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wj steering pitman arm options?

EvanRigged

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oakville, WA
So, I installed a set of goferit flipserts in to my wj knuckles this weekend and flipped my modified wj steering otk...While collecting parts for this mod I ordered a stock TJ pitman arm to help correct the drag link angle. My problem came when the Tj pitman arm does not fit onto my XJ steering box (the splined hole in the TJ arm is to small). It seems like I have read about a lot of people using a TJ or YJ stock pitman arm for this mod so now I'm wondering if anyone else has ran into this problem and will a stock YJ pitman arm work? I need to correct this pretty quickly. The bump steer is pretty bad!:tear:
 
Maybe you received the wrong arm. I have a stock TJ arm on a stock xj steering gear.
 
Weird. I'm using an XJ arm on my TJ, and a ZJ arm on my XJ. They should be all the same, since they essentially use the same steer box.

What diameter is your TJ one versus your XJ one? I have an extra TJ and XJ one here I can compare with.

But really, if you're looking to flatten, I would just use heat and a shop press to flattn the XJ one to where you need it.
 
My XJ arm is on the jeep now so its kinda hard to measure but the "TJ" one measures 1" from inside one master spline to the inside of the one across from it.
The difference between the two was minimal but the new arm wouldnt even start on the splines of the steering box.

I had considered flattening out the stock arm but am not sure what the heating and bending may do to the strength of the arm.

Also can anyone tell me which arm has less drop in it between a stock TJ and stock YJ arm?
 
I just did a tie rod flip with inserts and built a drag link with one ton rod ends this weekend. I had been running with the WJ steering and an aftermarket dropped pitman arm. I also had lost turning radius when I did the swap. What I ended up doing is putting a dropped pitman arm from a mid 90s dodge 1500 same drop but was an inch longer to get my radius back. I did have to ream the taper out a bit more to get the chevy tie rods in it though. When I pulled other arm the splines were actually broken out of it. It had up and down play and would pop when turning. A few of my friends have had problems with their aftermarket dropped pitman arms also. I know from now on I will not run an aftermarket dropped pitman for an XJ or MJ. The dodge one is much heavier and fits way better.
 
I had considered flattening out the stock arm but am not sure what the heating and bending may do to the strength of the arm.
this would be my major worry. I believe it will weaken the arm significantly and you will need a LOT of heat to bend something that thick.
 
I run high steer with a 44 and gave the wj arm a go. Not quite as long as a waggy arm but close. All you have to do is triangle file the clocking points so it fits on am xj box. It seemed a little weaker than the units we normally use but I have had no issues to date!
 
this would be my major worry. I believe it will weaken the arm significantly and you will need a LOT of heat to bend something that thick.

I'm willing to bet this could be done successfully by the laymen, given some information & some precautions.

The key information, I'd think, is this: What if any heat treating does a pitman arm get before it leaves the factory?

I think it's "none".
I'm making several assumptions, there. The largest is in whether the pitman arm is made of cast iron or something with more carbon than mild steel.

Since low carbon metals can't really be tempered, all that is left is to heat the whole thing evenly before bending it (I'd think in a press) & to let it cool slowly.
Right?

But, then, PORC sells the part for $50... so maybe it isn't worth the worry.
 
pitman arms are forged.


why not fix it the right way and change your track bar bracket?
I have wj knuckles with 1 ton OTK steering, and i can go lock to lock with the stock xj (and now ZJ) pitman arm. No need for a longer one unless something is wrong elsewhere.
 
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