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time to rebuild the 88??

xj paddler

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arkansas
I have an 88 xj with the 4.0, it is blowing oil out of just about every seal possible and starting to loose power. The motor still runs extremely well, no knocks or rattles, and still gets really good gas mileage. I am looking for any advise on where to get the best master rebuild kit for it. Also wanting to put a small RV cam, Header and maybe a larger throtle body, when I go back together with it. I do not want to get to radical with it because I will be driveing it all over the U.S

Would I be better of to get a long block or to build my motor back the way I want it??? any advice is will be well taken.

Later Heath
 
i haven't priced any kits, but a mopar re-mfg long block will run you about 2300.00 ...... comes witha 3/36000 mile warantee.. keepin in mind this is for an HO engine... i dont know what else would need to be swapped/modified to go in your 88...
mike
 
I just went through this on an '88 I fixed up and drove from CT to Montana. Your PCV (actually CCV, in Jeep parlance) system is likely plugged. This allows any blow-by to build up pressure in the crankcase, which forces oil out past the seals.

According to Martin, the FSM calls for replacing the CCV tubes at 50,000 mile intervals. I'm sure most Jeeps never get them replaced.

On the one I took to Montana, we replaced the rear main seal after I got there and that helped, but there was still some oil leakage. Replaced the CCV tubes and all's well.

That engine had 165,000 miles on it. My own '88 is at 240,000 and has had the CCV tubes replaced once. Probably time to do it again :)
 
Eagle, where do you get your replacement CCV parts? I recently asked a guy at Pepboys for a replacement hoses for that setup and he gave me windsheild washer line. He said it would work just fine.:rolleyes:
 
Burley said:
Eagle, where do you get your replacement CCV parts? I recently asked a guy at Pepboys for a replacement hoses for that setup and he gave me windsheild washer line. He said it would work just fine.:rolleyes:

Dude...that's all you need!! :D

I guess dealer only parts? Anyone have a $$ estimate for all the parts required?
 
I'm confused. You ask if you should build it back the way it is or get a long block? The 4.0 is a long block I thought. Did you mean a stroker?

If oil is coming back into the air filter compartment in SMALL doses then it is a blowby problem and could be as simple as the ccv replacement mentioned earlier. If it is blowing a more substantial amout in the air filter, mine puked up an entire quart once, then it's most likely a compression issue and a rebuild might be in order.

If the other seals are leaking i.e. rear main etc. those really aren't that difficult or expensive for that matter. Even the oil pan has become a LOT easier with the introduction of the one piece synthetic filter. That is, if your jeep has a lift on it;) :anon:
 
There is aftermarket plumbing available for the the renix engines. Dorman/Motormite sells their version that's made in China. Go for OEM. The CCV tube comes with the rubber boot for the valve cover. Old ones rely on an orifice in the boot but the new ones seem to have the orifice in the plastic tube. Goes for less than $20 at the dealer.
 
there's nothing clogged, but it does have a healthy appetite for oil. i have replaced the CCV tubes and all it did was dehydrate the poor motor and now it requires more oil. i guess i really need to know some good places to get rebuild kits. :-D thanks for all of the advice and tips. still hungry for more info

Heath
 
Paddler --

Have you run a compression test and a leakdown test? Is so, what are the numbers? If not, you should do so before making any decisions.
 
I have not run a compression test yet , nor a leak down test. I was planning on it before I pull the motor. Just rying to plan ahead and get some $$$$$ amounts before I get started. It is blowing about 1.5 quarts per tank of gas and sometimes even more. There is enough oil in the distributer to fill the motor back up:)

Later Heath
 
My pcv system was clogged and the little vac line was broken, so I just took the valve cover off, removed the ccv valve and put the cover back on after I cleaned everything up. Then I went to NAPA and bought a gromet and an off the shelf pcv valve. I installed it and ran 1/8" heater hose for the vacume line, and 1/4" heater hose from the valve to a $2 breather and put the breather under the coolant bottle. It solved my blow-by problem for about a year then it came back, but I just put a catch can under the breather. I am happy with the setup because it keeps my air filter oil free. The whole deal costs less than $20 and if the pcv ever goes bad I can change it in a few minutes with only a screwdriver for the hose clamp. If it still runs strong just keep it maintaned. I would just change all the seals.
 
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