff at the store. I have even swapped out or returned stuff I have mail ordered at my local store.
 
I have used the HF notcher

DSC_0001.jpg


It did the Job, but it is a POS!

I just picked up the LowBuck Tubing Notcher but I still have not used it, got it used from a guy who builds race car cages for a living, he now just has a larger pice of pipe cut as a guide and then uses a Plasma cutter. I will let you know how the Lowbuck one works for me, it is not that cheep even with that name. For more info on them check out: http://www.lowbucktools.com/
 
I also ruined a HF notcher years ago..... but I did get pleny of miles out of it first.
I have the TN100 notcher which works very well.
tn100.gif


From my experience all nothcers work pretty good provided you know your intersect angle, you're intersecting a straight length of tube and you're able to align the tube correctly in the notcher.
When working with long and heavy tube sections it can be difficult to get the notch aligned correctly. When you're intersecting tubes along a bend, the notcher is mostly worthless.

For both of those cases I just use a right angle grinder with a cut off wheel and then finish it with a grinding wheel and/or a die grinder. It's a slow process but if you go slow and always cut off less then you think you need, you'll end up wasting a lot less tube and a lot less time in the end. You can also make very nice clean joints with it.

To do the grinder technique; align the tube as close as you can to it's final location and mark where you think the cuts should be made around the complete circumference of the tube. With the cut off wheel, slowly work your way all the way around the tube. Start by just scoring the surface and slowly cutting a trench, don't try and make the cut all at once.
Once it's cut, check to fit and mark as needed. Finish it with the grinding wheel. A nice "worn out" and well rounded wheel will work great.
Again, go slow.
Here's an example of a couple of joints made with the grinder technique:
B%20Chevron%20Joint.JPG

B%20Notch%202.JPG


Using just the grinder, you can save your $60 or $200 on a full blown notcher. Buy a $1.25 black Sharpie, a couple or three cut off wheels and a a grinding wheel (if you don't already have it).
You'll be able to make as perfect a joints as you need and your only penalty will be a little more time.

And if you want, I'll be home this Monday and finishing up some work on my cage. I'd be happy to show you how if you like.
PM me for my phone if you like.
 
We built my "truggy" cage and a complete buggy with the HF notcher, it is however a POS, but will work if ya fool with it enough. Best piece of advice is to practice with scrap tubing for awhile. We also drew some of our bends out on the ground with chalk and then bent pieces to match. As for the notcher, we broke down and bought a 45" lathe, it's the shizzle for notching, takes no time now and everyone is perfect.
 
I started out with the Tube Bending 101, still use that from time to time because it's so quick. Once you've got some experience under your belt you'll probably find that you don't even need to bother with layout and just chuck tube in the bender and go at it.

I use the TN100 notcher, sometimes still go back to the chopsaw/grinder though. If you end up getting a notcher, get a drill to handle it with a very low rpm (400 or under).
 
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