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1991 XJ Limited - Project "It's About Time"

Parts!!

From left to right. New bearing hubs, Spicer ball joints, Spicer spindles, u-joints, upper control arm bushings, axle tube seals, and in the back a lube locker for the D30 and an Olivers double cardon shaft.

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Header panel swap. Honestly not quite as clean of a swap as a lot of people say. There are some strange snags but everything is workable. I have some touching up to do but it's done. Also, pardon the missing fog light. The car wash stole it.

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Ripped out the old Bendix 9 system and replaced with a simple booster from a 95. Required the pedal to be swapped as well. Night and day difference.

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Nice build! Subscribed
 
Snazzy.im kicking myself for not going 35s last time I bought tires.



Thanks - yea, I've been gradually increasing in size as the lift got higher, trying to not spend a ton of money until I got what I wanted. We will see what 3.55 gears and 35's feels like...


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Made it to the big leagues today, boys. They aren't 40s, but they'll do :)

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had a coworker run those. i was pretty impressed with how they worked offroad, especially for the price. hugged the rocks really well even around 10-15psi. and didn't seem to have any issues with grip and keeping up with the rest of the group
 
had a coworker run those. i was pretty impressed with how they worked offroad, especially for the price. hugged the rocks really well even around 10-15psi. and didn't seem to have any issues with grip and keeping up with the rest of the group

Tires work well grip wise but the sidewalls aren't so great.
 
Compared to what I have on there now, considering how little I paid for the set, and what my intended use for them will be they will be entirely sufficient. I wish I was experienced and particular enough to care about sidewall, but these will work great for me.

It's going to take some work to get them to fit. I'm going to need about 1.5 more inches all around and some minor trimming. I intend to accomplish this with a spacer up front and shackle relocations in the back.

Part of the reason for the shackle relocation in the rear is pinion angle correction as well as shackle angle correction.

The spacer up front is the cheapest temporary fix. I was considering drop brackets since I'm short arm right now, but for the price of a good set with braces, I'm a third of the way to a 3-link Cavfab setup or at minimum a long arm upgrade.

It's true what they say, you should bite the bullet the first lift you buy and always go 2" higher than you originally wanted to.


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I still have yet to swap in my better Dana 30 front. I'm waiting on some time to do the rear main seal at the same time. I hear that doing the rear main without an axle installed is monumentally easier.

Hopefully the method to this will be:

1) Save Money

2) Save more money.

3) Install shackle relocation brackets to determine how much lift I get out of it then order spacer to level the front. This will also tell me what exhaust conflicts the brackets cause.

4) Replace exhaust manifold, downpipe and muffler (flow master 40). The Cat is brand new already.

5) Pull front axle

5) Do rear main

6) Replace axle with better front one in the garage (already checked runout). Include coil spacer to level with the back.

7) (Hopefully) install Cavfab 3-link....

The closer I get to tax return time the more realistic this gets. The more Christmas gets closer the more I'm shelling out and it becomes less of a reality :)


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On second thought...I think I'm going to keep it right where it's at...

A little fender trimming and I'll be set.

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Trimmed the drivers side for clearance today's. Cut the pinch seam and folded it back, and painted the well with VHT Chassis Black. The trim job I think came out great. Very happy with the clearance. I'm waiting on black door molding to put around the edge and I'll be done with that side.

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I used that door molding...it holds dirt and water and actually caused a lot of rust on my fenders. If I did it again I would just try to paint the edge or something.



Yeah I could see how that is possible. I did paint the edges and will adhere the molding. If it starts to rust, I'll just trim again and try something different.


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I'd seam seal the pinch seam you banged up too so it doesn't hold mud in the creases.



I sprayed primer and paint on the backside before I folded it over to prevent rust. This black paint is only temporary. I think I'm going to bed line it, and then maybe I'll spray some flex and seal on it.

We used that stuff to seal up a homemade raft made of Rubbermaid coolers to take it down the competition channel at the US whitewater center. It seals pretty well :)

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Went for a drive today. Need to get used to the tire whine - never had that before. I can tell the 3.55 gears are struggling to keep up. Combined with my cracked manifold, certainly makes for a gutless jeep :)

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