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Front Coilover mounting Hoop, Pics..wanted.

Im looking at ideas for front coilover hoops. I have 16in 2.5in coilovers, with 6in of up travel mounted on top of the dana 60 inner C so it will come through the hood. Id like to not need to move the brake MC.

I found these pictures on XJ db one with the brake MC and one with it removed. Id like to not move the mc.

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This is what I have to work with, no 4.0 so I have more room then most. This red lines show about where the coilover mount would be with weight compressign the springs...

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I could run tube from the a-pillar spreader to the radiator hoop similar to the second picture. that would be alot of work...
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So Ashman, where have you been? I haven't seen any posts from you in quite awhile. Did you get that engine/drivetrain swap finished? Is there a thread showing the finished product somewhere? How's it working? Jeff
 
I think you'd want a hoop that runs lengthwise of the Jeep to minimize the hole in the hood. I'd make a hoop to come off the side of the frame rails pretty much straight up through the hood with the shock mounts attached to the bottom of the hoop. Weld two short pieces of tube straight out from the frame, then weld the bottom of the hoop to the top of those short pieces. You can then tie the hoop into other tubing to the side underneath the hood.

One idea......
 
Goatman said:
I'd make a hoop to come off the side of the frame rails pretty much straight up through the hood with the shock mounts attached to the bottom of the hoop.

The brake MC is in the way, The hoop would have to go almost out to the fender not straight up, The tire would hit the hoop on up travel, and the tire would hit the coil over. It could be an option like shown on the red cherokee to do that hoop then run a second hoop form the top of the frame rail to the top of the hoop near the fender. still the tire coudl hit the hoop but not the coilover.

I agree If there were no clearance issues Thats the simplist solution. Ill have to realy consider moving the Brake booster and MC. If its not to difficult that would make more sence to move then build a jungle gym around it.

I do plan to cut into the fenders as needed to get uptravel. The wheel well dosent fit 42s very well. on my past leaf spring setups Ive only had about 3-4in of vertical up travel
 
Yeah, I saw that when I was working on mine this morning. But, it looks like you could run the hoop just to the outside of the M/C and have the shock mount tabs to the inside of the hoop. You might not be able to lean the shock back as far as you want, if you want to lean it back that far, but there's room in front of the M/C for the shock to go, especially since the lower mount is further forward on the inner C.
 
What if you fit a tight hoop in front of the MC, then tie it into your tubes outside the fenders. Would keep your supports out of the tires way. Then you could weasel in linking supports across the engine. Doesn't sound or look like you'll fit anything simple and easy.
Rensing
 
You are correct, Hadfield. I havent looked at those pics in awhile.... here are a couple others. Feel free to question any of the mounting. I get a lot of inquiry as to why it was built as it was.

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... Ashman, I've admired that XJ (xj... right) of yours for a long time, and have been following the build for some time. Actually, you were just rolling that thing out into your driveway with an air hose chucked up to it to test the airshocks back when I was putting 2" poly spacers on top of my coils to fit my 33's. :D
 
ArcticXJ said:
You are correct, Hadfield. I havent looked at those pics in awhile.... here are a couple others. Feel free to question any of the mounting. I get a lot of inquiry as to why it was built as it was.

... Ashman, I've admired that XJ (xj... right) of yours for a long time, and have been following the build for some time. Actually, you were just rolling that thing out into your driveway with an air hose chucked up to it to test the airshocks back when I was putting 2" poly spacers on top of my coils to fit my 33's. :D
Any thing you would do different?

I just got my wireless at home installed. Its haulin ASS. Its feals faster then my 100MB connecton at work, just less traffic... Im stoked. more web wheelin :paperwork
 
Suspension wise, I wouldnt do anything different, except locate the axle a bit further forward. I'm happy with the way its setup, outside of that.

If I could do it ALL OVER again, I never would have had to use the coilovers because I would have built a housing from the aftermarket using correct length tubes to allow my coils to sit where they sat on the d30. Even with the '78-'79 hp60, I wouldve spent a grand or more, and ended up keeping only the hubs, knuckles, and spindles. I'd be better off just spending the money for a Pro Rock housing or one from RockCrusher, Crane, etc.

Oh, and as far as the rates on your rig, they'll need to be fairly stiff. I run a 250 tender over 300 main spring, and its just right. I started off with a 250/400 combo and it was plenty stiff. Too much so. I'd assume your front end with all the tubing and that SBC would benefit from at least 250/400. I still have the 400lb coils sitting in a box in the Jeep by the way, if you'd like to give them a try. Might save you a couple bucks in the long run.
 
ArcticXJ said:
Suspension wise, I wouldnt do anything different, except locate the axle a bit further forward. I'm happy with the way its setup, outside of that.

If I could do it ALL OVER again, I never would have had to use the coilovers because I would have built a housing from the aftermarket using correct length tubes to allow my coils to sit where they sat on the d30. Even with the '78-'79 hp60, I wouldve spent a grand or more, and ended up keeping only the hubs, knuckles, and spindles. I'd be better off just spending the money for a Pro Rock housing or one from RockCrusher, Crane, etc.

Oh, and as far as the rates on your rig, they'll need to be fairly stiff. I run a 250 tender over 300 main spring, and its just right. I started off with a 250/400 combo and it was plenty stiff. Too much so. I'd assume your front end with all the tubing and that SBC would benefit from at least 250/400. I still have the 400lb coils sitting in a box in the Jeep by the way, if you'd like to give them a try. Might save you a couple bucks in the long run.

What length coil overs, what length coils?
Im runnign 16s, I want a 16in over 16in coils.

Today I tack welded all my links in place, no binding on up or down travel. I set my bumpstops but when I articulated it I only get 10in of down travel til my drivers side upper link hits the pinnion, housing, and lower link all at the same time. The passenger side also hits the lower link at about 10in of down travel.

Ill have to shorten the upper links get them alittle wider out, and move the axle ends up about 3/4in and it will be better. I hope that will get me the full 16in of articulation. I might loose my pinnion angle control with the shorter uppers from 36in now to probably 30in. If I have drive shaft bind Ill just center limit strap it. Frustrating to build and re build.
 
Ahhh, sorry. My Fox's are 14's. The reasons you are stating for frustrations in trying to accomodate all 16 inches of those shocks' available travel are exactly why I have the 14 inch models. I knew that my mechanical steering would be maxxed at with 14" shocks, and I'd be running into pinion angle, driveshaft, and other problems.

Just because you *can* get 16" of travel out of them doesnt mean you necessarily need to. Limiting straps are your friend. :)
 
ArcticXJ said:
Ahhh, sorry. My Fox's are 14's. The reasons you are stating for frustrations in trying to accomodate all 16 inches of those shocks' available travel are exactly why I have the 14 inch models. I knew that my mechanical steering would be maxxed at with 14" shocks, and I'd be running into pinion angle, driveshaft, and other problems.

Just because you *can* get 16" of travel out of them doesnt mean you necessarily need to. Limiting straps are your friend. :)

42s and the 350-th400-203-205 didnt fit in the cherokee easily.
 
Yeah, I figured you had already got it done. Looks like they work well.

I'm wondering a couple things looking at the setup tho:

#1 why do they stick up thru the hood?
#2 why do you have so much preload on those coils?
#3 do you get full shock compression to the stop?

I love your rig, hate the bird catcher tho. :D

It's a little tough to keep everything under the factory hood but it is doable. Both of the pics above are 14" coilover and they mount about 6" below the top of the hoop.
 
vintagespeed said:
Yeah, I figured you had already got it done. Looks like they work well.

I'm wondering a couple things looking at the setup tho:

#1 why do they stick up thru the hood?
#2 why do you have so much preload on those coils?
#3 do you get full shock compression to the stop?

I love your rig, hate the bird catcher tho. :D

It's a little tough to keep everything under the factory hood but it is doable. Both of the pics above are 14" coilover and they mount about 6" below the top of the hoop.

Different engine mounted low.
A d60 truss on top of the axle made the axle end coil over mounts high.
Taller 16in 2.5in coil overs.

4.5-5in up travel 11-12.5in down travel.

There is maybe 1lb of preload on the coils, meaning when fully extended they are about relaxed, but still remian in the coil buckets. I bought the coils for the rear but two broke mainleafs on the front forced an emergency front 4link project with the coilover and coils I had in the garage. I decided to keep the soft 150 14in over 200# 16in coils becuase the ride height is ok. I can not crank down on the coler to make it taller, if I did I will get coil on coil and limit my uptravel. As is the shock bottoms out not the coils.

When I get around to putting a set of these on the rear Ill buy some stiffer coils for the front 16in over 16in (200/300 or 250/350) and add a third keeper coil, this will allow me to raise my ride height for sand dunes and lower it for rock crawling.
 
JB (vintagespeed) gets credit for these...

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